roll cage weight
- Thread starter Fatsix
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,728
WTS??
4130 moly w/ .083 wall weighs 1.478#/ft.
Mild steel @.134 wall weighs 2.313#/ft
Morrison can tell you how much tubing is in the kit.
4130 moly w/ .083 wall weighs 1.478#/ft.
Mild steel @.134 wall weighs 2.313#/ft
Morrison can tell you how much tubing is in the kit.
upgrade cage?
right now i have a 10 pt art morrison cage ready to install in my malibu. Its 1- 5/8 mild steel. The car is a race only car, and will be lightened as much as possible. Should i upgrade to a moly cage? i think i will be way under weight with the rest of the lightening, should i use the cage as ballast or is the moly that much better ans stronger?
right now i have a 10 pt art morrison cage ready to install in my malibu. Its 1- 5/8 mild steel. The car is a race only car, and will be lightened as much as possible. Should i upgrade to a moly cage? i think i will be way under weight with the rest of the lightening, should i use the cage as ballast or is the moly that much better ans stronger?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,728
Moly or not??
I gave you the wrong wts..
1.625 X .083 is 1.367# and the m/s at .134 is 2.134#.
The advantage of the moly is, it's significantly lighter and that would allow you to move the wt around as ballast if you were under.
The disadvantage is it HAS to be TIG welded.
The M/S can be wire welded, but would not give you the moveable wt ability. Your choice!!
I gave you the wrong wts..
1.625 X .083 is 1.367# and the m/s at .134 is 2.134#.
The advantage of the moly is, it's significantly lighter and that would allow you to move the wt around as ballast if you were under.
The disadvantage is it HAS to be TIG welded.
The M/S can be wire welded, but would not give you the moveable wt ability. Your choice!!
if i were to get the chromoly i could tack it with the mig and have it tig'd. right? Also to have it connected to the frame rails i would have to cut the floor out of the way... do i have to use the hole saw to cut holes in the frame and weld it or just sit it on top and weld it?
turbov6joe
Signal 1 J-12
- Joined
- May 22, 2002
- Messages
- 2,220
My molly 6 point was 43 pounds, no swingouts, and a real trick/clean install that followed the roof line.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,728
Cage install??
Most chassis folks prefer to fit and weld their work themselves. This is done so that the joints are tight and the locations are precise.[Not saying you can't, just a comment
]
As for the holes to the frame. It requires a considerable space to work with a TIG torch, even w/ the short cap on. IF you are going to be doing a frame -off type buildup of the car, then you can leave the body mounts loose, jack the body up and weld the tubes easily w/ them thru a hole saw sized opening.
I just completed the install of my 6 pt in my GN... NOT FUN!! I cut the floor w/ a cut off wheel and the holes are in the area of 3 X 6"
As for the plates, I used 1/8" plates to reinforce the frame where the tubes sit. I bent them to make an inclined piece that covered the top of the rail and extended down to the inner lower lip. I tacked the tubes first, pulled the assy up, 100% welded around the tubes and then welded to reinforcement plates to the frame..
My install is complicated as I have retained my door panels and back seat. [Even tho it's useless!!
]
The rules say it must be welded to the frame. It does not have to have holes drilled so it goes thru, only on top of...
I also primed and painted the tubes after they were final fitted.. Makes it ALOT easier to touch them up vs totally painting them .
HTH,
Most chassis folks prefer to fit and weld their work themselves. This is done so that the joints are tight and the locations are precise.[Not saying you can't, just a comment
]As for the holes to the frame. It requires a considerable space to work with a TIG torch, even w/ the short cap on. IF you are going to be doing a frame -off type buildup of the car, then you can leave the body mounts loose, jack the body up and weld the tubes easily w/ them thru a hole saw sized opening.
I just completed the install of my 6 pt in my GN... NOT FUN!! I cut the floor w/ a cut off wheel and the holes are in the area of 3 X 6"
As for the plates, I used 1/8" plates to reinforce the frame where the tubes sit. I bent them to make an inclined piece that covered the top of the rail and extended down to the inner lower lip. I tacked the tubes first, pulled the assy up, 100% welded around the tubes and then welded to reinforcement plates to the frame..
My install is complicated as I have retained my door panels and back seat. [Even tho it's useless!!
]The rules say it must be welded to the frame. It does not have to have holes drilled so it goes thru, only on top of...
I also primed and painted the tubes after they were final fitted.. Makes it ALOT easier to touch them up vs totally painting them .
HTH,
