Rotor break

[Clark6]

Ok question. I have a great tranny, Love it but I have a question on whether I'm doing something wrong or not.
regular driving I don't break the rotor, even at the track I have not broke a rotor.
But this is my 3rd rotor break, the last one only had a hairline crack but was still functional, I just heard a clicking noise around the converter/pump area.

swapped converters it quieted down but still noticeable. Pulled the transmission and the hairline crack on the pump is what I found.
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The first rotor crack was with an EDGE converter & a completely different pump. (about 300/400 miles on new tranny & pump)(I left the spacers out of the converter/flexplate was the reason & was told to make sure I put them in I did,,, no breaks.
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Bought a new 9/11 converter about 4000/5000 miles later...... installed it; again was told I probably didn't need the spacers

1000 miles later (no track times with it) The second rotor crack was with the new and different converter. (7000 miles roughly on pump & tranny since the first break)
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The third rotor crack different rotor same pump same converter this time with the spacers .( roughly 400 miles later since the second break)
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So my question is am I doing something wrong?????



Could the high transmission pressures be causing this?


The ONE common denominator of all 3 breaks was when I ease into the throttle wide open for like 1/4 or 1/2 mile let off the gas. Once the car coast
coast to a stop no movement (broke rotor). This last time with the hairline crack it didn't break or shatter like the others did, I could still drive
around and even got on it quickly & off to see if I could pin point the clicking/ticking noise & see if it would break the rotor b4 I took it down and apart.


Again I never broke one at the track or cruising only when I've gotten on it & the car shifted in 4th gear. Do you think the 4th gear have something to do with it at WOT & then takes the rotor out on deceleration? That's the only thing I can figure and come up with & IF SO HOW & could someone explain why this would put so much pressure on the rotor at this time.......... SO I'LL KNOW NOT TO DO IT AGAIN. (maybe I need to get on it only in 3rd gear).

 

[Steve V]

What are your line pressures? 7/10/13 vein? Lonnies trans still? May want to give him a call.

I would replace the entire pump and start over if it has happened 3 times. Besure the convertor is all the way in and it not being forced in by the engine/trans mating together.

 

[Clark6]

10 Vane, 2nd time on this pump. Don't know the pressures yet. I made sure it was in with the washers this last time, I think that was part of my problem the first two times. I'm checking the pump when I disassemble I am going with Chris's steel rotor this time. I can ride it for month's beating on it even in 4th the problem just rears sometimes once I start easing up on the boost. 19psi below it seems fine. Making too much power I guess.

 

[Steve V]

Need to check pressures,something is not right.

 

[mikestertwo]

What flexplate are you using? Stock? I see you are using an Eagle crank. Was there a radius on the flexplate flange? Did you have it machined to clear the pilot hole in the flexplate?

 

[Clark6]

JW The Wheel flexplate SFI-- I'm using a Cat crank. Machine builder took care of all that I'm pretty sure he did.
I could go run an take pics if I have to , I do believe it clears the pilot hole I think it was a perfect fit. I've taken it off several times to inspect, looks good to me.



Steve when I get it in this time. I'll check the pressures.


Mind you guys, these breaks are not occurring all close to the same time except the last one; these are all between a 3 yr period up til now.