Rough start and a bad Idle that turns into a stall

[Koshe]

Are the injectors original (and over 20 years old)?

Hi Earl, yes. As far as I know I still have the original 26 year old injectors.

I have also used one bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment which on the bottle it says that its an injector cleaner I don't really think it did anything.

For some reason I'm only getting like 11 miles to the gallon so I thought cleaning the injectors would help... Nope.

 

[Koshe]

Since we are adding dog pics... boom. My little Dobby. My wife dresses him up and takes pictures. I kinda feel bad for him. Lol

 

[getdowngranny]

Since we are adding dog pics... boom. My little Dobby. My wife dresses him up and takes pictures. I kinda feel bad for him. Lol

I know we are getting off topic here but is it a frenchton or a Boston?

Here is my frenchton. Chloe


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[GNRick]

Since we already have a girls with GN thread, we need a dog with GN thread! That is Rudy in my avitar. He was a Chow/golden retriever. Had to put him down a couple years ago. Still miss him.

 

[Koshe]

Lol I love the way Chloe is sitting, very human like. Dobby is a Boston, he does look a lot like a Frenchy thought.

Since we already have a girls with GN thread, we need a dog with GN thread! That is Rudy in my avitar. He was a Chow/golden retriever. Had to put him down a couple years ago. Still miss him.

Rick, sorry to hear about Rudy :-/ I don't even want to think about the day Dobby might be gone.

 

[Koshe]

Now before this thread gets killed by the thread police, lets get back to my poor GN.

Like David said in an earlier post:

I helped him finish up his spring cleaning. Installed a new fuel filter and dropped his transmission pan.
We put a multi meter to his Coil pack. 1 and 4 put out 11 ohms. 2 and 5 put out 0 ohms and 3 and 6 put out 0 ohms. This is with key on car off.

After resetting his ECM his car had a smooth idle and no RPM jump.
Iac was at 16
Tps at .42
CCs moving as they should
AF 5
INT 128
BLMs 128
RPMs holding solid at 750

After driving for a bit, that is when the idle issue returned
There is also a bit of water coming from his exhaust. More than your usual condensation. George is going to drive a bit and monitor his coolant level and check his plugs. Oil looks good.

The Coil Pack seems to definitely be an issue so I'm trying to figure out whether I should go with the ACCEL High Output Coil Pack for $120, I think O'Reillys will give it to me for $99. These units come with a 1 year warranty. But... I've been thinking, why not just go for the $60 unit with a lifetime warranty?

The brands are different at each auto part store for the $60 unit. Autozone sells Duralast, O'Reillys sell BWD, etc. After speaking to the auto parts rep, they basically told me that once the $60 unit dies/goes bad, I can just take it off, walk inside and trade them for another new one for the rest of my life. I feel like this is an amazing deal. Just want more input from you guys before I make a purchase.

 

[1fastcobra]

Ohm it before u buy it. 11-13.

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[earlbrown]

Hi Earl, yes. As far as I know I still have the original 26 year old injectors.

I have also used one bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment which on the bottle it says that its an injector cleaner I don't really think it did anything.

For some reason I'm only getting like 11 miles to the gallon so I thought cleaning the injectors would help... Nope.

I've never seen that fuel cleaner stuff work. It's just not strong enough to do any cleaning.


I wouldn't even bother cleaning them. I'd get a set of 60's and a matching chip and not worry about them for another 20 years.

 

[Koshe]

Ohm it before u buy it. 11-13.

So as long as it outputs the correct amount of Ohms needed then it doesn't mater what brand/price?

 

[Koshe]

I've never seen that fuel cleaner stuff work. It's just not strong enough to do any cleaning.


I wouldn't even bother cleaning them. I'd get a set of 60's and a matching chip and not worry about them for another 20 years.

But wouldn't the jump from 28's to 60's cause me to burn more fuel since my GN is stock all around?

 

[earlbrown]

No, because the matching chip will command the to fire less than half as long compared to the 28s.

The spray pattern will be MUCH better leading to better atomization too.

 

[DavidM]

But wouldn't the jump from 28's to 60's cause me to burn more fuel since my GN is stock all around?

This is why he mentioned the Chip.
Remember when you purchased the TT chip? There was a field input for injectors. Eric takes your combo and burns you a chip. That way the chip is matched for whatever parts you have.


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[Koshe]

No, because the matching chip will command the to fire less than half as long compared to the 28s.

The spray pattern will be MUCH better leading to better atomization too.

This is why he mentioned the Chip.
Remember when you purchased the TT chip? There was a field input for injectors. Eric takes your combo and burns you a chip. That way the chip is matched for whatever parts you have.


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Well, sadly it's pretty clear that I will need to replace/rebuild almost everything in my car. But I'm over budget for the month already. So I need to prioritize and buy as I go. Will buying new fuel injectors help with the idle? Or the water mixture coming out of my exhaust? Am I damaging my engine by driving it in its current condition? I just don't want her to die. T_T

 

[earlbrown]

If you're washing down your cylinders with raw fuel (which I suspect you might be) you are damaging the engine by driving it.

With these cars there's a long list of 'step 1' to get the car up to speed with the necessary replacements. I.E. valve springs, fuel pump, hot wire kit, timing set, intercooler hoses, vacuum lines, check valves, injectors, etc.... Plus the car has to be mechanically sound with even compression, good leak down numbers, good oil pressure, stable sensors and a hot ignition system.


EVERY thing on that list has to be taken care of before the fun starts.

 

[getdowngranny]

Since you are on a steep budget. I just happen to have a set of used 42.5 injectors with 2 turbo tweak alky chips for sale and cheap. I upgraded to 60s and removed them last week. They took me well into 11's and ran fine.


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[whitehot1]

Now before this thread gets killed by the thread police, lets get back to my poor GN.

Like David said in an earlier post:



The Coil Pack seems to definitely be an issue so I'm trying to figure out whether I should go with the ACCEL High Output Coil Pack for $120, I think O'Reillys will give it to me for $99. These units come with a 1 year warranty. But... I've been thinking, why not just go for the $60 unit with a lifetime warranty?

The brands are different at each auto part store for the $60 unit. Autozone sells Duralast, O'Reillys sell BWD, etc. After speaking to the auto parts rep, they basically told me that once the $60 unit dies/goes bad, I can just take it off, walk inside and trade them for another new one for the rest of my life. I feel like this is an amazing deal. Just want more input from you guys before I make a purchase.

Advance auto parts has a better price on the BWD coilpack,or they did the last time i looked on their site. I've been using the BWD brand coil for a few years without any problems. I have used the Accel coil before and never noticed any difference over a stock type coil pack.

 

[Koshe]

If you're washing down your cylinders with raw fuel (which I suspect you might be) you are damaging the engine by driving it.

With these cars there's a long list of 'step 1' to get the car up to speed with the necessary replacements. I.E. valve springs, fuel pump, hot wire kit, timing set, intercooler hoses, vacuum lines, check valves, injectors, etc.... Plus the car has to be mechanically sound with even compression, good leak down numbers, good oil pressure, stable sensors and a hot ignition system.


EVERY thing on that list has to be taken care of before the fun starts.

Washing down cylinders with raw fuel... can you explain a little more. I'm real new to this, sorry. Pretty sure my balls just dropped around 2 months ago when I bought this beauty and started getting my hands dirty for the first time. Lol

Since you are on a steep budget. I just happen to have a set of used 42.5 injectors with 2 turbo tweak alky chips for sale and cheap. I upgraded to 60s and removed them last week. They took me well into 11's and ran fine.

I appreciate the offer Getdown, but for now I want anything I replace on my GN to be New if I can afford it. Just means I'll be driving the GN a lot less.

Advance auto parts has a better price on the BWD coilpack,or they did the last time i looked on their site. I've been using the BWD brand coil for a few years without any problems. I have used the Accel coil before and never noticed any difference over a stock type coil pack.

Thanks Whitehot1, this is real useful. I can at least buy a new coil pack since mine is clearly dead/dying.

 

[earlbrown]

If you're getting 11MPGs and it's not running right it stands to reason you're injecting more fuel than you need. What happens when you have too much fuel and not enough oxygen, there's leftover gasoline in the cylinders. And we all know just how good of a degreaser/cleaner gasoline can be.

In that situation the extra gas can wash the oil off of the cylinder walls causing accelerated wear. The side effect of doing that is that gas makes its way to the oil pan and thins the oil out making it less 'oily' which can cause accelerated wear on bearings and the rest of the engine. On the upside, the PCV system can suck gas fumes out of the crankcase.... the bad part about doing that is it puts the gas fumes in the intake tract where you already have too much gas in the first place!!

An easy test is to see if the dip stick shows it's overfull and/or the oil smells like gas.

 

[1fastcobra]

So as long as it outputs the correct amount of Ohms needed then it doesn't mater what brand/price?

That's correct

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[Koshe]

OK, bought a new coil pack.

I removed the old one to find a tub of blue taffy like glue, which after reading up on it apparently means the ignition module might be going bad soon* different results for different people.

Further reading I saw that the goo is not bad, just not good. A normal ignition module has relatively the same black protective surface the coil pack has. But eventually I guess the black sealant disappears after years of use? Not a hundred %.

The goo makes it really hard to work around. I put the yellow, green, and blue wires as per a diagram DavidM sent me. And... Poof car wont start anymore.

I separated the coil pack from the module again to check if I did something wrong and I notice a lot of the blue goo is really gotten into the the connectors and just made a huge mess of things.

The Coil Pack is now back inside my house. Going to remove the goo, buy a new ignition module and try again in about 24-48 hours.

I was thinking about cleaning the connectors at the end of the wires on the ignition module, maybe remove some of the blue goo, and try again to save me $125. But Its still a toss up since that blue goo is a nightmare.

I did notice however that my old coil pack looked almost brand spanking new. And when I texted Glenn; the previous owner, he asked me why I was replacing the coil pack in the first place. Making me think that the coil pack was recently replaced before the sale. I didn't get much information from him though, he seemed busy since after all it is father's day and all.

BTW Happy Father's Day to all those whoa are and to all those soon to be.