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Rubber/metal bracket on exhaust @ cut out pipe broke

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The Darkside

Heavy Metal Thunder
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
999
My exhaust bracket that connects the exhaust to the frame right by my cutout broke on the rubber part.It looks like it's made of metal & rubber. I went to the local exhaust shop & they didn't have one of those brackets, so they tack welded my cutout pipe to the terry houston down pipe where the slide together to help stabalize it. I don't think that that was a good idea, doesn't that connection need to be able to slide in & out & be able to turn?
Also, where do I get another bracket? Is it something I can get from GM? Is there another option?


The Darkside:cool:
 
No, it wasn't a good idea for them to tack weld the DP and dump together. Tell them to carefully cut the welds.

The reason why it's a slip joint is to minimize the forces on the turbo exhaust housing that result from exhaust system dead weight and movement - recall the OEM set-up uses springs and a donut to minimize these forces.

Last I knew GM still sells the bracket. It's called a catalytic converter hanger, P/N 25525381. If GM doesn't sell it maybe, say, Postons does.

Good luck!
 
I guess I was lucky.I bought a cat-hanger from GM early in the summer.
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess I'm going back to the muffler shop tomorrow & getting that connection made free again.
Is this bracket unique to the Turbo Buicks or can it be found on any 84-87 Buick Regal w/ a 6 cylinder?



The Darkside:cool:
 
Kirban Performance has it as well it is part #6914 no price on the web page so may be youll get it free.jk
 
Following the advice of somebody on this board, I just rebuilt my exhaust hanger. I bought a hanger at Pep Boys for about $5 that includes a long piece of the rubber/fabric that tears on our hangers. Drill out the rivets on the stock piece and reattach the new piece with bolts. Not perfect, but certainly servicable, inexpensive and no time lost waiting on parts in the mail.
 
Guess I screwed my car up.:eek: I am running a flange at the end of the downpipe to the dump pipe for easy changing out of the cat when needed. Have had it this way for years without any problems but I am running the HR motor mounts on the driver's side. Anyone else do this? I would think with just a slip joint it would eventually just seize up tight anyway.
 
I also have a flange on the end of the DP as well with an overlapping slipfit onto the midpipe. My Torque Tech midpipe incorporates the length of where the cat/test pipe would be. I welded a flange to bolt to the DP and also welded a flange down the pipe so I could use the cat hanger in the stock position. In between these flanges, I went ahead and welded on the cat shields so now I have a "fake cat". I wasn't sure where I was moving at the time so I just handled it in that manner. Looks and works good.
 
Those of you with the aftermarket downpipes ...
do you mean to say that those DPs are intended to run with a LOOSE slip joint where the DP joins the test Pipe (or Cat Converter) ??! No band clamp or U-bolt clamp?
 
Originally posted by Ken Cunningham
Following the advice of somebody on this board, I just rebuilt my exhaust hanger. I bought a hanger at Pep Boys for about $5 that includes a long piece of the rubber/fabric that tears on our hangers. Drill out the rivets on the stock piece and reattach the new piece with bolts. Not perfect, but certainly servicable, inexpensive and no time lost waiting on parts in the mail.

That sounds like a good idea, everyone agree?



The Darkside:cool:
 
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