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Safe # of boost?

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1 psi is safe. Anything higher.. you need to look at data to determine how your tuneup is. Meaning no amount of boost is safe.

If you want to keep your engine together for a very long time.. keep your boost goals mild.

There is a saying.. candle that burns sooo bright.. does not burn long :D

And this has nothing to do with alcohol, racegas, chips, computers, etc... I say the highest success records have been those that keep boost levels in the 21-23 PSI range AND watching for knock.

HTH
 
Yea, I agree. I should have added that assuming you're monitoring etc...what are most guys out there running as a general room of thumb.

Example, most guys can run 17-18lbs or a normal 93 chip and 93 octane. Just looking for a general consensus there. So I'm in the ball park then to run 23. :)
 
I take into account the pressure drop with my IC at what 4 #s (dutt IC) my gauge is reading 26#s so i figure im really at 22#s
pulls like a mule
 
If your boost guage is connected to the intake.. then your running what you see. If your boost guage is connected directly to the turbo.. then you have a guess as to what pressure your truly running.

You can hurt a motor at 15 PSI boost and a street chip.. example pull the hose of your fuel pressure regulator and run 15 PSI boost :D So safe boost is only as safe as the attention being paid. That is why knock monitoring is so critical in keeping bad things from happening.
 
I take into account the pressure drop with my IC at what 4 #s (dutt IC) my gauge is reading 26#s so i figure im really at 22#s
pulls like a mule

The typical 30 lb boost gauge installation is to put a T in the boost line just in front of the tranny dipstick tube, on the pass side of engine. You can also put in the T over by the MAP sensor but then you have a much longer run to your gauge. Both run directly to the vacuum block so you're seeing actual boost in the intake.

The standard answer to "how much boost can I run safely" is "as much as you can with no knock" I will be installing Razor's kit in the next week, I have casper's knock gauge, I also use turbolink on my laptop when tuning new gear. I am hoping to get ~25 lbs of boost, but that number may move depending on how it goes, I plan to SLOWLY increase the boost from the 17 lbs it's at now, 1 psi at a time, until I either get to 25 or see any knock. If it's not knocking @ 25, I may play with moving it up to see how it runs/knocks, or I may just call it a day at stay @ 25 in attempt not to put a 4th engine in it (previously 3 died of natural causes, not my fault ;))
 
Suggestion.. I dont like anything tied into the MAP sensor line. If you have a boost guage, tie it off the front port that goes to the charcoal cannister behind the alternator.

The reason is if the line to the boost guage blows off.. pops off.. has a leak.. etc etc etc.. you will drop pressure to the 3 bar MAP. If you drop pressure to the 3 bar.. the alky system will put out less alcohol which can lead to bigger problems.

What I get into the habit of doing is run a vacuum hose from the nipple on the passenger rear straight to the 3 bar MAP. And then put two zip ties one oon the MAP and one on the tube. This makes it bullet proof.. pretty much.

I know its typical to get the boost guage connection of that port.. but if you look at the bigger picture.. you'll understand why I post this.

AND.. run a new hose from the metal tube to the fuel pressure regulator.. same deal.. zip ties.. you cannot afford to blow that hose off.

Hope this helps.

Julio
 
If your boost guage is connected to the intake.. then your running what you see. If your boost guage is connected directly to the turbo.. then you have a guess as to what pressure your truly running.

You can hurt a motor at 15 PSI boost and a street chip.. example pull the hose of your fuel pressure regulator and run 15 PSI boost :D So safe boost is only as safe as the attention being paid. That is why knock monitoring is so critical in keeping bad things from happening.

OOPS!..lol well no wonder it pulls like a mule... on a serious note. I had two gauge set up as noted to see exactly what and how much i was losing from my ic and it came out to about 4#s but i run from tee from bar...i'll move it over to other line as suggested, thanks Julio
 
Suggestion.. I dont like anything tied into the MAP sensor line. If you have a boost guage, tie it off the front port that goes to the charcoal cannister behind the alternator.

The reason is if the line to the boost guage blows off.. pops off.. has a leak.. etc etc etc.. you will drop pressure to the 3 bar MAP. If you drop pressure to the 3 bar.. the alky system will put out less alcohol which can lead to bigger problems.

What I get into the habit of doing is run a vacuum hose from the nipple on the passenger rear straight to the 3 bar MAP. And then put two zip ties one oon the MAP and one on the tube. This makes it bullet proof.. pretty much.

I know its typical to get the boost guage connection of that port.. but if you look at the bigger picture.. you'll understand why I post this.

AND.. run a new hose from the metal tube to the fuel pressure regulator.. same deal.. zip ties.. you cannot afford to blow that hose off.

Hope this helps.

Julio

Makes good sense, thanks for the tip.
 
Safe boost = oxymoron

What's a safe amount of boost and a turbotweak chip, 23-5 ??

In my daily driver 3800 series II v6 I don't even like to go to WOT in it. Always afraid the puny lil six banger is going to croak. All the times I went to WOT in the GN/T turbo 6 at 25 + psi and it did not blow up I considered myself lucky. I compare boost to medications. Follow the instructions. Don't OD. Then you will stand a chance. :wink:
 
What's a safe amount of boost and a turbotweak chip, 23-5 ??



Hey Joe, I don't know about safe, :eek: but I run 25# with Razor's kit and Eric's chip with 93 octane. No problems yet. :biggrin:
 
Suggestion.. I dont like anything tied into the MAP sensor line. If you have a boost guage, tie it off the front port that goes to the charcoal cannister behind the alternator.

The reason is if the line to the boost guage blows off.. pops off.. has a leak.. etc etc etc.. you will drop pressure to the 3 bar MAP. If you drop pressure to the 3 bar.. the alky system will put out less alcohol which can lead to bigger problems.

What I get into the habit of doing is run a vacuum hose from the nipple on the passenger rear straight to the 3 bar MAP. And then put two zip ties one oon the MAP and one on the tube. This makes it bullet proof.. pretty much.

I know its typical to get the boost guage connection of that port.. but if you look at the bigger picture.. you'll understand why I post this.

AND.. run a new hose from the metal tube to the fuel pressure regulator.. same deal.. zip ties.. you cannot afford to blow that hose off.

Hope this helps.

Julio

Wow Julio thanks! A big life saver.

My boost gauge is currently tapped into the line that runs off the intake to the MAP sensor. It was this way when I purchased the car.

Not anymore though. This will be corrected before the car leaves the garage again. God forbid the last thing I'd want happen is that cheap plastic tee fitting to break/crack especially under boost.
 
28# here with 93 octane and chip no knock don't be a sissy turn it up and floor it if it blows build it stronger and faster
 
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