You can type here any text you want

Scanmaster G help needed

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

dhy808

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
48
New to the Grand National scene. I recently purchased a 5.7 chip and Scanmaster G from TT. Car seems to be running strong and great with the new chip. I searched around for information on the Scanmaster G but what I have found is above my head. I'm looking for more "Scanmaster for Dummies". The following are the readings that I have been getting on my Scanmaster G. I'm wondering if I'm OK or if there are indications of any problems. I running 15psi of boost. Can any of this tell me if I'm having knock problems?

Initial start up shows me a Mv reading on the scanmaster after running the car and WOT runs it shows me 208Mv and 35 mph when I hit the recall button

MAF 6
LV8 40
Volts 13.3
Int 131
Blm 123
Speed
Coolant 193.5
Air temp 109 (yes its really hot out)
RPM 825
Tps 38
Iac 54
02CC 140

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
Looks like it's time for an IAC reset, and adjustment on the TPS, IAC is high at idle, and TPS is too low, and your MV is way too low, should be in the high 700's to low 800's, and when you hit the recall button, it will also show you knock retard and how many degrees of timing, read the instructions again, and search IAC reset and TPS adjustment to get those in line. If you haven't done so yet, replace your O2 sensor with a Denso O2 sensor, its cheap and will far outlast anything available for the price.
 
Ok, pretty much all Greek to me, like I said I need "Scanmaster for Dummies" LOL! I can read up on the TPS and IAC and can probably figure out the resets. Will resetting the IAC and TPS fix my low MV?

How do I access the knock retard readings? There is no KR option showing on my meter and the only thing that the recall button shows is the MV 208 35mph display,

What are my errant TPS, IAC and MV affecting?

Thanks for the replies!
 
If you hold the recall button down and then push the other button, should display knock retard, your low MV is probably your 02 sensor on its way out, TPS should be .40-.46 at idle, IAC also controls idle. Your O2 sensor may "lean" your engine out, and POP there goes a head gasket, your TPS may not be getting you into "power enrichment" mode being low, and IAC should be 10-40 at idle I believe, personally I wouldn't be blasting WOT runs until you get everything in line. My best advice is read, read, search, read, and then read some more, these are finicky engines, and need to be watched carefully or your going to end up spending a lot of downtime wrenching.
 
If you hold the recall button down and then push the other button, should display knock retard, your low MV is probably your 02 sensor on its way out, TPS should be .40-.46 at idle, IAC also controls idle. Your O2 sensor may "lean" your engine out, and POP there goes a head gasket, your TPS may not be getting you into "power enrichment" mode being low, and IAC should be 10-40 at idle I believe, personally I wouldn't be blasting WOT runs until you get everything in line. My best advice is read, read, search, read, and then read some more, these are finicky engines, and need to be watched carefully or your going to end up spending a lot of downtime wrenching.

Thanks for the easy to understand explanation! This is what I needed. I've been going through forums trying to learn as much as I can but some things are just now easy for the novice to understand. I'm actually on old school muscle car guy but this computerized turbo stuff fascinates me.
 
Thanks for the easy to understand explanation! This is what I needed. I've been going through forums trying to learn as much as I can but some things are just now easy for the novice to understand. I'm actually on old school muscle car guy but this computerized turbo stuff fascinates me.
No problem, I was once in your shoes, new to the “scene”, I still have a shitload to learn myself, but have read enough, and gotten advice on this forum, and my car runs like a scolded cat that’s had turpentine wiped on its ass. The search function in your friend in this forum, also great info on vortexbuicks.com, GN/Type.org, and others, you can see in my signature how much I’ve added to my car, and most of it, before I even put any asphalt under the tires, these are very fun, expensive cars to own, take a breath, and a step back, get everything set correctly where it needs to be, and then run the hell out of it!!!!!
 
Being "new to the scene" I'm guessing the car hasn't been fooled with? I would be seriously looking at a fuel pump and hot wire to supply that engine. Even a stock one needs more/fresh pump to make boost safely. Those cc should steadily be counting up. This signifies the o2 is doing something( each time it crosses the .450 mv it counts) so if it is lazy after it warms up a new o2 is definitely in order.
Next is getting the fp where the chip is designed for. Usually an adjustable for.
Boost is easy, fuel on the other hand can be difficult with the stock stuff. Too much of one with out enough of the other and you get to wrench or pay to have it done.
 
Being "new to the scene" I'm guessing the car hasn't been fooled with? I would be seriously looking at a fuel pump and hot wire to supply that engine. Even a stock one needs more/fresh pump to make boost safely. Those cc should steadily be counting up. This signifies the o2 is doing something( each time it crosses the .450 mv it counts) so if it is lazy after it warms up a new o2 is definitely in order.
Next is getting the fp where the chip is designed for. Usually an adjustable for.
Boost is easy, fuel on the other hand can be difficult with the stock stuff. Too much of one with out enough of the other and you get to wrench or pay to have it done.

I bought the car modded. See my signature for parts list. I don't know how much the previous owner(s) knew so I'm trying to learn and make adjustments to what I have. It had an older chip so I replaced with a current TT chip which made it run a lot better. I also followed suggestions and bought a scanmaster to monitor. It already has a HP pump and hot wire kit, adjustable fuel regulator, and 42lb injectors and voltage kit. I just ordered a new O2 sensor as suggested here. I want to learn how to read the Scanmaster data so I can tune it to run reliably. It's already plenty fast. I want to learn the computer aspect and not how to change head gaskets! LOL! Thanks for the reply, you guys are my best resource to learn. I'm not real good at deciphering technical instructions but catch on quickly when it is explained in simple language.
 
I bought the car modded. See my signature for parts list. I don't know how much the previous owner(s) knew so I'm trying to learn and make adjustments to what I have. It had an older chip so I replaced with a current TT chip which made it run a lot better. I also followed suggestions and bought a scanmaster to monitor. It already has a HP pump and hot wire kit, adjustable fuel regulator, and 42lb injectors and voltage kit. I just ordered a new O2 sensor as suggested here. I want to learn how to read the Scanmaster data so I can tune it to run reliably. It's already plenty fast. I want to learn the computer aspect and not how to change head gaskets! LOL! Thanks for the reply, you guys are my best resource to learn. I'm not real good at deciphering technical instructions but catch on quickly when it is explained in simple language.
Well, you won't be too much "tuning" with just the scan master, you can adjust a bit, I would suggest getting a powerlogger, and possibly a wide band O2, and a TT 6.1 chip, then the computer will keep your air fuel ratio adjusted at where you set it. Just another 2 pieces to keep in mind from popping a head gasket. Unfortunately theses are not cheap cars, and need a little added to them to keep them running reliably, but once everything is in place, you can enjoy the car without fear of doing damage that will keep you wrenching.
 
I'm not looking to go crazy for crazy boost or power, I just wanted to get the car where it was safe to "play" with once in a while. It's actually plenty fast for me as it is. What exactly does the wide band O2 (sensor?) / 6.1 chip do that the standard O2 and 5.7 won't? Thanks again for the education. Waiting for the new O2 to come it and see if I can first get the readings close to where they should be. After that I may get more adventurous! I've learned during my life with cars that there can never be enough!
 
I'm not looking to go crazy for crazy boost or power, I just wanted to get the car where it was safe to "play" with once in a while. It's actually plenty fast for me as it is. What exactly does the wide band O2 (sensor?) / 6.1 chip do that the standard O2 and 5.7 won't? Thanks again for the education. Waiting for the new O2 to come it and see if I can first get the readings close to where they should be. After that I may get more adventurous! I've learned during my life with cars that there can never be enough!
The wide and o2, combined with the power logger, and 6.1 chip, allow you to set an air/fuel ratio and the computer adjusts, far more accurate and dependable, but it's about a $600 hit to the pocket book, but the power logger will let you see everything in graph form, and records, so you can go back and see where and what is going on after a "run" or even just cruising around, have a set point at where the power logger starts "recording" and hook up your lap top, and see the recording in graph form, much easier to see where "knock" and such may be coming from.
 
Thanks again for the simple explanation. Is there a way that I can see if my system is knocking and is in danger of blowing a head gasket using the scanmaster? I had thought that the scan,master showed knock?
 
Thanks again for the simple explanation. Is there a way that I can see if my system is knocking and is in danger of blowing a head gasket using the scanmaster? I had thought that the scan,master showed knock?
Yup, scanmaster will show knock retard, with the recall function, just giving you options
 
Thanks, will consider those when funds become available. I got my O2 sensor in today and will see what changes when I have a chance to install and test.
 
Thanks, will consider those when funds become available. I got my O2 sensor in today and will see what changes when I have a chance to install and test.
Watch your O2 cross counts, warmed up, OFF idle, TT chips run open loop idle, and you probably won't see it change much, off idle you'll see they start their upward climb and start cycling, when they start to get get lazy, time for a new O2 sensor, I stock them on my shelf as they are cheap enough, and when they start getting lazy, slap a new one in, no waiting for the parts store to "order" them.
 
Ok, pretty much all Greek to me, like I said I need "Scanmaster for Dummies" LOL! I can read up on the TPS and IAC and can probably figure out the resets. Will resetting the IAC and TPS fix my low MV?

How do I access the knock retard readings? There is no KR option showing on my meter and the only thing that the recall button shows is the MV 208 35mph display,

What are my errant TPS, IAC and MV affecting?

Thanks for the replies!
Following as I'm in almost the exact same position. Just hooked up my scanmaster G and haven't a clue what im looking at! Lol I just need to get to reading up it sounds like...
 
I picked up the ALDLDROID app to use with my Scanmaster G. Makes it a lot easier to read and understand the data. I plan to eventually get a powerlogger/chip upgrade as funds become available. Until then this combo helps me have an idea what's going on.
 
Idle numbers don't look bad. TPS and IAC are a little off but not going to make a huge difference in anything. They are still well with in limits.

Whats does the scanmaster recall when you do a wot pull?
 
Back
Top