Scanmaster G readings

[TireFryer]

I may have those formed egr hoses off of my car. I deleted the egr and the lines were perfect. I’ll check when I move back home from college this weekend.

 

[hensleyt]

TA Performance dose have just the drivers side. If you weld it ,bolt it to a spear cylinder head before you start. or C clamp it to a metal bench with all the clips you can find a space for. its going to warp but not as bad. Then over to the belt sander to flatten it out. If not you will trade one leak for another.
Do you half to have the EGR ? the TT chip is burned EGR delete. If state law requires it ,it has to be visible but its no function today. If the man dose not inspect I would ditch the EGR and eliminate one potential leak.

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

@HotAirWH1 thanks for the list, it's great.

@SCOOBY DOO any tricks to removing the exhaust manifold or pretty straight forward?

@hensleyt No reason I wasn't going the EGR delete route, just wasn't up to speed on it with trying to figure out everything else for this car for the first time. i have ordered a delete plate and watched a few videos on the process, seems pretty straight forward.

It looks like the hoses coming off the "T" going to the HVAC system, look a bit different, can they be swapped out with a regular vacuum hose of similar diameter?

Also, where would be the best place to tie in the boost gauge?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Possible vac leak: at the ft of the plenum/intake surface.
No bolts there to keep things snug.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

@HotAirWH1 thanks for the list, it's great.

@SCOOBY DOO any tricks to removing the exhaust manifold or pretty straight forward?

@hensleyt No reason I wasn't going the EGR delete route, just wasn't up to speed on it with trying to figure out everything else for this car for the first time. i have ordered a delete plate and watched a few videos on the process, seems pretty straight forward.

It looks like the hoses coming off the "T" going to the HVAC system, look a bit different, can they be swapped out with a regular vacuum hose of similar diameter?

Also, where would be the best place to tie in the boost gauge?

You'll prolly end up snapping off the two crossover studs. I'd take the header to a local exhaust shop in town and have them remove the two studs and I'd grab a pair of new studs/nuts from them.

 

[hensleyt]

I just mention it because it is a place a vacuum leak can be. Its just taking up space today TT chip has shut that function off.Its a mater of unplugging the 3 wire plug. plugging its vacuum sores and removing the little black box and EGR valve. It won't set a check engine light.

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

Swapping out vacuum lines, removed EGR setup, so the vacuum that goes the hard steel line to the cannister that feeds the HVAC?/y-spliter to cruise control/vacuum storage ball, do i need both a check valve and the cannister on that specific hose that eliminates the ERG setup? Seems like the cannister is acting as a check valve, wasn't sure if i needed both check valve and cannister doing the same thing (if they actually do the same thing).

 

[hensleyt]

the canister needs the check valve. that's the metal line pointed at driver finder. the line pointing to the firewall is for HVAC cruse and it needs a check valve. short story the two checks at the metal lines need to stay in place.

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

Ah, sorry, thin we got our lines crossed. So the cannister (might not be what its actually called) if the splitter closest to the firewall which split the ERG line/Y-splitter to the cruise control/HVAC lines. There's a steel line running to a check valve, from there it went to the ERG setup (which i removed) and now it just runs to that other chunky looking splitter. Just wondered if I needed the check valve and the chunky splitter on the same hose. I'll take pics tomorrow if this still doesn't make sense.

Also, is this line cracked/broke?

 

[hensleyt]

its easy to get our lines crossed.
That pic looks like passenger side of the doghouse fuel lines and metal vacuum line look like the tab has broken off. Pull it off and and look at it closely . I could be wrong.

The lines cross under the throttle body, one for the vapor canister pointed at the finder. It will be metal line short hose and check valve then straight to the canister.
The second metal has a short hose( Mine )has a T type check valve one side goes under the headlight to the vacuum ball the outer to EGR and HCAV. you have cruse I don't so yes a Y or T was needed.
You need to come out of the check valve ( if its simple in and out ) to aT or Y, one side to the vacuum ball. the other side heads back to the fire wall you will need a Y or T one side for the HVAC the other side to cruse.

the chunky splitter and hose not needed.

I will be out of town and away from my laptop tell this time next week have fun

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

So I replaced a handful of lines, zip tied them, ran a boost gauge, tee'd it off from line that runs to the map sensor and.......BLMs still showed 142. and on top of that i got nothing on my boost gauge. i picked up a smoke machine this weekend to help me track down these leaks, see what i'm doing wrong. question for the group, what's a good place to pump in the smoke from to get it distributed throughout all the lines?

 

[hensleyt]

Did you fix the exhaust leak?

 

[NoVA_87_GN]

Still on my list. Hoping to get to it this week. Would this directly affect the BLM numbers or is that more of a vacuum leak issue?

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Exhaust leak = high blm’s