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GNregistry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2002
Messages
865
June 4, 2009, 87 GN Hardtop with 98,103 miles,

List of bolt-on mods:
TA49, Alum F body Radiator, Dual Fans, TT Chip/60# inj, Adj FPR/Gauge, Power Plate, 3" FMIC, 3" Down Pipe with external wastegate/external turbonetics boost controller, boost set around 15, tested at track up to 20 pounds no knock, 3" Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust with test pipe, 235/60/15 Cooper Cobra street radial tires, 275 DR for drag strip, Alum MAF Pipe with K&N 8" cone AF, Braces, Engine Tie Down, rear pinion snubber,XP Plus Fuel Pump, 160 thermostat, SCANMASTER, Boost/Knock on A-Pillar.

fuel pressure 42.5 line off
fuel mileage: 16-18 mpg --- is this good, bad or normal???
approx 350hp, using "Bison theory of HP rating" no dyno needed

after 32 miles of driving
AF=6
L8=36
bat=13.4
INT=128
BL=115
Clt=162
ATS=125-127
r=800
TPS=44
IAC=13-16 (varies)

------------------------------------------------------------
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drag racing numbers/questions below for my setup

ALSO, listed below are QTR mile times while at GS Nationals
=====================
NO BOOST AT LINE
BRAKE, WOT on last yellow, in Over Drive
===============================
2 Passes

13.298 @ 105.17 mph, 3740 pounds, street radials, at GS Nationals 2009
R/T: 1.088
60'=2.254
330'=5.773
1/8=8.669, MPH=85.14
1000'=11.171
1/4=13.298, MPH=105.17
====================
3740 pounds, street radials, at GS Nationals 2009
R/T: .372
60'=2.359
330'=5.949
1/8=8.907, MPH=83.38
1000'=11.451
1/4=13.602, MPH=104.10

with better RT/60' what is my car running...
what is correct air pressure for DRAG RADIALS (275) be set at:________

Goal - would like car running as driver as fast as I can push it without knock/detonation, low boost on street with option turn up boost at track to 20 pounds with no knock/detonation

please help, thank you
Brett
 
Not sure exactly what your asking. At normal driving conditions, I get 22-24 MPG, yours is a little lower, but that could be just diff driving habits, plus all cars are different. Your gas milage is fine, Coolant Temps ok, both good signs.You would increase your ETs with better tires (Like Mickys) and maybe a set of air-bags.More boost with no detenation on the street on pump gas, You should go with Alky, You WILL Like you results as so many of us have. Scan-master numbers seem fine.
 
By the way... I have a TE60 Turbo with a similar set-up like yours(With heads, Alky..ect) and I made 509hp at The Wheel on the Dyno..
 
Are my scanmaster numbers ok?

I read the board threads and surf TB so I know what to ask...

I thought my scanmaster numbers are good, but wanted outside ideas...
 
Also, have HR upper adj control arms, and lower control arms with dual airbags at home, currently in maine on vacation...control arms arrived after I left for GS Nationals, so I could not install...

how can I increase my MPG...???
 
Are my scanmaster numbers ok?

I read the board threads and surf TB so I know what to ask...

I thought my scanmaster numbers are good, but wanted outside ideas...

Scanmaster numbers look OK. MPG? That has a lot of variables as far as an answer. Dont forget, pretty flat roads here in Florida. Like i said, no 2 cars will be the same, I was surprised my fuel consumption really didnt change when i went to the 60s. (As long as I keep my foot out of it!:biggrin: ) Your Ok, just the low side of the average. I think I would consider Alky, and have TT burn you an Alky chip. ( Just an outside idea.)
 
what were your o2 millivolts? FYI reaction times at the track will never change the et. it is the 60 ft you need to get way down.
 
You will need higher octane to run 20psi. If you want more fuel mileage you need to get the block learn to be at 128 when cruising and you could also order a lean burn chip from Eric that will cruise in open loop at about 16:1. Air pressure in DR's is experimental. No 2 cars are the same. Id start at 19 and work down from there.
 
O2 is 777 up to 850, sometimes higher

BL is 115 always

They say rule of thumb on the BLM is plus or minus 10 from 128
At 115 your pulling fuel long term.

perhaps lower your FP to around 41 vac off and see if Bl's change.

If I add 3 oz of acetone per 10 gals of fuel i get around 27mpg on highway at 62 mph.
 
First of all, get the car on a diet. I run around 15 psi in my M/T D/R. Get rid of the pinion snubber. Install the HR stuff. Check you pinion angle.

What is MAF reading?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Thank You

my BL is high of 117

question, what does diet mean, get rid of parts, sorry but I am new to mods on GN's 3.8...

as for HR stuff, ordered it before GS Nationals, and it didnt arrive at my door until after Nationals and I ordered the part in april 2009... now I am on vacation near Portland, Maine and parts are in Wisconsin...

also what do you mean by pinion angle...
 
Reduce tire pressure in Drag Radials, gotcha.

as for MAF reading: where do I get that, is that on scanmaster, any scanmaster numbers are listed in first post... since then no changes have been done yet, however tomorrow I will try to lower FP to 41
 
Pull some fuel to like 41 with the FP regulator as stated above or look for a vacumm leak, most likely headers, intake or a vacumm line that is sucking in air that is not being metered by the MAF while your under vacumm, this tells the Oxygen sensor you are running too lean, then 02 sensor sends a signal to ECU to take out some fuel, you may also lower your FP 2 pnds, like they said no 2 cars are the same, if problem still persist then sent chip back to Eric to have him burn it a little leaner while cruising around, he would only have to take fuel out from the 1st few blocks of the program to acomplish the goal of 128 BL while crusing and get better MPG.
 
Technically, I am not hurting any engine parts at this time, nothing is bad if I were to leave the car alone until I got back home... in a week or 2 months...

Thank You
 
IF I Add DR tires at 15-19 PSI, and build boost so I leave at 5-6psi, would that mean better time for 60', is my goal a 1.90... plus add HR rear end parts...
 
IF I Add DR tires at 15-19 PSI, and build boost so I leave at 5-6psi, would that mean better time for 60', is my goal a 1.90... plus add HR rear end parts...

You should be in the low 1.70's with t he DR's launching the way you described.
 
Normal, drop the FP 2psi. see if the BLM's change.

To run 20 psi. you could probably do it on 100 octane unleaded added to an almost empty tank 5 gallons to about 1-2 gallons of 93. :smile:

You could gain about 60 easy HP with the DIY alky. setup. :cool:

What drag radials do you have?

If Nittos 1.8 is your goal.

If the stickier ones probably 1.7 to 1.6 would be your goal.

Your current 60ft.s suck, then again most of mine do too. :p

Track prep etc. determines what you can leave the line with, start at 3-4 psi. and see if the track is holding then work your way up in boost IF the number goes down.

Good luck with the gas mileage, seems normal to me if you drive it like most of us daily drivers do. ;)

I only get about 20 on long highway only trips and my cars weigh about the same mebbe a bit more than yours does. Two astroroofs and both have stereos added on which are heavy.

Around town and some highway 16-17 would be normal.
 
Drag Radials are 275/60/15, not sure about the 60 number, but I know it is 275 BF Goodrich.... found pair at Nationals, mounted on t type rims for $50 each, $100 cash, some tread left, for me, probably couple summers...

Whie at Nationals, I added DR and 3 gallons of racing fuel 110? I think, but the I started having knock and proble with A-Pillar boost vac loosening, causing turbo issues... being that it was driven to Nationals, I was not pushing it too hard... heard some noises, thought it was my car, but it was the car in next lane... lov to race single lane for testing....

GUYS THANK YOU VERY MUCH, RAINY weather, time to sell the GN for an ark, rain for the next 9 days, feels like snow or rain season, next is road construction season...

20 psi on 93 pump gas were my times at 13.2 at 105, loaded car, street radials, no boost, like leaving a stop sign, yellow... GO
 
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