scanmaster installed NO KNOCK AMEN

[liv4gnz]

ok just wired it in its at like 12-13 psi

the upgrades that are in right now not going by my sig but have them next to me

scanamster rjc power plate 60# injectors and turbo tweek chip

rest is going in when downpipe comes in monday

so on the right of the scan master is knock as long as the numbers dont go up im safe?

and if it goes up by how much does it go up and is it safe to drive if there is any reading other than 0

 

[Underboost]

and if it goes up by how much does it go up and is it safe to drive if there is any reading other than 0

Yes if you get knock you will see 1,1.5,2,2.5,3,4,5 etc. on the right

Tune the TT chip buy reading O2's.

I started by adding 1lb of boost test driving then adding more, if I saw my O2's drop bellow 7.80's at WOT I would add more fuel in the chip. My car ran great with the O2's @ 780-800 range. 780 lean 800 rich

After increasing the boost several times and adding more fuel in the chip you reach a point where you will see knock. Once this happened I would turn on the Alky because the octane in the pump gas wasn't enough at that point or I would take some timing out.

I found with my car the most boost @ 26 degrees of timing and 91 pump gas was about 15-16psi w/no knock

With alky same timing I could run 25-26psi

Remember the tune changes day by day with outside air temp. The hotter it is outside the more prone to knock.

1 degree of knock is ok anymore and your asking for trouble "blown Head gasket"

That knock gauge is your friend. It'll keep your TR on the road. Once you get it down and understand how it all works you will be very happy.

 

[liv4gnz]

i guess im running lean i just put in the te44 and its at like 16 pounds and at WOT its a little lean but no knock is it safe to drive?

its like around 7 to 740

am i going for higher o2s because of knock or because of the lean mixture? am i adding more gas say to up the o2s or to get rid of the knock

 

[Underboost]

i guess im running lean i just put in the te44 and its at like 16 pounds and at WOT its a little lean but no knock is it safe to drive?

its like around 7 to 740

am i going for higher o2s because of knock or because of the lean mixture? am i adding more gas say to up the o2s or to get rid of the knock

Every car is different if your not seeing knock and the car runs good leave it.

You should be reading your O2's at WOT 3rd gear. Press the recall button to save input then see what the reading was by holding down the left button. By holding down both buttons you will see mph at what the reading was taken. The scanmaster will also save the knock without pushing in the button for a quick reference but it's not as accurate as wot 3rd gear.

 

[liv4gnz]

ok gonna try

 

[RUQWKNF]

And just to add to this a little, I've always felt .740s at the top of 3rd gear is about perfect when running a race chip with high timing, high boost and straight VP C-16 race gas. It's very dangerous territory when running straight 93 pump gas, that might be of questionable octane grade.

Personally, I have always shot for .780's - low .800's on 93 octane.
With gas formuations being different, station to station, every car will be different. Another thing that I've found over the years is different combinations can withstand more or less boost and timing on 93 octane.
Example:

Stock car with fuel system mods and everything else up to snuff with a good Spring Cleaning done. Stock IC, stock motor, stock turbo, 93 octane from a name brand station (BP, Shell, Exxon, Chevron etc) 16-17psi, timing under WOT 19-20*, fuel pressure set at 42-46psi at idle with hose off of regulator. This should be an optimal tune, with good O2 numbers and very little knock retard. But again every car will be different. Higher mileage motors might not be able to take this tune due to carbon and or oil in the intake and heads.

Same car but with bolt ons. Upgraded turbo, larger downpipe, cat back exhaust, larger injectors (42.5# - 60#) upgraded front mount intercooler, but stock motor. Same basic tune with the exception of a couple more psi of boost. 18-19psi, 19-20* timing under WOT and same fuel pressure. The extra cooling capacity with the frount mount intercooler, coupled with the cooler charge temps from the more efficient turbo, will allow you to get away with a couple more psi of boost.

Same car but throw in a set of aluminum cylinder heads and a good cam. I was able to run 20-21psi boost with 20-21* timing under WOT with little to no detonation on straight 93 octane. Same fuel pressure levels. It is also recommended to upgrade the radiator and fan setup when going this route for extra cooling capacities.

Again, every car is different. But these are some general guidelines that I've followed over the years with these cars. Anything on pump gas, and I try to stay rich in O2 numbers at the top of 3rd gear. Those being .780 - .800 range with no more than 3 degrees of knock retard. If I ever see KR that keeps getting worse during a run, I immediately lift and abort the run. With a stock torque converter, it is common to see some KR between the shifts. Just as long as it goes away you should be ok. To me, damaging KR is anything over 7* at moderate boost levels. (Below 21psi) At high boost levels (24-35psi) anything over 2* at the top of 3rd, to me is scary.
With Race gas, (over 110 octane leaded) and I'll shoot for .740-.760 with little to now knock retard and boost levels of 22-30+psi and timing of 26-27* WOT. False knock can also be caused by the downpipe banging on the body/floor pan seam on launch. Best to take a BFM to that seam whenever possible. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, the Scanmaster is one of the best tuning devices ever made for our cars. I wouldn't own a Turbo Buick without one.
Hope some of this helps and sorry to ramble on.

Patrick

 

[liv4gnz]

now when you set the fuel pressure idle at like 43 hose off than you up it per pound of boost?

at WOT its around 790-800 20 pounds of boost full fuel upgraded and te44

 

[Underboost]

now when you set the fuel pressure idle at like 43 hose off than you up it per pound of boost?

at WOT its around 790-800 20 pounds of boost full fuel upgraded and te44

Nope just set the fuel psi to 43 line off, put the vac line back on once adjusted. Then adjust fuel psi if needed with your chip and the foot pedal inside the car.

You say the O2's are at 790-800 @ 20psi now?

 

[liv4gnz]

its at around 20pounds boost the fuel pressure regulator is almost maxed out

what does this mean

is too much fuel going to cause knock or why is it showeing knock with so much fuel at around 20 psi?

i keeo stopping and going to raise the fuel whats the average it should be at the 02s under WOT and with 20 psi? with no knock??

 

[Underboost]

its at around 20pounds boost the fuel pressure regulator is almost maxed out

what does this mean

is too much fuel going to cause knock or why is it showeing knock with so much fuel at around 20 psi?

i keeo stopping and going to raise the fuel whats the average it should be at the 02s under WOT and with 20 psi? with no knock??

1-What does the fuel psi gauge connected to the rail say at idle with the vac line off?

2- If you screw the set screw in does the fuel psi increase? Does it decrease when screwed out?

If your answer is no it doesn't increase then you might have a bad regulator this is not uncommon.

3- Once you set the Regulator at 43psi you don't need to touch it anymore leave it alone.

4-Do you know how the Turbo Tweak Chip works? Do you have the paper work on how to adjust it? If not download the info from his site. TurboTweak Home

 

[RUQWKNF]

Like Underboost has said, once you set your fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line off, tighten down the jam nut and reinstall the vacuum line.

If you set your pressure to 43psi using this manner, then reinstall the hose, the pressure will drop down a few psi. But from this point on, you don't need to adjust the fuel pressure anymore, if you have a Turbo Tweak chip that will allow you to turn up the injector duty cycle. Disconnecting the vacuum line at idle is physically setting your "Static" fuel pressure.

The fuel pressure regulators job is to increase the fuel pressure 1 psi for each 1psi of boost that it gets from the vacuum line. Our fuel pressure regulators are what is referred to as a boost referenced 1 to 1 style regulator. If you have a fuel pressure gauge that is installed on the hood, or underneath a windshield wiper, you should be able to see if your fuel system is functioning properly.

Ex: You have your static fuel pressure set at 43psi with the vacuum line off, then reinstall the vacuum line. Now, under boost (20psi in your case) your fuel pressure gauge under Wide Open Throttle should read a rock steady 63psi. If it does not, or if it reads low, you could have a weak pump, not enough voltage to the pump, clogged fuel filter or a dying pump all together. Now, if your fuel pressure under WOT is steadily dropping, you also have an issue. The needle should read a rock steady 63psi reading.

Hope some of this helps.

Patrick