scanmaster readings in park

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Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
377
I just installed my scanmaster and this is the reading

O2 441
Af 09
L8 40
Bat 11.2
Int 128
Bl 133
Mph 00
Clt 163
Ats 84
Tps .54
Iac 00
 
Your throttle blade is too far open. This is why the MAF is reading too high and the IAC is reading zero. Turn the set screw on the throttlebody counter clockwise and the RPM should drop down as the TPS voltage goes below .5 volts. You should start to see IAC counts and the MAF reading will come down too.

Neal
 
your voltage is pretty low at only 11.2 volts... should be the same as alternator voltage. You should be looking for zero degrees of knock and the O2 readings at idle will always differ. A better indicator of how your O2 sensor is reading are the CC (Cross counts) as that lets you see how many times the O2 sensor is reading between lean and rich...
 
New reading in drive
Retard 3.3-13.4
02 835
Af 09
L8 59
Bat 9.2
Int 122
Bl 118
Clt 171
Ats 95
Tps .46
Rpm 975
Iac 165
Cc 57
 
I agree with the post above that you need to find out why the car isn't charging. It looks like your alternator may be bad. The next problem is that the idle RPM is really pretty high and should be around 800 but would depend on what is programmed in the chip. The knock retard could be a result of the low system voltage. I'd work on the voltage problem next and then re-focus on the tuning after that.

Neal
 
Check the voltage coming out of the alternator. Then you will most likely be repalcing it. How did you get knock when your TPS reading is .46? Was the knock at WOT?
 
I agree with Neal about the low voltage and knock. You said the last numbers were in drive. Most all the numbers are off.
 
Key on engine off, does you volt light come on?

Very good question here.... The voltage reading for the scanmaster is read from this circuit. Its also the circuit for the CCCI system I believe (if i'm wrong someone chime in). When my volt light had a burned bulb, I would only see 11 volts on the scanmaster. When I replaced the bulb it went to 13.5 immediately... Might also be that pesky ignition switch problem...
 
No it was at idle in drive and I think it was my alternator I unhooked the battery while running and it cut right off but the alternator is under warranty should have the new one tomorrow I will recheck the tps I should do it with the car off right
 
Right now I have the plug off the alt running to a open ignition spot on fuse box if ihook it up regular the volt light will go in and out so I bypass it
 
No it was at idle in drive and I think it was my alternator I unhooked the battery while running and it cut right off but the alternator is under warranty should have the new one tomorrow I will recheck the tps I should do it with the car off right

tps with key on engine off and set to .42.. after you turn it on it should go to .44.... set WOT tps voltage to anything above 4.0 Lots of people say to set it at around 4.5 while some very knowledgeable say anything over 4.0 is fine so long as the throttle blade opens all the way. I know in may case no matter how hard I try, I can only get it to 4.2 volts max at WOT...
 
Right now I have the plug off the alt running to a open ignition spot on fuse box if ihook it up regular the volt light will go in and out so I bypass it

I'm pretty sure the Digital ignition system uses that bulb to route power to the coil pack and module thats why its important that the volt light comes on with the key on engine off.. Don't know how bypassing it would affect it however... Caspers has a write up on their site on the subject...
 
Ok I just got my Casper field fix harness in when I first started the car it ran smooth like it supposed to but I looked at the scan master and volts was at 18.1 I shut the car off and restarted it it was back down to 11.7-12.2 and wouldn't charge nomore
 
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