Scanmaster Readings?

[Jicaju]

Finally took her out for a drive. Boost is about 17 to 18 pounds. Wound her out threw 3rd gear O2 at 792 Knock at 0.7 this is on 93 octane pump gas. Car has a sputter when under boost more noticable in first gear with dump uncapped. Car has new wires HDP, 100 pound valve springs, RJC power plate, 340 walbro pump, hot wire kit, new plugs, adjustable feul regulater set at 43 pounds with vacuum hose off, still has stock mass air flow pipe and K/N filter with lower half of air box removed. Car has 18,xxx miles. Any suggestions as where to go with adjustments and suggestions on the sputter? Thanks Jicaju

 

[TT/Ameasap]

18 psi on stock gage?

I would be checking plug gap,maf,coil pack.

Plugs should be gapped at a tight .032 if you plan on turning the wick up later.

Maf should read 4-5 in park while running
bl's around 128=or-10..although, I run a smigin higher.
255 @WOT


swap coil packs to make sure. Red Regal T has them for a good price. Youll need one anyway.

All i can think of now. Oh.. always get some good octane for tuning purposes. Hoses blow off ,lines break,things happen at higher boost levels...trust me.

HTH
Bo

 

[Jicaju]

Yes 17 to 18 stock gauge. To much?

 

[Jicaju]

MAF at 5-6 at idle in park. bl at 128. Plugs gapped to .035. Have not checked coil pack yet.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Ahhhhrrr. I reread your post..... Sometimes the stock gauge can be off. I would regap plugs to a tight .032 and that will not hurt anything.

 

[Jicaju]

TT are you saying that gapping the plugs to .032 could get rid of the sputter I have under boost?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Yes.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the accuracy of the boost gauge or the actual amount of boost your running for now....Just tune for best performance with your combination and fuel.

Tune to rid your engine of the sputters you mention, for maximum boost level with little or no knock retard, and a good air/fuel mixture....The actual boost level is of little consequence. You can always follow/chase Postal or Razor or some of the other prominent racers here after you get a baseline tune established.

That "sputter" could be caused by bad air volume measurements at WOT (bad MAF), or simple electrical issues (bad engine grounds, bad coil, bad ignition module, plug wires, plugs, plug gap, etc.). You could even have some condensation in your fuel tank after temperature fluxuations in the garage (no reflection on your general level of cognitive function intended with this suggestion ). Replacing components with known good parts is a simple way to troubleshoot the sputter.

If you don't already know somebody with a TR and extra parts, look in the "Main" list of forums for the regional group nearest you. Post there to see if a Buick/TTA owner with known good parts lives near you. You may be lucky and make friends with a supply of known good parts.

lee

 

[Jicaju]

Thanks for you replies. Went ahead and gapped plugs to .032. But while I was there check Ohms on each wire ( they are MSD multi angle 8.8mm so I can bend number 2 and 4 at the Houston Down Pipe). I think I found my sputter problem. They all checked around 64 to 74 Ohms except for number 2 it was at 149 Ohms. When I take her back out I'll let everyone know. Thanks again Jicaju

 

[Jicaju]

Yep it was the wire.

 

[83ttypecooled]

misfire

Hi!
Yeah, most misfires are as a result of ignition malfunctions. I hope that is the end of yours, but beware, problems do surface occasionally!
Dale

 

[Jicaju]

Yeh, these things are man made. Never seen to many things that did'nt break eventually unless it was'nt used!!!!!!!!!!!!!!