Seating the rings

[scottk]

How long does it usually take to seat the rings in a new motor? Ive got speed pro PM rings!any suggestions on break in . The motor smokes a little at start up with about 60 miles on it

 

[87TIGN]

I used Speed Pro TRW's and mine sealed up pretty quick but I have talked to some people who have said theirs has taken several hundred miles to do so. Is it a constant smoke or a puff? Does the motor smoke while running?
-Andrew

 

[scottk]

it only seems to smoke at start up !ive been driving it today seems to be getting better

 

[87TIGN]

If its only at start up and it is getting less and less I would let it ride for another hundred miles or so and see what happens. Have you done a leakdown test? That will tell you if your rings are seated for sure or not.
-Andrew

 

[scottk]

its just a puff at start up! Ilooks blue but it smells like fuel! The car is running real rich also

 

[CTX-SLPR]

I'd fix that in a hurry before you wash down those cylinder walls and end up having to rehone the bores.

 

[turbofabricator]

If the machine work was performed correctly, all that is needed to seat the rings is a GOOD whack of the throttle under load.
After engine build, start the engine and run it for about 15-20 mins. at 2,000 RPM. Check for leaks, knocks, ect. and then shut it down. (This is with a roller cam. Increase RPM to 2,500 and run time to 25 mins with a flat tappet cam) Then drain oil and cut oil filter apart to check for any obvious debris. Then, add new oil and filter (duh!) and start the car and let it warm up. Then put the car in gear and slowly raise RPM untill it shows 4-5 psi boost on the gauge (with the brakes applied, against the converter) and then SLAM the throttle down and hit the rings with 10-18 psi boost. Yes, the tires will break loose. Then drive the car like you stole it. There is NO additional break-in to be performed. There is NO reason to "baby" the car for the first 500+ miles. If the machine work and assembly is correct, the crank will never touch the bearings. The only break in is the rings. They will smoke untill they break in. They only need to loaded aginast the cylinder wall to seat correctly. Watch an engine on a dyno some time. They will smoke untill you load the dyno. Then (if machined/built properly) the rings will seat and stop smoking. Cylinder pressure seats the rings.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Ken B said: "The only break in is the rings. They will smoke untill they break in. They only need to loaded aginast the cylinder wall to seat correctly. Watch an engine on a dyno some time. They will smoke untill you load the dyno. Then (if machined/built properly) the rings will seat and stop smoking. Cylinder pressure seats the rings."
+1.
We run the engine @ low load, [10-15%] for a few minutes.. Usually 20-30.
Cool down, check plugs, check oil, set valves, if necessary, and it's HAMMER TIME!

 

[d90dan]

We run the engine @ low load, [10-15%] for a few minutes.. Usually 20-30.
Cool down, check plugs, check oil, set valves, if necessary, and it's HAMMER TIME!

+1

 

[TurboBuickSix]

I agree with all the above but am curious about your heads,are they new,redone or did you just reuse them? I went to one local machinist with a set of stock heads that had no smoking issues at all and when I got them back and put them on my rebuilt motor they puff at startup because he screwed up the guides somehow I presume. To this day 2 years later they still do it sometimes but I am planning on a new set of aluminum heads in the near future. my point is don't forget about the guides leaking which would cause smoke at startup only.

 

[scottk]

Car puffs at start up only! Its getting better the motor seems really strong ! the heads are used i just changed valve springs for a roller

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Wouldn't be Champ alums, would they?

 

[scottk]

No ! they are ported irons.Im thinking valve seals at this point

 

[vacuum 6]

Wouldn't be Champ alums, would they?

Have you seen problems with the GN1s?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Alums..

Have you seen problems with the GN1s?

can have loose valve guides. Have seen some guides fall out of the head under "heavy use".
At 1 point, I think there were postings on the subject.

 

[vacuum 6]

can have loose valve guides. Have seen some guides fall out of the head under "heavy use".
At 1 point, I think there were postings on the subject.

Cool thanks for the 411.

 

[87NAT]

If the machine work was performed correctly, all that is needed to seat the rings is a GOOD whack of the throttle under load.
After engine build, start the engine and run it for about 15-20 mins. at 2,000 RPM. Check for leaks, knocks, ect. and then shut it down. (This is with a roller cam. Increase RPM to 2,500 and run time to 25 mins with a flat tappet cam) Then drain oil and cut oil filter apart to check for any obvious debris. Then, add new oil and filter (duh!) and start the car and let it warm up. Then put the car in gear and slowly raise RPM untill it shows 4-5 psi boost on the gauge (with the brakes applied, against the converter) and then SLAM the throttle down and hit the rings with 10-18 psi boost. Yes, the tires will break loose. Then drive the car like you stole it. There is NO additional break-in to be performed. There is NO reason to "baby" the car for the first 500+ miles. If the machine work and assembly is correct, the crank will never touch the bearings. The only break in is the rings. They will smoke untill they break in. They only need to loaded aginast the cylinder wall to seat correctly. Watch an engine on a dyno some time. They will smoke untill you load the dyno. Then (if machined/built properly) the rings will seat and stop smoking. Cylinder pressure seats the rings.

Very well said! I sure never babied my engines when I brought them to be dynoed.