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tacordes

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2002
Messages
92
Hello... I m getting ready to do a DIY alky system.
The nearest shurflo dealer in the St. louis area said they have
a 2.8 GPM pump at 45 psi... the number on the pump is
2088-422-444. will this pump work.... All I want for now is a single stage "simple system"

thanks.....:)
 
All you need is a "simple" system down to 11s. The Sureflo pump you want is #2687. It's a 60 psi pump. Go to www.northerntool.com Order it through them. It's around $60. If you need more info, go to my diy post further down the page.
 
You'd be better off using the Surflo 8000 series pumps. The 2088 series are low pressure light duty. Use the pump John recomended or save $20 and use Northern Hyd #342811-C179. It's $44.99 and more than adequate. It's preset for 60lbs and can be adjusted much higher if you want.
 
Short the pressure switch, run the pump dead head through some Aquamist nozzles and you'll get 130+ psi out of this "60 psi pump"!
 
I would also like to know the advantage of "shorting" the pump switch since I am following Red's line of thinking for the simple DIY system.

paul
 
Two reasons;

The up-and-down pressure fluctuations of the Shurflow pump and pressure switch have an appreciable effect on air fuel ratio especially if you're injecting alky. I have Wideband AFR readings on a dynojet that show this.

60 psi pressure into a 25 psi manifold pressure means you're only injecting at 35 psi delta. Good mixing results from good atomization which requires high delta p.
 
Hey Steve,

I haven't specifically done the test of looking at WB readings with lower alky percentage. I guess if you're injecting less alky percentage, you would see less o2 reading fluctuation as a result of the fluctuating pump. I was using 50/50 for that test (but I'm ready to try some 100% methanol - Steve Hill and I just went splitsies on a 55 gal drum! We'll see what happens! :eek: )
 
Originally posted by DMan
Two reasons;

The up-and-down pressure fluctuations of the Shurflow pump and pressure switch have an appreciable effect on air fuel ratio especially if you're injecting alky. I have Wideband AFR readings on a dynojet that show this.

60 psi pressure into a 25 psi manifold pressure means you're only injecting at 35 psi delta. Good mixing results from good atomization which requires high delta p.

Darn!!! I don't have a dynojet so I couldn't check for pressure fluctuations. I didn't really have to though, because, only running a car that may be capable of high 11s, I'm not experiencing any kind of problems running 60 psi. Most guys just want a basic, dependable system. However, the recipe for increased pressure you suggest, doesn't appear to have much more cost than just running the 60 psi and while I don't need it, it's good information for those that might. ;)
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
Darn!!! I don't have a dynojet so I couldn't check for pressure fluctuations. I didn't really have to though, because, only running a car that may be capable of high 11s, I'm not experiencing any kind of problems running 60 psi. Most guys just want a basic, dependable system. However, the recipe for increased pressure you suggest, doesn't appear to have much more cost than just running the 60 psi and while I don't need it, it's good information for those that might. ;)

I don't understand the patronizing tone of this reply. Don't know what I did to warrant it. :confused: Just sharing my experience and opinion..as valuable as anyone else's here. I've even bought stuff off this guy.
 
Gees, don't be so touchy. I didn't question your opinion and even stated it was good information for those who could use it. Sorry if I offended you. I asked, earlier in the thread, what was the advantage to high pump pressure. I just thought it was funny when you referred to pressure fluctuations and dynojet. If you don't have any KR at, say, 24#s of boost, at 60 psi pump pressure, why do you need 130 psi pump pressure? No advantage, in my opinion. No knock retard is no knock retard. At least it doesn't cost anything to do it, but don't you think it would be detrimental to pump life if the car was a daily driver...? I don't think someone who is considering a basic alky kit, as the person is who started this thread, really needs to know this more complicated stuff. He needs to get a basic kit on the car, and add things if he wants to.
 
DMan Don't even bother...:)

Red doesn't want anyone wasting their money on anything but his kit. It's funny, then it gets old...<sigh> You'll see what I mean...

I'll be looking forward to see the results of your testing as well. I'm just one other person that has seen first hand the value in good atomizztion. Especially when one is trying to run the very desirable 50-50 mix.

Tho' I had no proiblems with my old cast, stock heads,the alum. ones are giving me fits with flooding. I'm cobbing a kit now that is 2 stage, and will run an Aquamist 'speed valve for the first stage, and the second stage will use an MSD rpm window switch to allow the 2nd stage to spray only when the rpm's, (and timing) are high. Should stop the flooding. Ultimate goal is water only injection.

There are many great ideas comming around, from a number of people. I hope you stay tuned!

That's enough now Red, the streetlights are on and your mother is calling..;)
 
I'm pretty sure I wasn't talking to you but as usual, we must be subjected to more dribble with less substance. :rolleyes:

Tell me Tim...... you've seen the value of good atomization?..... :rolleyes: Enlighten us.
 
Use the search function. Enter 'atomization' as a search word.
Let me know what you come up with! ;)
 
Originally posted by DMan
I was using 50/50 for that test (but I'm ready to try some 100% methanol - Steve Hill and I just went splitsies on a 55 gal drum! We'll see what happens! :eek: )

what pump are you guys running?

are you gonna try 100% methanol?gonna add any lube or anything?

thanx.
 
WOW....

Well... I took the car out for a test drive....I used a 32 nos jet....
Unfortunatly the pressure switch i have does not activate till around 22 psi..... well....I did get some knock as the psi went up, once it got to 22 and maxed at 24-25 NO K N O C K... pulled very very hard.... unreal .. My simple system is going to turn into a 2 stage kit....I already have nos solenoids and another nosjet.. i just need to get a lower pressure switch ... I guess around 15 psi would be good....
Does anyone know if theres a napa part number for a hobbs/pressure switch..... also on a two stage system what is a good starting point for the jet size's

thanks this is gettin fun....

also... i was runnin 100% denatured....
 
Sorry I don't have the part number for you, but it's good to hear of you success.

2 stage is an excellent way to go. Sounds like you need a very small jet on the first stage, and may even want to lean the second stage out a tad after the 1st stage is installed.

It will be interesting to see how it works out. Track times would be cool as well..:)
 
Has anyone tried referencing the ShurFlo relief valve to boost pressure (instead of atmo), so the delivery pressure will always be relative, rather than be "rated P - boost P = actual P"?
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
If you don't have any KR at, say, 24#s of boost, at 60 psi pump pressure, why do you need 130 psi pump pressure? No advantage, in my opinion. No knock retard is no knock retard. I don't think someone who is considering a basic alky kit, as the person is who started this thread, really needs to know this more complicated stuff. He needs to get a basic kit on the car, and add things if he wants to.

WAITED FOR ANSWERS, BUT.......NO REBUTTAL.......I AM RIGHT AFTERALL. ;) KNEW IT ALL ALONG. :p
 
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