Simple Grainger Valve Question

[tlturbo]

Hi all,

I just installed a Grainger valve on my turbo so I could manually adjust the boost and NOT mess with the waste gate solinoid BUT before I take it out, I need to know something.

If I want to start with MINIMUM BOOST and slowly work my way up, do I start with the kmob on the Grainger valve screwed all the way OUT or all the way IN. I know I want to feed all the boost from the turbo through the valve to the actuator, BUT which way does that without bleeding off any boost?

See I told ya it was simple.

Thanks
Terry

 

[Wolfj359]

I believe you turn the know to the left for lower boost and the right to raise it.

Left=Lower

Right=Raise

I believe thats right but wait till someone confirms this before you take it as gospel .

 

[tlturbo]

Thanks -
But can I get another answer here from someone who knows for sure? I KNOW LOTS of you guys run these valves.

HELP !!!

Terry

 

[Black Car]

The more you open the valve the more boost. ie the more air that goes through the valve the more boost.
Turn it all the way one direction and blow through it. If you can then that direction is closed and min boost level. As you turn it the other direction you will get more boost.

Gary

 

[KEVINS]

Originally posted by Black Car
The more you open the valve the more boost. ie the more air that goes through the valve the more boost.

Sorry Gary but this is wrong! Opening the valve allows the wg valve to open which decreases boost. You are saying 2 opposite statements in your post.

Try this:
Making the valve SHORTER: INCREASES BOOST
Making the valve LONGER: DECREASES BOOST

Open the valve until there is no spring tension on the checkball then tighten it 1/2 turn. This may only give you 2-5psi of boost...

hth's
ks

 

[tlturbo]

OK,
this Grainger valve is a brass cylinder into which I screwed a hose barb on each end. there is a thumbscrew with a set screw in the side of it.
I assume I hook up one end to the turbo and the other to the wastegate actuator?????
If the thumbscrew is all the way counterclockwise, there is no tension on the relief valve and all the turbo boost goes to the actuator resulting in low boost and conversely, if you screw the thumbscrew all the way clockwise into the valve body, you are raising the spring pressure that the boost must overcome to open the relief and reach the actuator giving higher boost?

Am I right that this thing doesn't bleed off air but rather keeps boost from reaching the actuator until the boost overcomes the spring tension?
Have I got this right?

Also, why doesn't this Grainger valve look like the ones in the web pictures where you take them apart and mess with a ball and spring? They don't have a thumbscrew on them but I ordered this using the part number posted on here earlier.

Many thanks - Terry

 

[KEVINS]

Originally posted by tlturbo
OK,
this Grainger valve is a brass cylinder into which I screwed a hose barb on each end. there is a thumbscrew with a set screw in the side of it.
I assume I hook up one end to the turbo and the other to the wastegate actuator?????
If the thumbscrew is all the way counterclockwise, there is no tension on the relief valve and all the turbo boost goes to the actuator resulting in low boost and conversely, if you screw the thumbscrew all the way clockwise into the valve body, you are raising the spring pressure that the boost must overcome to open the relief and reach the actuator giving higher boost?

Am I right that this thing doesn't bleed off air but rather keeps boost from reaching the actuator until the boost overcomes the spring tension?
Have I got this right?

Exactly..

Originally posted by tlturbo
Also, why doesn't this Grainger valve look like the ones in the web pictures where you take them apart and mess with a ball and spring? They don't have a thumbscrew on them but I ordered this using the part number posted on here earlier.

I have NO IDEA Sounds like the wrong part.... I remember a while ago that someone mentioned that the wrong part number had been posted, maybe you got the wrong one? There is no "thumb" screw.. Here is the p/n 48935K25 and I just looked on McmasterCarr and it looks like mine. Here's the web page again..
http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html


ks

 

[Black Car]

Originally posted by KEVINS

Sorry Gary but this is wrong! Opening the valve allows the wg valve to open which decreases boost. You are saying 2 opposite statements in your post.

Try this:
Making the valve SHORTER: INCREASES BOOST
Making the valve LONGER: DECREASES BOOST

Open the valve until there is no spring tension on the checkball then tighten it 1/2 turn. This may only give you 2-5psi of boost...

hth's
ks

You are right Kevin, my error. Third Monday of the week...
Gary

 

[tlturbo]

Kevin,
Will this valve hold over 25 lbs boost or is this the one I've seen posts on that will only go to 20?

My Grainger doesn't sell this valve so where do I get it from?

What is this about drilling a hole?

Thanks for all the help - Terry

 

[b4black]

It's not a Grainger valve. IT'S A RELIEF VALVE DAMMIT!!!


Try McMaster-Carr. Use the website above that has part numbers for the valve, but try matching the fittings to your existing hoses (1/4"?) if you can.

 

[Steve Wood]

A screw on barb on one end and a piece of copper tubing sweated into the other end works like a charm.

 

[KEVINS]

Originally posted by tlturbo
Kevin,
Will this valve hold over 25 lbs boost or is this the one I've seen posts on that will only go to 20?

My Grainger doesn't sell this valve so where do I get it from?

What is this about drilling a hole?

Yea, I think this is the valve that they say won't hold over 25psi but all it takes is a bit trial and error with stretching the spring, making a spacer on the inside or just buying another one at a hardware store and you can get it. I was holding over 25psi with mine by stretching the spring until I switched turbos and lowered my boost.

http://www.mcmaster.com
P/n 48935K25

hth's
ks

 

[J Banning]

I don't have a "Grainger" valve, but I have one just like it. I think it's made by Wilkerson or one of the other large air pressure regulator manufacturers. Regardless, it's just a simple air pressure regulator. When I turn it right (tighten), it will increase the boost. Turning it left (loosen) will lower the boost level.

-Banning.

 

[Sinful6]

In order to raise the pressure higher than 25psi. couldn't you use the grainger valve in correlation with a bleeder valve? It seems that if you put the grainger after the bleeder that it would hold the pressure back. I may be wrong. The only reason I bring this up is because I am speculating either the grainger or the bstc, and will probably go with whichever spools the quickest.

Side note: If given the scenario that the grainger valve was set for 20psi., and you were running 17psi., would the car never see boost because it would never open the wastegate?

-DC

 

[Steve Wood]

yes, you can use a bleeder....I could get about 23# without the bleeder. I use a bleeder on one of my cars....

There is more than one available valve and some come with more than one spring.

There is also a model that looks more like the regulator valves but is also a release valve that is knob adjustable.

If the valve is set for 20#, there will be no pressure allowed to the wastegate so the turbo will continue to build boost until it hits 20#...then it will send the signal to the wastegate to open.

If your turbo is unable to make 20#, then nothing would happen.

Remember that boost is controlled by opening the wastegate. The "Grainger" valve blocks the path until the boost pressure exceeds the spring pressure of the valve.

 

[StageII86]

Don't any TR vendors just make Grainger valve kit? I hear questions about them all of the time (what parts, how to hook up, etc...). If one of our trusty vendors makes (or made) a kit, it would make things tons easier for everyone on here.

Vendors: hint, hint

 

[Sinful6]

Steve, is the performance gain really noticable with a grainger/bleeder combo over my current cockpit mounted bleeder? My car seems to spool like mad already(probably that 3000Non L/U). The idea that the type of boost controller I have has an impact on performance never really crossed my mind until recently, and now its bugging me. Would this valve have an impact on ET's?

,Confused -DC

 

[Steve Wood]

the basic idea is to keep boost off the wastegate until a desired level is reached in order to keep the puck from creeping off the seat and slowing spool.

If the car already spools well enuf to put you at the limit of traction, then all the valve will do, most likely, is make it harder to maintain traction.

The principle is sound. Whether or not, you really need more spool is probably an individual thing.

The main benefit that I see comes from being able to set the wastegate rod tension at a minimum level and control the boost with the valve. This allows the wastegate to break quickly, and to the full extent when the boost passes the valve and hits the actuator. Seems to minimize creep.

 

[scottyb]

Steve, my problem is boost spike. I have adjusted the arm to make 20psi, but the spike can go to 24 and I get significant knock. I blame this on the Thrasher 100. I have tried 2 different bleeders in place of the solenoid, but they have spike also. When I tested the bleeders, I backed off the actuator pre-load so the bleeder was doing all the adjustment, still spike. Do you think a grainger/relief valve will help?

Second, and you're not gonna believe this, I want to slow the spool for street use. At the track, I'm OK, but I can't go WOT in 1st gear on the street without sit-and-spin. Any thoughts?

Last, have any of you guys come up with a neat trick to make a relief valve adjustable without removing the hose?

TIA

 

[Steve Wood]

The Thrashers used to provide more boost in first and second gear by design. Less engine load-more boost. This could look like a spike in some cases.

If you have a stock wastegate actuator, and tighten it way down trying to get a lot of boost, it will tend to cause boost spikes at times because the puck does not open as quickly and does not travel as far. A fast spooling turbo may overrun the capacity of the hole flow.

Using the stock wastegate solenoid under chip control generally slows spool a bit because the factory added some code to slow the spool. When you eliminate the solenoid, the spool is not "dampened". Now some chip guys remove this code, I believe, to give you "fast spool".

A grainger valve, or similar arrangement, will give you maximum spool possible given current fueling/timing arrangements. This is in conflict with your street goals.

Have you recently changed turbos or wastegate housings? If it is not the chip design providing more boost, then it would seem to be a leak in the hoses, the wastegate hole too small, sticky puck, spring too tight from the rod being over tightened, something going way lean in the fueling...and probably more.

Norgren makes a regulator looking valve that is a pressure relief valve. Serves the same purpose as the grainger.

In your case, the grainger will make the spool even faster...might help the spike...maybe