hope this helps someone:
Step 1- Install alcohol tank
1A: Remove fan and shroud assembly by removing the 2 upper studs and the 2 lower screws. Unplug fan power connector. Lift fan/shroud assembly up and out of the car.
1B: Using the screws on the tank as a guide, mark the shroud at the 2 points where the mounting screws touch. (See figure 1). If you have a front mount intercooler, you will need to move the holes out to the rounded edge, to allow the tank to clear the IC tubing. Using a 3/16" bit, drill two mounting holes in the shroud. Attach the tank to the shroud and tighten the 2 nuts.
(see figure 2) Now Re-Install shroud with tank into car.
Step 2- Drill inlet pipe
2A: Use a marker to draw a line on the lower end underneath side of the inlet pipe where the intercooler hose stops. Remove inlet pipe and clean exterior. Drill a 3/8" hole approximately 2" up from the line you made. (see figure 3) (BE SURE TO DRILL THE LOWER END!) Front mount users- nozzle can be installed on the left or right side of the throttle body end of the inlet pipe, approximately 2" back from where the intercooler hose stops. Clean any shavings out from inside the pipe.
Step 3: Install Nozzle Assembly
Unscrew the nozzle from the elbow assembly. Use a ViseGrip pliers to place the nozzle (with washer) inside the inlet pipe and with the nozzle threads poking through the hole you drilled. Screw the elbow assembly onto the nozzle threads and tighten securely with a 1/2" wrench. You want the open end of the elbow to end up pointing toward the alcohol tank. If the assembly still moves some after tightening....don't worry! Mix up a small batch of JB Quik Weld or another epoxy putty and apply around the elbow on the outside of the inlet pipe. (See Figure 4) As it starts to set, you can use a wet finger to mold it tightly . Let JB Weld set till it's good and hard.
Re-install inlet pipe.. You may now screw in the braided steel line into the brass elbow, tighten with a 7/16"wrench on the line and a 1/2" wrench on the ELBOW. Now screw the other end of the hose onto the tank fitting and tighten with 9/16" and 1/2" wrenches. (Figure 5)
Step 4: Route Wiring Harness
Attach the connectors on the end of the grey cable to the matching connectors on the alcohol tank. Route the cable around the battery, under the coolant tank, and along the passenger side fenderwell. Continue along the firewall and through the hole you use for guage wiring. If you don't already have a hole, you can drill one (use supplied grommet) or poke a hole through the steering column gasket. Use plastic wire ties to keep things neat.
Step 5- Install Speed Control Box
Pull the excess cable through to the inside of the car. Trim the extra length and carefully strip off about an inch of the grey covering. Now strip about 1/4" of the 4 inner wires. Use a straight screwdriver to attach the 4 wires to the 4 terminals on the control box. The wires are connected in this
order: BLACK-RED-GREEN-WHITE. (See Figure 6) There is a RED & BLACK wire pair coming from inside the controller- The RED goes to +12 volts (IGN
TERMINAL) at the fusebox, and the BLACK to an under dash ground. (Use drill and supplied screw) Now mount the control box to the side of the dash, to the left of the center A/C vents.. (see Figure 7) Clean the area well with alcohol and let dry. Remove the backing from the velcro on the box, and press FIRMLY into position. Now run the wiring down and under the dash area.
The clear line needs to tap into a boost source....either tap into the line (under dash) you ran to your aftermarket boost guage, or route the line through the firewall to a boost source. (use supplied grommet) Use the supplied tee to tap into the boost source. Then firmly push the clear line from the speed control box onto the tee, using a drop of super glue on each connection for safety.
Step 6- Fill Tank!
For best results fill the tank with DENATURED ALCOHOL from a home supply store like Lowe's or Home Depot. (around $9 per gallon) You can also use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in either 70 or 90% strength. The DENATURED Alcohol works better . For long pump life we recommend using 1/2 oz/tank of an alcohol lubricant such as "Uplon" (part#kl-107) made by Klotz. For a dealer in your area check
Klotz Synthetic Lubricants or order from SMC. For a quick test, START THE CAR and then turn the pump speed control dial (top dial) to the 12 o'clock position. ( The "ARMED" green lite will come on) Now if you press the red "TEST" button on top of the control box the system will activate. The pump should run, alcohol will fill the line to the nozzle and the motor should stumble from the spray. This verifies proper wiring. NEVER LET THE PUMP SIT IN AN EMPTY TANK!!!!! IT WILL DRY OUT & KILL IT!!
TUNING TIPS:
1: The "Spray On Point" Dial (lower dial) is a MULTI-TURN control that sets the level of boost you want the spray to come on at. The system is factory set for about 10 psi. Turn the dial clockwise to raise the "ON" boost level, or counterclockwise to decrease the "ON" boost level.. You will need to experiment since each car is different.
2: Start with the "PUMP SPEED" dial (upper dial) set between MIN & MAX and make a test pass. If the car bogs or seems to hesitate at WOT, turn it down a bit till it doesn't bog., or increase boost if you are not seeing retard.
So far I've run 23# boost on 93 octane pump gas with a TE-44, Blue Tops, TH DP, Precision FM IC and a 29 degree RACE chip. This netted an11.66 @115 mph.
Good Luck and enjoy the system!
