Snapped head bolt

[Ttype83]

I was putting the car back together today and on the last torque sequence, one of them snapped about a 1/4 inch below the block.
So I have 2 ?'s

1. What is the best method to remove it?

2. Can I still use the head gasket?

This sucks.... I bought ARP bolts so that I wouldn't have to worry about this. Now I cann't call them untill monday.

TIA
Jim

 

[fc227]

Jim

All is not lost. I did this once my self, remove the head. I was able to get a fine point punch in the hole and GENTLLY tap the broken bolt so it backs out. Or you may be able to get a Needle nose pliers on it to back it out. It came out pretty easy for me because there was no tension on the broken bolt. What ever you do be careful not to nick the block deck or bum the treads up in the block.

As for the head gasket, I did reuse my, but that is also the one that blew about a year later when I sucked the tank dry and leaned the engine out. So you best bet is to replace the head gasket.

That’s my two-cent's

 

[Ttype83]

Originally posted by fc227
What ever you do be careful not to nick the block deck or bum the treads up in the block.

Thanks Fred, neighor is going to help me tap it out. He works of aircraft engines has had to do this a few times.

Call ARP today and they are going to send me a complete set at no cost. This makes me VERY HAPPY.

But, when using ARP bolts & lube the torque is lower
65 ft lbs verses 80 ft lbs OEM. We may need to add this info on ower web pages. Or am I the only idot.

Jim

 

[kary]

This may sound unbelievable, but I have had this work and it is worth a try before trying more complicated methods.

In my case, the bolt was lubed and clean. It broke off at lease 3/4 inch in the block. I used a pencil type, but strong, magnet and just started turning it counter-clockwise and the broken piece came out. It took several more turns than you would think., but it worked. May sound luckey, but I had it work with a bolt in a rear end also.

 

[Ttype83]

Thanks Guys,
First I let it sit with WD40 on it all night and most of the next day.
Tried using my needle noses and it turned about 1/3 then stoped.
No biggie, sprayed more WD40 and the neighor started drilling....
got the easy out in and turned 3/4 then stop, while we were trying to move it more the easy out snapped off....crap. Drilled asmall hole beside it to try and pry it out..no luck there, so drilled it a little bigger and used a smaller easy out and it snapped off.
3 or 4 hours trying to drill out the easy outs and we got the forst one out. Pencil drill is next.

 

[kary]

Another method I have used is to use a reverse drill bit. You have to drill a hole anyway. Sometimes the broken bolt will unscrew at the same time as you are drilling.

 

[b4black]

If it's resisting that much, I would start to think either it was cross threaded or the threads were very icky to begin with. With no load on the bolt, it should spin right out.

 

[Ttype83]

Originally posted by b4black
If it's resisting that much, I would start to think either it was cross threaded or the threads were very icky to begin with.

We got it out today, it was stuck because when it snapped part of the outside thread twisted out aswell putting pressure on it. Using the pencil drill we were able to drill out most of the inside without walking the drill. The first hole was not centered, so the easy out was off center.

I drill guide would have provented this to begin with.
Now just waiting on parts again.

 

[b4black]

Great, I bet that's a load off your mind.


You are gonna run a tap down that hole to clean it up right?

 

[Ttype83]

Yes that is a big load off my mind. I borrowed a tap set and had it waiting when we got the bolt out. Now if I can get it back together and running good before 22 june for the Sliver Dollar race day. Hoping to improve my R/T and drop the 1/4 by 1.5 secs.
Sense I held back on the first trip, I'll up the boost to stock and see want I get.