So my 1986 Cutlass with 3800 S2 L67 is apart...

[Trannyman95]

I pulled the engine about a month ago to replace a chipped piston- that ended up not be chipped. A weak fuel pump from several years ago caused it to go lean at high rpm and burned the head gasket pretty good for cyl 3 and 4 area and cyl 1 had a piston with part of the skirt on the thrust side that melted and the top ring was fused into this area and caused a rattle noise at higher rpm and load. I found a few other issues that I am fixing in the valve train and will have the engine buttoned back up soon.

I thought this may be a great time to work on mounts new motor mounts so I will see what I can do. The only issue I have with my car is that I notched the frame on the passenger side to clear the F-body location AC compressor. I am currently using Oldsmobile V8 mounts and what I have used on other G-bodies for these swaps and works out ok well but not exactly a direct bolt-on mount. My goal was to be able to use the old 3.8 V6 mounts on the frame side and make new engine side mounts that will bolt up with no modifications to the block side.

Several guys have asked for mounts and as long as my notched frame is not a road block- I think this is the time to see what I can do for this for swaps. The car has been supercharged for the past 8 years and I thought about going turbo if I ever took it back apart, but I still have goals I want to meet with the SC setup so I am keeping it supercharged for now. It ran a best of 12.21 right after I got it together and wanted to hit 11.80s. The Pacesetter 1.5" primary Fbody headers not only fit poorly to the car but also are choking off top end and don't match the heads well at all so I am planning to build a custom set of headers for this too with 1 3/4" primaries.

 

[murphinator]

glad to see your still playing with the L67 g body , always enjoyed seeing what you did with this and Cody's L67 GN on here .

I believe I still have several L67 piston/rod assemblies kicking around in my used parts bin so if you don't already have that covered let me know how many you need and I will shoot you a price to cover shipping and a shilling or 2 to cover my time to ship them - not looking to retire on them I know how much you do to help out the community.

 

[GBGN1]

I pulled the engine about a month ago to replace a chipped piston- that ended up not be chipped. A weak fuel pump from several years ago caused it to go lean at high rpm and burned the head gasket pretty good for cyl 3 and 4 area and cyl 1 had a piston with part of the skirt on the thrust side that melted and the top ring was fused into this area and caused a rattle noise at higher rpm and load. I found a few other issues that I am fixing in the valve train and will have the engine buttoned back up soon.

I thought this may be a great time to work on mounts new motor mounts so I will see what I can do. The only issue I have with my car is that I notched the frame on the passenger side to clear the F-body location AC compressor. I am currently using Oldsmobile V8 mounts and what I have used on other G-bodies for these swaps and works out ok well but not exactly a direct bolt-on mount. My goal was to be able to use the old 3.8 V6 mounts on the frame side and make new engine side mounts that will bolt up with no modifications to the block side.

Several guys have asked for mounts and as long as my notched frame is not a road block- I think this is the time to see what I can do for this for swaps. The car has been supercharged for the past 8 years and I thought about going turbo if I ever took it back apart, but I still have goals I want to meet with the SC setup so I am keeping it supercharged for now. It ran a best of 12.21 right after I got it together and wanted to hit 11.80s. The Pacesetter 1.5" primary Fbody headers not only fit poorly to the car but also are choking off top end and don't match the heads well at all so I am planning to build a custom set of headers for this too with 1 3/4" primaries.

Jack the engine as high as it will go and cut the boss off the block and use the stock mounts. Like in my thread and lonnie did it that way too. Engine fit is great with them

 

[GBGN1]

I think down the road if this would happen to me. I think it will be time to change pistons and rods. Intense was working on some new good priced forged rods besides the k1's. I think Wiseco has some good aftermarket pistons at a good price. Id like to see pics of your car if you have any.
thanks much
Brian

 

[Wahoo]

Cool, I think this car is awesome! Can't wait to see what you come up with!

 

[Trannyman95]

Thanks guys. Short block has been back together for a few weeks, just waiting to get heads back from machine shop to put top end back together. The L67 is a very stout block- the pistons just don't tolerate going lean much at all and then the top ring lands break. This time is still stock pistons but the fuel issue is fixed so not really a concern. I have also been file fitting the top ring for a little more breathing room. I used the Speed Pro replacement pistons for last 5 or 6 3800s I built and they have worked great and is also what is in our turbo GP. The top ring land is moved down quite a bit so is no longer a problem that I have worried about and half the cost of the forged pistons readily available. I am yet to see a failed L67 rod (aside spun bearings from debris in oil) though I am not opposed to a nice forged piece. I talk to John at Intense frequently and we have discussed the forged rods also. This car will likely never see more than 375-400whp on E85 and current engine being supercharged. If I ever have time to hit my goal with this engine then I will move forward but not sure what will go back in.

Mount wise- no go. This car originally had Oldsmobile V8 mounts so I never had the 3.8 mounts to work with and all in all wasn't a bad deal at all and I like the tucked-down fitment of the mounts better than the V6 mounts. I bought some used frame side 3.8 mounts from someone on here last winter and just looked at them last night. Not going to happen. I had to notch and box in the frame quite a bit on the passenger side to clear the low mount F-body AC compressor arrangement-which unfortunately in the process lost front and upper frame side mount hole so there is nothing to bolt that side to. The mount would hit the AC compressor regardless so I will have to keep the Olds mounts on this frame. I can't cut the boss of the side of the block as I use this for a bracket. I could always go Buick 3.8 V6 mount on drivers side but doesn't really do much for me since I can't build both.

I will try to dig up some pictures, haven't taken any in a while other than what is on our Triple Edge Performance FB page. Front end is all apart now as I am redoing front suspension and getting rid of horrible poly bushings I installed a long time ago. Fbody front brakes, new Moog upper control arms and bushings, Howe tall lower ball joints. I hope it cleans up the ride a bit! I have enjoyed corner carving and high end car audio more with this car the past 5 years so dragstrip outtings took a back seat to the priority list..

 

[GBGN1]

Right with the gbody accessories The 3.8 mounts wouldn't work. Had a brain fart. That's why I came up with my set up. With my set up it just works so nice. But it was work getting everything to work. I've talked to john plenty of times to and his tech. The tech said a few months ago they were working on a new rod, sounded good. I agree with hp over 500 they said a forged unit would be best but others have gone 10's on cast ,stock set up. Again all depending on tune. Glad your still working on your car. As time gos on I'm sure others will join the club. I would have had my car on the
Road too but like u said. I rebuilt front end/ s10 upgraded front brakes/ installing new body mounts/ and all the custom work takes time.