Spool up time on a TE44 with stock converter
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
way too long.i have seen 44's on a stock motor move the boost gauge so fast you can barely see the needle.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,728
I'm at around 2400 RPM when I launch, definitely some issue. I'm pretty sure I remember it taking about a second to 25PSI. Anyway, I have a rebuilt 109 block on its way(it won't be in until next year) with GN1 heads. So I will be getting a new turbo. Most likely from you. Either a 6265 or 6466. However, it would sure be nice to figure out why it is taking longer to build boost. Before I pull my current block, I'm going to double check all my hoses and clamps, exhaust headers and crossover pipe and see if there are any sources of leaking. Short of that, either something is wrong with the trans or the turbo is shot.
Attached are a couple of PL data files.
Running a TT 6.0 with 60# injectors, with WB correct turned off for now. WBO2 sensor is dead, I think. 93 with alky, usually run 25 PSI(running 22- 23 now). Base spark is set 21/23 and I'm using the default fueling that was burned on the chip, I haven't adjusted it, since I just turned off the WBO2 correction and the NBO2 readings are between .750 to .850 volts and I'm not seeing any knock.
Last edited:
Good idea to look at the most common things first. The converter I have is a D5, it's supposed to be restalled to 3000, but from what I've read a D5 can't be restalled to 3000, 2600 or 2800 is the limit.
That's what I thought. Car is running like a pig. I have a rebuilt 109 going in this winter, along with a rebuilt trans with a converter to match which turbo I get. Most likely will be a 6265 from Bison. However, it would be nice to solve this issue. Because the motor, trans, converter, turbo and upgraded fueling system are going to be a pretty penny when all is said and done.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,726
log shows converter is tight
i wouldnt call it restalled
2100 at 0psi and really no flash 6psi is at 2600
and youre rich on the spoolup isnt helping either .. well over 850s
i wouldnt call it restalled
2100 at 0psi and really no flash 6psi is at 2600
and youre rich on the spoolup isnt helping either .. well over 850s
If your going through the whole car like that in the winter,I would even chase my tail at this point,start taking it apart now
as far as the turbo to me alot of turbos overlap each other and you should pick one based off the amount of power and response time you want and can afford to makeWith this run I have my battery voltage set to 15v with the volt booster. I wonder if I'm spraying too much alky because of the higher voltage. I didn't like that my voltage was jumping up at 10PSI so I put a check valve on the RA volt booster and set to the pressure so the the alternator is pumping out 15v.
I think I got jobbed on the converter. Anyway, on spool-up what range should the O2 be in?
It would be nice to figure it out, because once the new engine goes in I won't be taking any chances. On the other hand, yes the engine will be pulled and the parts I'll be reusing, intake, headers, dp, crossover will be taken care of by my engine builder. He actually test the engine and in my case he will be helping me install everything.If your going through the whole car like that in the winter,I would even chase my tail at this point,start taking it apart now
A stock d5 is about 2200@ 5-6psi. A small % of the ones built with diesel cores were 2400. This is plenty for a t04e60 with stage 3 turbine with no leaks and no fueling issues. It may be lazy with any other housing but a Garrett .63. It's been 10's on unopened engines with the stock converter. The purple wire on the PAC can be utilized to prevent loading with methanol. You could do it through a relay with a pressure switch or a leaf switch on the brake pedal. You must be sure the purple wire isn't grounded when it spools or it will detonate
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a few more weeks to play around with the car before it needs to come apart. I'm going to search for any exhaust leaks and I'm going to try tune it. Since I don't have WBO2 correction turned on I will need to tune it manually. I'll start by turning down the alky a little. I know I'm spraying more than usual because my voltage is higher than before.
Thanks for the input. Sounds like a couple of things could be wrong. My car was tuned and pulling hard last year. A couple of things changed. I had to replace my crank sensor, I bought a used ignition module and coil pack and my it appears my WBO2 is no good, I have a replacement on the way, but I would like to learn how to tune manually. I have my alternator voltage pushing 15v, always. I should be able to narrow this down before I have to pull my engine. At this point in time it appears that I'm bogging down the engine with too much fuel.
However, I will do a thorough job of checking the exhaust system for leaks.
However, I will do a thorough job of checking the exhaust system for leaks.
Last edited:
Well Chuck, any thoughts?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,728
Did you test the WB?
I see a volt booster in the mix. Have you tried shutting it off, and running "standard" system volts?
I wonder if your "restalled" D5 has laid the fins over? I was looking at a restall on mine. Talked to Dusty. He told me the same thing that Brian said. He also added, that the D5 restall to the 2800 range will produce a higher slip %.
I am setting my alky systems up w/ the purple wire active.
The used ign parts don't sound good. My car had a weak spark. I tested it, and came w/ a bad module.
Virtually no spark at idle on 2/4. Had to get to near 2500 to see it, again. I went thru several NEW modules at Advance, and gave up. Bought a GM from Hiway Stars.
Thanks Chuck. As far the converter, I noticed when I changed it out from stock that my RPM was spinning up to 5400 to 5500 before shifting and I think this lead to my stock valvetrain not being able to handle the higher RPM. Last night I discovered a broken rocker shaft on the intake for cylinder 1. So that's it, I'm not going to bother fixing it at this point. I have a 109 rebuild underway and whether my trans get rebuild or I buy one from Dave or Lonnie, it will be swapped out as well. A new converter will be bought as well. I'm either going to go with 6265 or 6466. Which ever turbo will get me in the low 10s. I have a lot of upgrades to do.
The ign parts that you bought that weren't up to par, do you remember the brand? I bought a Standard Motor Products Lx338 ICM($120) and SMP DR36 coil pack($62) from Rock Auto. I couldn't find AC Delco parts at the time that were reasonably priced. Someone had a set for sale for $400. After I purchased these, I then found the AC Delco available at both High Stars and Rock Auto. Rock Auto has the AC Delco ICM it's $170, they don't carry an AC Delco coil pack.
It's too late to return the SMP ICM and coil pack. I hope they work as well as the AC Delco and the difference in price was do to name brand.
We'll see, I bought check valves from AZ they both failed above 15psi. I then bought AC Delco CV from HS and I tested them to -25psi and 30psi with my mity-vac. So I know there is a difference is quality at least between AC Delco and knock off parts.
Similar threads
