I have a LOT of surge with my TE44. The Air Tornado in my intake helped it to the point it no longer knocks and backfires but it's still there and the alky makes it worse. 7-15psi and it's surging. Will simply changing from my stock D5 to a 2800 stall converter help with this at all? In theory, if the engine is pumping at a higher rpm, them maybe it'll eat the part throttle boost better? It's bad enough to the point I'm thinking of getting a turbo with the ported shroud, but I don't need a different turbo for my 11.50 goals. I love my 44 and I find it hard to believe that my combo, basically a recipe car, isn't causing the same issues for other people unless I'm hopefully missing something simple. Anyone out there dealing with surge on a 44 even with a stall converter? TIA. This is a street car first and foremost.
Stall converter and surge
- Thread starter we4Mateo
- Start date
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first of all , if you had your engine knock and backfire before Tornado then you should look into this problem first ,I used TE44 long time ago and had some surge issues and Tornado fixed it 100% but there was no other simptoms like backfire you mentioned , TC stall has nothing to do with it , start with your basics for knock/lean like FP regulator or pump or MAF , backfire like fuel lean or ignition issues ,cam sensor ,I had caspers cam sensor with LED's causing backfire once, start with basic checks and report back.
The car doesn't backfire at all anymore. The tornado fixed that as mentioned. Without alky and low boost it's fine, but with alky turning on @ 7psi, it comes back. Car runs fine but you can feel the unsmooth airflow. The turbo outflows the motor at part throttle, so how do I fix this? The stock MAF had no surge issues, so are you saying I should go back to a stock MAF since that fixed the surge issue? And without alky at 7psi, then 20psi is a no go. Can you run 20psi and alky without surge? Anyone else doing it? What makes the difference?
And everything you mention has been replaced and rechecked prior to this post. I race and drive the car a lot and it's fine at the track and the street all the time @ 20psi and above and below 7-10psi. I'm really at a loss.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
You have a very basic combo, that has been proven since the 90's. You are having other problems. Get rid of the akly until you learn how to tune. You are flooding it out.
I plus that , turn off alky and make sure it's all good then ,sure looks like it's alky related problem , I never used SMC ,don't know much about it ,myself have been using Razor progressive alky for long time , is your SMC kit progressive ?
the SMC kit is progressive. I've already spoken with Julio about switching kits this Winter since I can't get a backup pump as SMC is out of business. Even with alky off though, the car will still surge at 10 psi even with the lean running TT alky chip less alky.
I'm fine tuning the car at WOT but how do I tune out surge after the Alky is already off @ part throttle? FPs are good and my O2s are stable but the airflow is not smooth. Maybe Patrick can chime in?
just for the record , how far from the turbo inlet is tornado installed on your car ?
It's right on the end of the inlet bell. I slid the intake on over it in place there.
I'm using the RJC controller and a newish actuator and both seem to work well. I've used a nonHD actuator as well for low boost, no-alky testing and it still surges @ 10psi.
Are there any ways to tune surge out without drastically changing the motor mechanically? Someone suggested I learn how to tune, but I thought surge was more of a compressor map vs engine efficiency issue. I'd love to just be able to adjust the chip or something if that is possible or would even help. I've spoken with Eric @ TT and he didn't seem to think there was much that could be done with the chip. I was hoping a stall converter would help but most say no. Would a healthier cam help? Maybe the engine picks up efficiency that way and would better match the compressor output map. Thoughts?
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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- Jan 31, 2006
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i am having a similar issue with my car but it started after i switched to a higher stall.
i have just been dealing with it, but sometimes it just gets annoying
it also feels like the engine is getting too much air for the amount of throttle that is being applied then just sortta dies (Not completely but noticeable).
its like that magic spot no boost to Full boost with NO/OR very little middle ground.
I just got an idea i'll post it later
i have just been dealing with it, but sometimes it just gets annoying
it also feels like the engine is getting too much air for the amount of throttle that is being applied then just sortta dies (Not completely but noticeable).
its like that magic spot no boost to Full boost with NO/OR very little middle ground.
I just got an idea i'll post it later
I'm eagerly waiting as your post has me worried. I was hoping a stall converter would help but I suppose the engine at a higher rpm would spin the turbo even easier and maybe make surge worse? I'm really waiting for some expert advise on this topic.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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- Jan 31, 2006
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i Very very rarely got it before as i had a tight D5 and 3.08 gears i never went above 2300-2500 RPM while just cruising
ever since i went to the 9.5 3000 stall it started to show up and now with the 3.42 gears it's really friendly.
i guess the converter is doing its job in allowing the turbo to spool but dam slow up just a Smidget
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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- Jan 31, 2006
- Messages
- 8,819
i have no idea on how to properly fix this.
but i bet that if i put the Precision exhaust housing back on the turbo, the surge would not show up so frequently.
but i bet that if i put the Precision exhaust housing back on the turbo, the surge would not show up so frequently.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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- May 7, 2002
- Messages
- 3,847
Take the RJC boost controller off and test with the stock solenoid.
