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stalling when hot??

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When my MAF went bad at 1st it was intermittent and then it was done and rand like total crap....wouldn't go over 20 mph. Another thing you may want to look at is the fuel pump...mine failed last Fall. The symptoms were very similar...started right up but after it ran a while it would shut off and would not start back up for a few minutes. I do have a in-car fuel pressure gauge so I was able to tell the pump was failing when I saw the fuel pressure fall to 20-15 psi before it cut off. At 1st I didn't even consider the fuel pump but I just happened to look at my fuel pressure gauge when it was shutting off and saw the falling pressure. If I didn't have the gauge I'm not so sure I would have figured it out so quick especially since my pump was new with only about 400 miles on it. Might be worth looking at.


Scott

I"ll check that stuff before I spend more cash on a crank sensor. My FP guage is under the hood but it will reach out to the windshild. Where the heck can you still find good reliable MAF's? I've heard the aftermarket stuff is like a 1 in 10 chance of being a turbo buick one. LOL I just rememberd I have two turbo cars... I suppose I could swap them out:smile:
 
Where the heck can you still find good reliable MAF's? I've heard the aftermarket stuff is like a 1 in 10 chance of being a turbo buick one. LOL I just rememberd I have two turbo cars... I suppose I could swap them out:smile:


one of the reasons I switched to the LT1 MAF & Translator from FullThrottle...more reliable and room to grow ;)
 
I sure hope its not my fuel pump. I just ordered a new crank sensor. 55 bucks. I'll try that, cause replacing the feul pump is going to be a pain!!!.. Atleast I know for sure it's not maf or ign.
 
I sure hope its not my fuel pump. I just ordered a new crank sensor. 55 bucks. I'll try that, cause replacing the feul pump is going to be a pain!!!.. Atleast I know for sure it's not maf or ign.

Fuel pumps are easy as long as you drain the gas, pull the rear end drop the tank and have a lift :( .... no wonder so many people cut holes in the hatch. (not TTA people I hope) Belive me I've done two (the proper way) and I really really hope it's not the pump.
 
so far so good

ok well I have just finished driving around all night, boosting to about 21 #s trying to heat up the car after placing a new crank sensor. I think this has solved my problems. Not one stall. Although I did not get the car that hot I did boost alot, but ambient temp is about 12 degrees Celcius.

I hope this is my solution!! It is strange not to be stalled on the side of the road somewhere. What am I gonna complain about now???

THank Goodness it is not the fuel pump.... knock on wood! ! ! !

I will update this thread if car begins to stall again.

As for now, car is good with a new crank sensor.
 
Fuel pumps are easy as long as you drain the gas, pull the rear end drop the tank and have a lift :( .... no wonder so many people cut holes in the hatch. (not TTA people I hope) Belive me I've done two (the proper way) and I really really hope it's not the pump.

If you have mad fabrication skills ;) you can go in through the top and not ruin the car...see my post on http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tu...how-change-tta-fuel-pump-30-minutes-less.html :eek: With nearly 4,000 veiws If I could find a way to make this easy for most to do I could sell a ton of kits to F-body guys all over the place. :cool:

If I had a lift maybe I wouldn't have done it...but 400 miles later when I changed my defective Walbro at the track and then drove it back home I'm real glad I did!!! Put a new Walbro in last weekend in less then a hour...;)



Scott
 
tell ya what it looks like you did a good job. can you get those special tools at Harbor Freight?
 
Hey I just want to confirm that the solution to my stalling when hot problem was definately the new crank shaft sensor. Just for anyone else with this problem reading this thread.

Jarred.
 
Hey I just want to confirm that the solution to my stalling when hot problem was definately the new crank shaft sensor. Just for anyone else with this problem reading this thread.

Jarred.

I already bought mine how much of a PITA was it to get on? according to the book they want the damn front of the engine pulled off... (inter cooler, balancer etc.) My bud said it can be done from under the car though.
 
It took me 5 min to replace my crank sensor......

You need 1. new sensor
2. 13mm cresent wrench
3. small wrench to loosen old sensor.

Here is what you do......

1. loosen small bolt on crank sensor bracket.
2. use 13mm wrench on intercooler fan bolt to turn engine so notch in the balancer alows for sensor removal.
3. undo crank sensor wire pigtail
4. remove crank sensor
5. place new sensor into bracket.
6. use 13mm wrench to turn engine and ensure clearance of balancer within sensor.
7. tighten sensor in place by tightening small bolt on sensor bracket.
8. plug pigtail wire back into sensor.

Done.

Well this is what I did anyway.

Jarred.
 
Crankshaft sensor is also a comon problem on all 3.8 engines. Had that happen to me before.
 
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