Reading the GNTTYPE instructions for timing chain swap, it says to start the engine and verify the oil light goes out. This is done before the coolant was put back in and before the MAF was connected. Does the engine start this way and is it bad for the water pump to run dry?
Starting engine with no coolant and MAF
- Thread starter BJM
- Start date
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Mr URL
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
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- 674
Yes, it will run - just don't run it long.
You can also crank the engine with the ECM orange wire disconnected. That way the engine doesn't start up incase no oil pressure at all. Just watch until the OIL light eventually goes out then you have oil pressure. Don't crank the starter continuous more than a few seconds at a time.
You can also crank the engine with the ECM orange wire disconnected. That way the engine doesn't start up incase no oil pressure at all. Just watch until the OIL light eventually goes out then you have oil pressure. Don't crank the starter continuous more than a few seconds at a time.
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There can be many different ways of doing thing to our cars that generally get us to the same place. Verifying oil pressure is one of these items. He is my opinion and method.
Let me first say a normal rebuild is a "couple" thousand dollars. I refuse to short cut a procedure as important as verifying oil pressure for a few extra minutes or a few dollars for a priming tool, and maybe ruining a motor.
There are many people that say it does not hurt anything to crank the motor and see if oil pressure comes up. Since metal-to-metal is what ruins bearings and they MUST have an oil film to survive, I refuse to do this. If it is my motor, or someone else's, there is too much at stake.
The '86-7 turbo Buicks have the easiest oil pump to prime by using the cooler lines. Take a drill motor and priming tool, run oil pressure for a minute or 2 [or more!]. You can also see if there are any leaks at this point.
The info on the GN list was provided by someone that has his way of doing the operation. You are not going to hurt the water pump, but the bearings??????????
Let me first say a normal rebuild is a "couple" thousand dollars. I refuse to short cut a procedure as important as verifying oil pressure for a few extra minutes or a few dollars for a priming tool, and maybe ruining a motor.
There are many people that say it does not hurt anything to crank the motor and see if oil pressure comes up. Since metal-to-metal is what ruins bearings and they MUST have an oil film to survive, I refuse to do this. If it is my motor, or someone else's, there is too much at stake.
The '86-7 turbo Buicks have the easiest oil pump to prime by using the cooler lines. Take a drill motor and priming tool, run oil pressure for a minute or 2 [or more!]. You can also see if there are any leaks at this point.
The info on the GN list was provided by someone that has his way of doing the operation. You are not going to hurt the water pump, but the bearings??????????
I should have mentioned that I have indeed primed the pump with an electric drill and a tool made from an old Chevy HEI distributor shaft. I have oil pressure no problem. I was mostly wondering if the engine would start without the MAF hooked up.
I am ready to test start it if I conect up my crank sensor. Otherwise I have to fill the coolant up and put the IC and all the air pipes back in.
Since I have oil pressure, is it okay to fire it up with the engine with nothing connected to the throttle body?
I am ready to test start it if I conect up my crank sensor. Otherwise I have to fill the coolant up and put the IC and all the air pipes back in.
Since I have oil pressure, is it okay to fire it up with the engine with nothing connected to the throttle body?
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Sure!
blackbuick87
Senior Member
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- 3,205
Mine started right away and then revved to about 2000 rpms. If you try to put it in gear it will stall
