Starting T-Type After LONG Term Storage

[87_TX_T-Type]

Have you tried heating up the the down pipe to pull it apart?

I saw a few other threads that mentioned this, but unfortunately I don't have anything hot enough. Besides if I'm going that route, I figured it would be quicker/easier/cheaper to give it to a muffler shop to pull apart.

Going to give "snaking" it in another shot this afternoon.

 

[pmesfun]

You try taking off the passenger side header?

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[87_TX_T-Type]

You try taking off the passenger side header?

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It was off, but I put it back on before the DP. Is it absolutely necessary to have it off? If I take off the header and put on the DP, will I then have an issue putting the header back on because the DP might be in the way?

 

[pmesfun]

That's how I do it. I couldn't get my downpipe off with the header in the way. Putting the header back on is not a problem. I'm in Dallas if you need a hand.

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[Gary Durden]

Take it to a muffler shop, have them heat it up and then pull it apart. Done.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

That's how I do it. I couldn't get my downpipe off with the header in the way. Putting the header back on is not a problem. I'm in Dallas if you need a hand.

Am I missing something here? Like unbolting the turbo form the bracket? Otherwise, I'll also be pulling the turbo oil lines, the intake, the ground, the two bolts in the front of the head, the vacuum lines, the 02 sensor...

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Take it to a muffler shop, have them heat it up and then pull it apart. Done.

Header on or off?

 

[Gary Durden]

Take the downpipe with the cat attached and have them heat it up and pull them apart. Then I would snake the downpipe from the top and then re-attach the cat. Good luck.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

When I had this issue I cut the pipe/joint between the down pipe and cat. Then welded on a V-band clamp. Made it nice and easy to drop the cat for some transmission work.

Muffler shop should be able to do this work for you. The only thing to watch for is the total length, don't want to change that.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

When I had this issue I cut the pipe/joint between the down pipe and cat. Then welded on a V-band clamp. Made it nice and easy to drop the cat for some transmission work.

Muffler shop should be able to do this work for you. The only thing to watch for is the total length, don't want to change that.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Took it to the muffler shop today. The guy put an acetylene torch to it, and had it pulled apart (not cut) within about three minutes. $20, so worth it. Did a quick test fit in the engine bay tonight, and had no problem snaking it down from the top. Just had to turn it upside down, then turn it right-side-up as I moved it down. It still bumps against the AC box a bit in the process, but again not an issue with the AC shield off, x-pipe off, but header/turbo still on. I still need to make sure I can slide it into the receiving end of the cat.

Will the U-bolt connecting the down pipe to the cat be sufficient to "seal" the pipes up again? I figure since the cat is gutted, there shouldn't be too much back pressure at that joint.

 

[turbo87adam]

I'm not sure how the 2 mating pipes look after the separation process? But I would use a band style muffler clamp so it will come apart much easier in the future. That being said if the 2 pipes are out of shape they may not seal with a band clamp and a u clamp may be your easiest option.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Started the car very briefly today. Started up easy, but it's backfiring irregularly. (Kinda of like before.) Still sounds much better.

Per TT chip instructions I pulled the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator off before starting, but it surged and stayed around 2000 RPM (per the instructions I shut it down). No change on subsequent starts; however, the idle was more normal with the vacuum ON.

Time to troubleshoot. Maybe a video tomorrow.

 

[t-typinator]

I would keep an eye on the oil to make sure that whatever problem caused it to milkshake the first time has been fixed.


Usually a backfire is a big loud bang, is it doing that or more of a intermittent lower level popping .
What happens when you try to bring the rpms up?
Did you ever check out the cam and lifters for wear ?

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

I would keep an eye on the oil to make sure that whatever problem caused it to milkshake the first time has been fixed.


Usually a backfire is a big loud bang, is it doing that or more of a intermittent lower level popping .
What happens when you try to bring the rpms up?
Did you ever check out the cam and lifters for wear ?

The milkshake was caused by the valley pan gasket breaching, leading to coolant leaking down into the valley and into the crank case. I think the gasket breached due to age and possible backfiring through the intake, since the coolant/oil mixture was NOT present when I first picked up the car. Cam lobes and lifters, like the rest of the internals, look remarkably good. Engine sounds strong... just off, and idles too high around 2000 RPM.

I haven't had a chance to bring the RPMs up yet. I let it run for 10-15 seconds then shut it down. The backfiring/misfiring tells me there is an issue, so I prefer not to let it run unchecked. I'm getting some bangs and popping.

Here's the course of action I'm going to take:
1) Check plug wires. Although new, one boot does not "click" onto the top of the plug.
2) Visually check crank sensor. Make sure it is still in place.
3) Check dip switches on MAF translator again. Just to make sure it is in the correct mode.
4) Adjust cam sensor. I purchased one of those cam sensor tools, but oddly the sensor's orientation is now about 15 degrees of where I was when first removed it. I've heard the sensor tool is not perfect.
5) Pull coil. I have a spare... maybe it has an issue.
6) Change plugs. I'm using NEW platinum plugs, but not the NGK UR5s... maybe that's part of the issue.

(Injectors are new, and were tested for operation (9V battery) before being installed.)

Here's a quick clip. This is with the down pipe and x-pipe OFF and the FPR vacuum ON. Cold start. Unfortunately, without the pipes on it's hard to hear the more subtle noises.

So am I being too sensitive, and let it run longer? Maybe it all just needs to warm up?

 

[pmesfun]

Check plug wires

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[Lil Truck]

Just change the plugs and do a visual inspection of your wiring, vacuum lines, intake tubes and put the exhaust on so the O2 sensor can let the ECM learn. If did not sound bad other than the one pop. From what I heard?
Do you have a scan tool now?

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Just change the plugs and do a visual inspection of your wiring, vacuum lines, intake tubes and put the exhaust on so the O2 sensor can let the ECM learn. If did not sound bad other than the one pop. From what I heard?
Do you have a scan tool now?

The camera did pick up the one pop, but there is something else in there that the mic is not picking up. The high idle also bugs me... like the MAF signal is bad.
Plug wires are correct, but need to make sure that one is seated fully. I'll unplug and re-plug the rest of the wiring to make sure everything is seated.

I've got the ScanTool, just haven't put it on. That needs to be next on the list.

Quick question: How sensitive are these cars to types of plugs? I've had cars that very finicky to brand/gap, and others that are not.

 

[Lil Truck]

I have been told to never use platinum plugs in these cars, but I have not experienced the problems they make?

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

EUREKA!!!! It lives!!!!

Got the downpipe back on, then went about diagnosing the misfire... I had a suspicion that the some plug wires weren't seating firmly, so I pulled them off for inspection. (Thanks to all you guys that said "Check the wires.") That's when I found one of the plug connectors still attached to the spark plug. So much for fancy new plug wires.
View media item 361You can see the connector circled in red.

So I popped on the original AC Delco wires that are still in good condition, and... it sounds even better than I remember as a kid.

It did smoke a little at first, but that cleared out as all the cleaners/paint/crap burned off. Engine ran smooth. No backfires/misfires. The turbo appears to spool up just fine too.

The idle is still higher than I care for, but on subsequent starts it started to creep down a bit. (I couldn't run it too long or I would gas myself in the garage.) Hopefully it will get to a normal range once it has enough time to get broken in.

Now on to the PowerMaster and re-doing all the brakes. Finally I can sit on my butt for once.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Long time no update... The engine runs great, so I've taken my time rebuilding the front/rear brakes, replacing the combo valve, as well as cleaning and painting the wheel wells and underside of the car. (Cleaning 30 years of build up has been a chore.) All I can say is...

I HATE THESE (POWERMASTER) BRAKES.

I've bled them six ways from Sunday (including the MC) with a vacuum and by "foot", and still can't get squat. Actuator motor appears to be okay, but I think there is air still getting into the system. Additionally, the system was fully drained, but new fluid gets very dark on the driver's side of the reservoir as I flush the system. I'm wondering if all the seals in the MC are just goo after sitting so many years.

So here's my question... should I bother rebuilding the PowerMaster, or just save myself the headache and go to vacuum assist? From my recollection, the PowerMaster brakes on this car were a bit sketchy even on a good day.

The PowerMaster seal rebuild kits are about $40, but I don't know if this will solve the problem. From what I've read, vacuum assist will cost me around $300 with pedal and possibly save me some headache.