Yes, even at the new lower RPM shifting point, it still cut out at WOT downshift, or as it was about to hit another gear under hard acceleration. I never came anywhere near 6000RPM at this point. The TV cable is stretched pretty darn tight at WOT. I think it was so tight before I adjusted it that it stopped the throttle from reaching full WOT position.
Still Cutting Out At High RPMs. What To Try Next?
- Thread starter klmnla
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I quess the CR43 plugs are next. If this does not work, I can try a new coil and ignition module, as I I feel like I have done everything else. I wont leave out valve springs as an option also. Thanks for everyones advice. I take everyones suggestions and try to make logical steps to correct the problem. I also support the vendors on this site and have purchased parts from man of them. Thanks again.
While holding the throttle wide open,try pulling the TV cable more in the same direction. If you can,it's too loose.
Again,if it only cuts out during an up or down shift (during a rapid change in rpm) this is a classic cam sensor symptom. Have you tried moving the sensor a little in each direction?
You might want to try a friends complete coil/module set-up on your car to eliminate the possibly of coil/module.
NATHANIEL WILLIAMS
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Make sure your battery cables are not touching especially the one going to the starter. When you get to high rpm the motor starts to lean towards that side and headers will touch.
SS/GN
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Have a good look at plugs with magnifier,I have lots of problems with A/C delco.
Try NGK plugs.All other opinions are still possible.Good luck
Kevin
Try NGK plugs.All other opinions are still possible.Good luckKevin
Have a good look at plugs with magnifier,I have lots of problems with A/C delco.
Whats the best NGK plug to use on a mildly modified setup like mine?
Eric, i thought you said there was no rev limiter in your chips??
ngk ur5's
If your TPS is only going to 4.4Vdc wide open, then I wonder if its not going into fuel enrichment mode? I wonder if its is still trying to use the MAF sensor values to determine the injector offset /duty cycle. Maybe Eric can provide a little information on when the computer looks at the fuel tables and not the MAF?
Sounds good. Im going to install the NGK UR5s in about an hour. The TPS reading at WOT will probably be okay now, as I believe the TV cable was actually so tight, it was holding back max full throttle operation. I will know shortly. I would like to try another coil/ignition module before I start looking at valve springs as the problem.
Darnit!!! Put the UR5s in, gapped at .30, still cutting out at wot. It appears to cut out mainly at shift points. I even manually shifted from second to drive at wot, and it cut out and popped just as I was shifting. Someone mentioned I might try slight adjustments on the cam sensor. The LED looks good on the caspers cap, but maybe I will try slight adjustments to the cap and see if it helps.
It is going to be necessary to know what RPM you are shifting at. It could a range of things, but if it is clean right to the shift point, then that could be valve float. Valve float could be a combination of lifter limitation and/or valve springs.
Will the valve spring set that Kirbans has for $40.00 be okay to replace them with? Hopefully i can do this without removing the heads?
It's not your valve springs. The thing that makes it cut out isn't RPMs. You proved that when you made it shift at a lower RPM. The thing that always makes it cut out is a gear change. Cam sensor symptom. I can't say for sure that it's a cam sensor,but I can say for sure that it's not valve springs. This is a common cam sensor symptom.
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