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What bars are you referring to? What I'm talking about are not bars, they bolt to the rear end housing and to the top control arms to give them a better angle. I'm not referring to the HR SWAY BAR OR SPOHNS SWAY BAR.

I'll look him up too to see what you are referring to, =)
 
What bars are you referring to? What I'm talking about are not bars, they bolt to the rear end housing and to the top control arms to give them a better angle. I'm not referring to the HR SWAY BAR OR SPOHNS SWAY BAR.
Those things are refered to as "no hop bars".
 
Let me assure you of this fact. Stock uppers, boxed lowers, and stock swaybar...all with new bushings can net you 1.57 60' in a 12.00 car.
I have watched Barry Wood...akaTryMeGT, make a couple hundred passes over the last 5 years I have known him. He launches at 3500, not a certain boost. Unless you are faster or have entirely too much $$$ to spend, listen to Forcefed and the others. Cheap gas shocks work too.
Box in your arms, get some bushings, get some tires, and find out what your car likes.
Removing the front swaybar is good too, but some guys don't like the driving after. Test it out before you go taking a corner and forget you don't have it.

Coach
 
Those things are refered to as "no hop bars".

Yes exactly that's what they are called, well I was thinking about getting those "No hop bars" to get the tire to bite harder that the stock set up. I realize the stock setup "At the track" works but I want better traction NOT just at the tract or to make a decent street tire hook better for instance.
The HR sway bar or SPOHNS version would help also but the actual suspension is what should be plating the tires first. If the car won't react them the HR and Spohn sway would be useless except at the track with DRs or a slick. They should help keep the car more stable from keeping the body roll down to a minimum.
 
Those bars are as famous for ripping the ears off the axle as the south side machine bars for ripping the lower mounts off the frame. Get the set up from baseline and it will do the same thing and you can adjust the position of the uppers on the frame not to mention the axle position on each side to center the rear.:)
 
Those bars are as famous for ripping the ears off the axle as the south side machine bars for ripping the lower mounts off the frame. Get the set up from baseline and it will do the same thing and you can
adjust the position of the uppers on the frame not to mention the axle position on each side to center the rear.:)

Awesome I just found them, thanks for the tip my friend. So the No Hop Bars are NOT the way to go then right???
You mean these? The Pro Lunch Gold for the Grand National? http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm
 
That's them.:) Donnie Wang has been using them and his car has settled down quite a bit on launch and his 60 foot and times have improved.;)
 
9 second car with a 60 in the 1.2 area. He's running a destrocked engine at 224 CID and a 90 + MM turbo to see how far he can get it. His board name is AlkyV6 if you want to contact him:)

Ok I seen that car it hauls A$$ for sure and sounds like a freakin chainsaw on steroids! =)
 
9 second car with a 60 in the 1.2 area. He's running a destrocked engine at 224 CID and a 90 + MM turbo to see how far he can get it. His board name is AlkyV6 if you want to contact him:)

A friend of mine tells me the anti roll bar or sway bars from either HR or Spohns is waist of money that it don't really help,traction, I beg to differ, I can see it doing its part here also as it helps keep the car from twisting and waiting HP doing so. These other bars from baseline performance helps plants the tires too but not so much in the body roll department as my friend tends to think.
 
A friend of mine tells me the anti roll bar or sway bars from either HR or Spohns is waist of money that it don't really help,traction, I beg to differ, I can see it doing its part here also as it helps keep the car from twisting and waiting HP doing so. These other bars from baseline performance helps plants the tires too but not so much in the body roll department as my friend tends to think.
What you need to do also is scale the car so you know where the weight it in it. You should be able to get front to rear bias, cross weight bias, CG and weight each wheel has sitting on it. This is what most people fail to do and it can really hurt performance of the car on the track or street.
 
What you need to do also is scale the car so you know where the weight it in it. You should be able to get front to rear bias, cross weight bias, CG and weight each wheel has sitting on it. This is what most people fail to do and it can really hurt performance of the car on the track or street.


I agree
 
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