Stroker Crank

[boostmaster]

Just bought a stock journal stroker crank internally balanced what else do I need besides the rods and pistons (which I already have) to complete the machine work and installation? I'm not looking to go 9's or anything so I would like the most cost effective way for necessary parts and get the job done.

Thanks, Pete

 

[rogerv6]

Call Brian Webber from webber racing

 

[boostmaster]

Real advise please!!!

Call Brian Webber from webber racing

Man what is it with America these days???? You post a question in a forum full of knowledgeable people and the best that you can expect is a reply to call someone else. Please brothers and sisters at the risk of sounding like an a** ......if you can't give good sound advise in a post stop wasting the memory on TB.COM's server. You don't know how many times I've read simple questions posted by a member that get a 100 drive bys from people that absolutely can't give solid advise on a subject. Sure anyone can make a call to a vendor on this board but what do you think the board is for????? The yellow pages. Kinda makes you wonder why all the customer service jobs are being subed out to 3rd world countries.......anyone can read a que card!!!!:biggrin:

 

[gs462]

Man what is it with America these days???? You post a question in a forum full of knowledgeable people and the best that you can expect is a reply to call someone else. Please brothers and sisters at the risk of sounding like an a** ......if you can't give good sound advise in a post stop wasting the memory on TB.COM's server. You don't know how many times I've read simple questions posted by a member that get a 100 drive bys from people that absolutely can't give solid advise on a subject. Sure anyone can make a call to a vendor on this board but what do you think the board is for????? The yellow pages. Kinda makes you wonder why all the customer service jobs are being subed out to 3rd world countries.......anyone can read a que card!!!!:biggrin:

I agree here if you dont know the answer don't reply.

 

[fatride]

Well dont forget the netural (0) balanced hub or BHJ unit and flywheel.. Also there should be some additional clearencing to be done to the block with the stroker assembly. What size rods you going to use? What cam size?

 

[boostmaster]

Crank

Well dont forget the netural (0) balanced hub or BHJ unit and flywheel.. Also there should be some additional clearencing to be done to the block with the stroker assembly. What size rods you going to use? What cam size?

Well I don't remember what length the rods are, I'm currently out of the country, But they are for a stroker set up 0.30 over with the piston pins moved up in the piston. As far as the cam goes I think I'm going to go with a hydraulic roller set up no bigger than 218*. So are you saying that I can still use a stock type hub that is (0) balanced because those balancers are expensive. And where would the clearancing need to be done on the block?

Thanks, Pete

 

[9secWH1]

Usually it needs to be clearenced at the bottom of the cylinder bore. its usually where the rod would hit it. good luck

 

[boostmaster]

Clearence

Usually it needs to be clearenced at the bottom of the cylinder bore. its usually where the rod would hit it. good luck

The rods or the cylinder bore?

 

[ijames]

Assuming you mean a 3.625 stroke crank, you definitely have to cut away part of the oil passage from pickup to front of block to clear the crank, and either sleeve it when you break through or get lucky. You may need to notch the bottoms of the cylinders to clear the crank, and maybe also the pan rails. Might also have to grind on the rods a little to clear the cam, depending on what rods and what base circle diameter cam. That's all standard stuff that machine shops that build strokers know about, and that keeps it from just being a bolt-together deal. People have machined the stock hub to remove the counterweight but since that will cost money and weaken it and the TA unit is so reasonable, just get that one if you don't want to step up all the way to the BHJ. Also get an internal balance J&W flexplate (or find the cheaper CAT one if anyone has any left, if you want). The stock woodruff key is too narrow for the slot on the old CAT cranks, you will have to check yours. Weber sells a shim spacer or I'm sure someone sells the wider key but then it won't fit the slot in the hub . If the pistons were purchased as a set with the rods and crank then you should be ok on compression height. Look at the width of the chamfer on the rod and main journals, you might need to chamfer the bearings to match. You say stock journal crank, so I assume you mean narrow rod journals, but check that too just to make sure the crank isn't cut for wide rods. That's all I can think of for now.

 

[cruzn57]

depending on cam size

often the rod bolts will contact a lobe on the cam, I use a small base circle cam to resolve that issue.
also depending on the rod used, clearance in the block, main oil passage will need sleeved, not a big deal, its done all the time, but recommend a machine shop do that for you.
hope that helps.

 

[boostmaster]

Stroker

Thanks everyone for good solid advise I get the idea of what needs to be done now it seems now that the only issue I will run into is the woodruff key since this is a CAT unit. Again thanks to all that replied with good solid info.

Pete

 

[LOT]

I would stay away fron a Cat flexplate

They are cheap for a reason. # 1 rod bolt will interfer with the oil passage. If you machinest if on the ball there is a way to set block up on side and with a little thinking, you can grind and measure for the rod bolt to oil pickup passage clearance. I have done a few and DID not go through (.070 wall left)
nor did I sleeve. I have seen them sleeved with a tube that fits bore--now you have an undersized line feeding oil pump.
I have never seen a rod bolt interfer with cam lobe. What I have seen is the side of rod hit SOME of the cam lobes. I have the side of rods cut or STROKED. Sorry don't have a pic. Best of luck