Stupid questions from me about radiators.

[robertf]

I'm running a 3 core copper radiator I bought 18 years back. Still looks like new although the car was rarely driven throughout those years. I am running a dual fan setup as well. I do plan on flushing and running Evans waterless coolant from now on. According to Evans, it never needs replacing, ever. I've wanted a huge aluminum rad but have been told copper dispates heat better. Maybe copper is another route to go.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Seeing the application you have chosen, you also have the option of using some tastefully applied aluminum "duct" tape to seal that shroud, while cutting a couple of clean notches in it to move excess in-bound air flow away, and seeing how it works for you.

The tape is readily available at the 99cent store so cost is minimal, to say the least.

Good luck and please let us know how it works out.

 

[Powertechn2]

I have a roll of aluminum tape around. That ish works great on pretty much everything as long as the surface is clean. Forget why I had it, but have used it plenty, works better than normal grey duct tape even.

Went without the shroud for now, will see how it works. The fan set-up I had been looking at was 3600 cfm, with shroud that was sized properly to allow excess in-bound air to flow. If these 2400 cfm fans don't do the job I will just swap them, but I think they should do better than the factory fan and shroud did, which worked without an issue. Guess we'll see, and I will report back on the findings. I already have a 40 amp relay sitting around that I will most likely have to install to handle the extra fan.

Before the leak the car stayed between 195 and 203, even in traffic with factory t-stat. Wasn't great, but was about what I expected with the factory t-stat I would assume.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

One more thing..... I run distilled water and RMI-25 coolant system treatment at the recommended mixture.

It has proven (to me) to be worth at least 10* cooler than a 50/50 antifreeze-water mix under any circumstance

If you have a leak or weak spot in your cooling system, this stuff will find it and expose that it's a problem.

Me too, distilled and rmi-25. Big $$$ alum radiators are worth it. I had one in my GN. But in my race, er, street car, the Fbody works well too, just plan on replacing it after a few years, or if you blow a head gasket and pressurize the cooling system, it'll snap it like a toothpick, mine did.

 

[m3x1c0]

Which one will cool better,the shroud up against the radiator or the shroud 1" away from the radiator.

Im not gonna disagree with ya there. Just saying with some weatherstripping this guy who is on a tight budget can get away with the Fbody rad and not have to do any fabricating if he doesn't want to. Is it ideal? no. But if he puts the money in the body he will be much better off.

 

[earlbrown]

I spend whatever it takes to end up with what I need.... and my personal car has an F-body radiator with a stock fan. $70 plus tax, local pickup and a lifetime warranty.

The only 'mod' I did for shrouding was in install a vertical strip of foam on the DC where air can easily go around instead of through the core. The car runs at whatever the fan turn-on point is sitting still and whatever the thermostat wants when I'm moving. That's in GA with temps in the 90+F's and 100% humidity.

 

[Powertechn2]

I could have, and did think about the Alradco, or the Be Cool, just because I have used Be Cool in the past, and their stuff is top notch. But, in Michigan, we don't really see the temps that happen in the south. Hell, the car doesn't even have AC, so I just figure that I haven't had issues with cooling up until the leak. After finding the cap seal had some cracks, that is likely why I would get a lit out of the overflow, and looking at where it was leaking, which is right where I routed my overflow tube, likely the leak has been there for a while.

Even with the radiator down 3-4", it still didn't have any cooling issues. Once the fan stopped working, and as long as I was moving it was actually ok.

Might get the stocker repaired and sell it with the factory fan and shroud on here too.

The other reason for trying to budget is I need a garage. I got quoted about $30k for stick build, or about $10k for a steel garage... If the city won't allow the steel garage, I might be moving. A month ago I was close to just selling this car, and buying another in better shape, but between the sentimental value and the fact that my offsite indoor storage was not ideal if I bought a NICE car, I figured I will just wait. Have nothing but time. It's a hobby car.

Winter is also coming, so no reason to spend close to $1k on fan/rad setup at this time knowing the 6 months of salty nasty mess is inevitable.

 

[Linewalker]

You guys have convinced me to never get a fmic. If I can't run my ac on a 100+ degree day here in Texas, it ain't worth it to me.

 

[earlbrown]

If you're about to budget tens of thousands for a garage on a house you're not going to keep, just go buy a $70 F body radiator and be done with it.

You won't win any bench races with it but it will keep your car cool.

 

[Powertechn2]

Removed the leaking radiator. Started to install the new aluminum rad and dual fans, planned on deleting the ac compressor and swapping t-stats to a cooler one.

Well, like it always happens. Forgot a few things. Realized autozone and oreilly's are both useless. Was looking for a connector for the fans, they couldn't help at all without model of the car, which is irrelevant as this is all aftermarket. AZ kept trying to sell me EFI hose @ 5.99/ft instead of trans line. Oreilly's was the even worse. Lady said that she didn't see anything that matches, then whips out her phone. I figured she was googling or texting the manager as that is a common occurrence there when the manager is not there. Nope, she was having a text chat apparently. After a few bleeps, while I am staring at her, she just turns and walks away. Smfh.

Get back home, try to mount the fans and realize the clips are loose, no adhesive in the house anywhere.

Time to make a steak and have a drink.

Old radiator was really fubar. Will definitely need a re-core. Tanks usable at least.

Champion fits well, have to modify the upper support as the cap touches it when rotating as it is not a round cap.

 

[Bruce Urie]

Really interesting on what you're doing.....please keep us informed.....looks like you're doing well so far....let us know your cooling temps, etc........I hope all the Gremlins took the day off........I think they migrated over to my garage! Still can't get rid of them!

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Powertechn2]

Really interesting on what you're doing.....please keep us informed.....looks like you're doing well so far....let us know your cooling temps, etc........I hope all the Gremlins took the day off........I think they migrated over to my garage! Still can't get rid of them!

Bruce '87 Grand National

Well, so far gremlins are at bay. Sorry they traveled to you. GN = Gremlins Neverywhere, they never seem to end, and are everywhere when you don't want them to be.

The fans mount with clips that fit in slots. Unfortunately, the clip inner portion is not angled and is square, so the clips don't sit far enough out for comfort to keep the fan from possibly hitting the fan if the bearings wear. Also, I mounted my trans cooler up front, and the crappy through the radiator mounts were rubbing on the fan. Barely.

So I took the fan mounts to my burr-king @ work, matched the angle. Just got done sticking them in place with some adhesive/sealant (Honda-bond, cuz it works great for everything). Letting everything dry, might use some rubber weather strip between the fan housings and the radiator just to make sure that they are sucking air THROUGH the rad as much as possible as I am running un-shrouded.

These fans came with the radiator. I will try free fans before I toss them and go with Spal or Fluid Dynamics. I mean, they were free or at least very cheap, I have nothing to really lose.

I am thinking about having one on all the time, and the other on a switch, or triggered by the a/c. I have no a/c, but think I could still use the a/c relay to trigger. Will test this at a later date. Not sure if the a/c relay will still get signal if there is no condensor/compressor or pressure switches. If it will work, would be easier and cleaner than a switch.

Had a question if anyone cares to answer, or knows... The T-stat housing, is it sealed with an O-ring, or sealant?

I was going to replace it with a lower temp t-stat as I see how much more room I currently have. But don't have an o-ring or gasket with the t-stat.

I also got an ac delete pulley, should do that while I am there, but I am getting impatient and winter is coming. Just want to get it dialed in before the snow flies. Seems like you have to remove the entire ac mount bracket and transfer that over to the delete pulley/bracket, then re-install.

 

[earlbrown]

The thermostat housing utilized a rubber O-ring to keep the coolant in

...and a bunch of galvanic corrosion and rust to keep the housing in place (you'll see what I mean when you get there!)

 

[Powertechn2]

The thermostat housing utilized a rubber O-ring to keep the coolant in

...and a bunch of galvanic corrosion and rust to keep the housing in place (you'll see what I mean when you get there!)

So plan on needing sealant if it is pitted/corroded badly...

Thanks for the info

 

[Bruce Urie]

So plan on needing sealant if it is pitted/corroded badly...

Thanks for the info

Or get a stainless steel one from Dennis Kirban.

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Powertechn2]

Well, radiator fits good. Can't say I am a fan of the cap.

Filled with coolant, let it run up to temp with cap off, purged air, topped off. Double check the trans fluid as I had the cooler off. Let car sit and cool, re-topped off coolant. Went for a drive, no problems. Temp was sitting at 196°, didn't swap t-stat yet.

After about 10 min of driving temps started climbing. Backed in the driveway and it was at 210°-215°. Let the car sit for a few, figured there was an air bubble. Put cap in purge setting, like I have before many times... Let go and it blew off, blowing coolant all over my arm and body. Had a hoodie on, body is fine. Arm burn't, blistering.

I know you shouldn't purge a hot radiator, or to execute caution making sure you stop at the purge notch, but I have never had a cap blow off while in the purge notch before.
Lesson learned.

So, guess a new cap is in order, or I just need to know that this cap doesn't like the purge setting. Also have to get the air out of the system.

As for triggering the second fan off the ac relay, not gonna work. It will work as a key-on trigger, but I am assuming without the high/low pressure switches in place it is not getting an activation signal to the ac relay when heater controls are turned to ac mode. Was really hoping that would work.

And for anyone with a Champion cap, be careful as the cap may not hold in the purge setting.

 

[~JM~]

Wow! Some of you guys sure spend a lot to buy something cheap!

You rarely regret buying the best the first time around.

 

[Powertechn2]

I don't regret buying a cheaper radiator than I could have. I only regret being in a hurry and not letting the car cool all the way down before trying to top it off...

 

[Ttype6]

I don't regret buying a cheaper radiator than I could have. I only regret being in a hurry and not letting the car cool all the way down before trying to top it off...

How many rows of cooling tubes?
How wide are the tubes?

 

[Powertechn2]

3 rows of 5/8" tubes.