Stupid questions from me about radiators.

[earlbrown]

So plan on needing sealant if it is pitted/corroded badly...

No. It'll look good where the O-ring seals....

It'll just be a bitch to get the O-ring over 30 years of corrosion and crud to remove the flimsy thermostat housing.


The best method I've found is to leave the top hose connected to the housing, remove the clamp, spray some jizz (anything wet, doesn't matter what) in there... then yank and bitch and yank and pull and keep going out it until the housing pops out.

After that, a quick cleaning then some grease,or better yet anti-seeze, on the bore will keep you good for the rest of time.

 

[GNRick]

Well, radiator fits good. Can't say I am a fan of the cap.

Filled with coolant, let it run up to temp with cap off, purged air, topped off. Double check the trans fluid as I had the cooler off. Let car sit and cool, re-topped off coolant. Went for a drive, no problems. Temp was sitting at 196°, didn't swap t-stat yet.

After about 10 min of driving temps started climbing. Backed in the driveway and it was at 210°-215°. Let the car sit for a few, figured there was an air bubble. Put cap in purge setting, like I have before many times... Let go and it blew off, blowing coolant all over my arm and body. Had a hoodie on, body is fine. Arm burn't, blistering.

I know you shouldn't purge a hot radiator, or to execute caution making sure you stop at the purge notch, but I have never had a cap blow off while in the purge notch before.
Lesson learned.

So, guess a new cap is in order, or I just need to know that this cap doesn't like the purge setting. Also have to get the air out of the system.

As for triggering the second fan off the ac relay, not gonna work. It will work as a key-on trigger, but I am assuming without the high/low pressure switches in place it is not getting an activation signal to the ac relay when heater controls are turned to ac mode. Was really hoping that would work.

And for anyone with a Champion cap, be careful as the cap may not hold in the purge setting.

Sorry to hear about your burn. Happened to me once too. I hope you recover ok. As for the second fan turn on switch, I have one of these on order. I'm hoping to install it this weekend. I bought mine from Hoerr Racing. They are on the Amazon site and offer free shipping. Replaces the fan turn on switch mounted vertically on the front of the manifold https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PB42GO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Coelacanth]

I went through that a few seasons ago when my car would puke coolant every time I drove the car for more than a few minutes. There were no leaks. I first replaced the rad cap, which didn't solve the issue...then a 165-degree thermostat, also didn't solve it. Ultimately I ended up replacing the rad because the insides looked like Mini-Wheats frosting. The tip to leave the upper rad hose clamped to the T-stat housing while yanking, pulling and a little harsh language worked for me.

 

[Powertechn2]

I am pretty sure I had air trapped in the system. It sat with hoses disconnected for at least a week, and didn't even take 2 gallons of coolant. After it blew coolant everywhere I fit in about 2.5 gallons and it still had some air space in the radiator. This time around the radiator was about 1/4 full whereas first fill it was completely empty, that leaves about 3 quarts that I can only assume was air somewhere.

Also I am sure that only having one fan wired in at the time added to the issue.

Not messing with it till my arm gets a little better, and it stops raining. Supposed to rain all week, maybe stop by Sunday.

Burn starting to get a little better, however having to work means I have to wrap it up. It doesn't like that at all. But it is better than getting it all funky and getting chemicals on it while working.


Thanks for the tips on the t-stat.

And I will look into the switch Rick. I might just end up having both fans on all the time. Previously the stock fan was on all the time. I have a ton of relays sitting around.

The one thing I did notice is that the fan I had connected didn't seem to have the rpm when tied into the factory fan wiring as it does when I have it directly to 12v. Maybe it is pulling more amps than the factory fan did.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Get some silver sulfadiazine for that burn.

The stuff helps burns heal it in about half the time they would normally and also helps with the scarring but then again, you might want that badge of honor.

 

[earlbrown]

I am pretty sure I had air trapped in the system. It sat with hoses disconnected for at least a week, and didn't even take 2 gallons of coolant. After it blew coolant everywhere I fit in about 2.5 gallons and it still had some air space in the radiator. This time around the radiator was about 1/4 full whereas first fill it was completely empty, that leaves about 3 quarts that I can only assume was air somewhere.

It'll do that without a steam hole in the thermostat (and/or the heater valve set to 'cold'). You'll notice when the temp gauge reads hot during that situation it's always right at boil. Since the sending unit isn't submerged it's only exposed to a steam vapor... right at 212F depending on altitude, pressure, and accuracy of the unit.

On the burn, I feel ya. About 10 years ago I was fixing a 75K GN that did the same thing. I put my hand on the cap to tell if it was actually hot or a false reading. The entire neck, cap and all, blew off just from the touch. Got my arm neck and back.

the bottom right turned into one big ass blister that was 2/3 full of water. It was like a giant googley eye on my arm! lol

 

[Powertechn2]

I tried to get some silvadyne (spelling may be incorrect, unsure). In Mi, it is prescription only according to the pharmacist. She said to use neosporin, so I have been. It is coming along. She did say that silvadyne is better in pain relief, but I really don't care about the pain. With back issues, I am used to pain.

That's a pretty gnarly burn Earl. Damn.
I am really happy I had a hoodie on. It was about 60° out, I actually was going to take it off, but left it on as the undershirt I had on looked really crappy.
After I said a few 4 letter words and the geyser stopped blowing out of the radiator I looked down and my hoodie was soaked from chest to belt area and steaming, pulled it off and threw it to the side. I know some got on my face, but was far enough away that it didn't seem to cause any issues. I could taste the coolant on my lips.


Anyways, thinking back, I did have the heater valve set to cold. I guess that is one of the areas the air was trapped at. I shouldn't have been doing this in a hurry, lesson learned.

This is what I have exactly a week after the incident. Finally stopped blistering. Outer layer(s) of skin starting to peel. Can touch it again, but still hurts, especially where the wrist flexes.

 

[robertf]

Damn GN's. Always a love/hate relationship. Hope you get well soon.

 

[Powertechn2]

Thanks

I think it was just being angry for me turning up the boost... Lol.

I will say that at 18 lbs on 93 octane, no knock. That is at least the one good thing... Then again, ignition started breaking down at higher rpms, so now on to other issues/more money to spend hahaha.

 

[robertf]

Thanks

I think it was just being angry for me turning up the boost... Lol.

I will say that at 18 lbs on 93 octane, no knock. That is at least the one good thing... Then again, ignition started breaking down at higher rpms, so now on to other issues/more money to spend hahaha.

Ironically mine is doing the exact same thing at the moment. Mine only does it as the temp rises. Cold, no misfire. I believe mine is the module. I do have a spare good coil if you need to try that. I can ship it if you'd like to try it, no charge.

 

[TurboTGuy]

I tried to get some silvadyne (spelling may be incorrect, unsure). In Mi, it is prescription only according to the pharmacist. She said to use neosporin, so I have been. It is coming along. She did say that silvadyne is better in pain relief, but I really don't care about the pain. With back issues, I am used to pain.

That's a pretty gnarly burn Earl. Damn.
I am really happy I had a hoodie on. It was about 60° out, I actually was going to take it off, but left it on as the undershirt I had on looked really crappy.
After I said a few 4 letter words and the geyser stopped blowing out of the radiator I looked down and my hoodie was soaked from chest to belt area and steaming, pulled it off and threw it to the side. I know some got on my face, but was far enough away that it didn't seem to cause any issues. I could taste the coolant on my lips.


Anyways, thinking back, I did have the heater valve set to cold. I guess that is one of the areas the air was trapped at. I shouldn't have been doing this in a hurry, lesson learned. View attachment 290465
This is what I have exactly a week after the incident. Finally stopped blistering. Outer layer(s) of skin starting to peel. Can touch it again, but still hurts, especially where the wrist flexes.

OUCH!

Call/Bug your doctor for some silver sulfadiazine.

Honestly. It really does help.

 

[Powertechn2]

Ironically mine is doing the exact same thing at the moment. Mine only does it as the temp rises. Cold, no misfire. I believe mine is the module. I do have a spare good coil if you need to try that. I can ship it if you'd like to try it, no charge.

I have a couple coils, including a new in box delco, and another module. Now, thinking about it, based on the fact that I had an issue with air trapped in the coolant system, and the fact that I hadn't had this happen before, it might have been heat related. Will know more when arm heals and I get back to work on the GN.

On a note, after it started to happen, I did stop and turn the boost back down to 16 lbs, and it still happened. Before 16 wasn't an issue, was the first time I had turned it to 18, but going back to 16 I would think should have resolved the issue unless it was caused by other factors, I.E. heat...


Thanks for the offer, I always appreciate the help.

 

[Powertechn2]

OUCH!

Call/Bug your doctor for some silver sulfadiazine.

Honestly. It really does help.

I was going to give it a day or two and do that exact thing. I have a pretty good relationship with him.

I mean, when your doctor tells you "Dude, you're fucked, its never gonna heal..." after breaking a few ribs earlier this year, I am not afraid to ask him for anything hahaha.

 

[~JM~]

Pick up an Aloe Vera plant. You should keep one growing in the kitchen window. If & when you receive a burn, cut off a length of the Aloe Vera plant & rub the plant juice directly on the burn. Then place the piece of plant in a plastic bag & refrigerate. Reuse as often as possible. Really heals burns fast.

 

[Powertechn2]

So, Spring/summer busy season has broke.

Got back into the cooling issue.

Connected the second fan, also added dual relays so both fans got full battery voltage.

Went about twice the time, but once heat starts building the fans can't keep up still.

Only hit 209. Stayed between 206 and 209, didn't lose control but still an issue.

Was great while running in the driveway, didn't climb. Went for a drive, was ok for a while. Did a few full throttle runs, 1st/ second to about 50. Still ok. Temp slowly climbing.

Hit 196, then slowly kept climbing. Traffic was out, so couldn't really cruise. Stop and go.


Either:

A. Fans are not pulling enough cfm.

B. Radiator core thickness too much, can't cool behind a Precision front mount.

C. All the above together.


I mean I look at the radiator and can find no sensible way that it doesn't have enough cooling capacity. Then again, I rarely get over 50 for any given amount of time. This is driving near Woodward.

I guess I will try to swap back in the stock fan. I am not sure what the cfm of it was, but it is a big ass fan, with a large shroud. Maybe the single fans just don't have enough area on the radiator.

Anyone know the cfm of the stock fan?

Here is the oddity. Stock radiator and fan never had any issues with cooling. After removal it had been repaired a few times with what looks like Jb weld, or stick weld. And it was never more than 3/4 full as it would spew out to that point, so I stopped adding.

BUT it never ran hot before this. Only replaced the radiator due to it leaking after a combustion gas test sucked hard enough to cause it to start leaking.

Less cores, thin stock radiator, and stock fan. But was copper core, and big ass fan.


When it rains it pours. Off topic.

Last week when busy season broke, found my cover blown off. Last time I had it off was late June, no issues.

Now the roof paint was flaking off. Then I found a bullet hole. Frigging sky shooters on 4th of July I guess. That allowed moisture/rain to trap between the roof and the cover. Not a huge deal, car has some rust, not bad. BUT now roof looks bad.

Needed a full repaint anyways, along with quarter patch panels due to 4" or so holes/bubbles in the paint...

Today driving through the work parking lot, passed a set of holes they decided to fill with large gravel, didn't think anything. Had windows open on my truck... Mind you, it is new, 4500 miles... And a Platinum.

Heard click click click, then nothing, and watched a rock fall from the sky right into the windshield, it is toast, needs replacement. And it is heated.

Ohh, and in the last 1.5 months, an 11 year relationship went to shit.


So Luck has been bad.

At what point should I just say hell with it, I am too busy and sell the car? Just feeling irritated and down.

Sorry for the O.T.

 

[TurboTGuy]

They say bad stuff comes in 3's.....

Maybe you're due for something good. Here's to hoping so.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

The radiator with the best cooling ability will have one row of 2" wide tubes,but it will be custom made and will cost over $1,000.00.
There are 3 reasons that this type of radiator cools better.
!. Since there is only one row of cooling tubes,there is no unusual turbulence created by the spaces between the tubes as the air passes through the core and because of this,the air passes through the core at a greater rate.
2. Since there is only one row of wide tubes,more area of the cooling fins contact the tube removing more heat.
3.Since there are no spaces between several rows of tube,the core is as thin as possible.

The only reasonably priced radiator for our cars,that also has the trans and oil coolers,the petcock in the stock location,and the same size diameter inlet and outlet tubes,and the second most efficient cooling ability (two rows of 1" wide tubes) is the Alradco.

You can find an aluminum radiator on ebay that will fit and have 2 rows of 1" wide cooling tubes,but it won't have an oil cooler and it won't have the exact same diameter inlet and outlet tubes and it won't have the petcock in the stock location. I don't know if Champion is one of the companies that make one,but you can call them.

The third option is the F body radiator. It has 1 row of 1" wide cooling tubes and works very well,but you will have to move the fan shroud toward the radiator because the core is thinner and farther away from the fan. It won't work well if you don't get the fan shroud up against the thinner F body radiator core.

The number of rows of cooling tubes is not the important thing to look for. In fact,the more rows the less efficiency.
The important thing is the width of the cooling tubes.

To sum up,there are two options.
1. 1 row of 1" wide cooling tubs (F body)
2. 2 rows of 1" wide cooling tubes (Alradco and ebay).

That sounds just like my old DeQuick rad. Still running it to this day.

 

[Powertechn2]

Ok, so I figured might as well toss the stock fan back in.

Guess what, it is running cool now. Drove around for an hour, never got over 187.

All the dicking around with 2 fans that on paper flow more cfm, and the stock fan that was sitting outside all winter *was already really rough* works like a charm.

I wired it to one of the relays I installed for the 2 crap fans, so it has better power coming through them than the factory harness. It is really cobbled up at the moment because I figured if it didn't work I was going to either swap in an Intrepid fan setup, or swap the radiator.

Now just have to get the ignition to stop stumbling under anything over 14 lbs of boost.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I tried to get some silvadyne (spelling may be incorrect, unsure). In Mi, it is prescription only according to the pharmacist. She said to use neosporin, so I have been. It is coming along. She did say that silvadyne is better in pain relief, but I really don't care about the pain. With back issues, I am used to pain.

That's a pretty gnarly burn Earl. Damn.
I am really happy I had a hoodie on. It was about 60° out, I actually was going to take it off, but left it on as the undershirt I had on looked really crappy.
After I said a few 4 letter words and the geyser stopped blowing out of the radiator I looked down and my hoodie was soaked from chest to belt area and steaming, pulled it off and threw it to the side. I know some got on my face, but was far enough away that it didn't seem to cause any issues. I could taste the coolant on my lips.


Anyways, thinking back, I did have the heater valve set to cold. I guess that is one of the areas the air was trapped at. I shouldn't have been doing this in a hurry, lesson learned. View attachment 290465
This is what I have exactly a week after the incident. Finally stopped blistering. Outer layer(s) of skin starting to peel. Can touch it again, but still hurts, especially where the wrist flexes.

Oh WOW!

I skimmed through this thread, wrote a quick response earlier, and never even noticed these pictures!

Dude, that must hurt like a bitch. Hope it's quickly getting better . That's the kind of pain that won't let you sleep at night!

Get yourself one of these cheesy caps. They come in a few different varieties. I have one.

They are kinda gay, and sometimes they leak a drop or 2, so I have had to replace it a few times. But it could save you a bad burn.

 

[Ttype6]

Ok, so I figured might as well toss the stock fan back in.

Guess what, it is running cool now. Drove around for an hour, never got over 187.

All the dicking around with 2 fans that on paper flow more cfm, and the stock fan that was sitting outside all winter *was already really rough* works like a charm.

I wired it to one of the relays I installed for the 2 crap fans, so it has better power coming through them than the factory harness. It is really cobbled up at the moment because I figured if it didn't work I was going to either swap in an Intrepid fan setup, or swap the radiator.

Now just have to get the ignition to stop stumbling under anything over 14 lbs of boost.

Are you using the stock ceramic fan motor resistor?