Suggestions on wiring a race car please.

[SS_Sean]

I'm getting ready to re-wire my 78 Malibu race car. I've been posting some how-to's over here:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/how-tos/301777-how-install-bars-cage-frame.html

Anyone have any suggestions for a switch panel mounted on the cage for things like fuel pump, water pump, fans, etc? I'm also going to install all my electronics/electrical on an aluminum panel, I think, and bolt that to the passenger side cage at the front bar/door bar area. Any suggestions and photos there would be great.

I'm stepping the car up to the next level and hope this comes out really nice, clean and functional.

Thanks.

 

[SS_Sean]

anyone?

 

[disco stu]

Wiring in a switch panel is pretty self explanatory. Take the time and effort to use weatherpak connectors and/or junkyard OEM connectors so you can disconnect such accessories (and stuff like console wiring etc) and reconnect quickly in case of removal.

If you are wiring the whole car I would suggest Rebel Wire. They are a small outfit, but their prices are great, instructions are great, and wire quality etc are great. And made in the USA. I've used Ron Francis, Painless, and EZ wire. They are all good but i like Rebel the best.

 

[SS_Sean]

Thanks, Stu. All good suggestions...

 

[baron]

I like the touch switch panels that ARC makes... Jegs and summit sell them

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My $.02...

Check out some of the stock car supply sites. They always have reliable pieces, given the way the cars are treated.
Also, places like Alstons, S&W, Art Morrison, sell pieces that go w/ thier chassis/frame kits, etc.
IMO, B4 you pull the first piece of wire, you determine the ga to be needed, make a drawing of each section of the system, get a wire ID kit.
As previously mentioned, sectionalize the system, so it can be maintained/removed/modified w/o having to remove the entire harness.
I use the GXL automotive wire from WAYTEK.[www.waytekwire.com]
I have the connector kits that John Spina @ CASPERS sells.
They have a good selection of pieces that make the job ALOT easier!
I DO NOT use the insulated terminals. The crimp quality is questionable, and it looks like "Fido's azz".
I use hi Q crimpers designed for the terminals, and shrink wrap tubing. [If an insul connector is all I have, I pull the plastic off, and use the shrink wrap.]
I do not solder the terminals, as without very good soldering skills, one can ruin a good crimp by overheating the wire, wicking solder up the wire, causing a brittle condition. The only soldering is done when splicing wires into the body of another wire. Preferably, I use a j block to connect them together.
I use Packard 56 series if the enviornment is dry.
For the connections out in the weather/moisture, etc, I use either Metripak 150, [14A/16v], or Metripak 280, [30A/16V].
Lastly, many of my harnesses are run thru spiral tube for security/avoiding sharp edges, etc. You can't have too many support locations.
If you are wrapping the wires w/ tape.. DO not use electrical tape. It will become sticky, lose it's grip, and generally make a mess. Especially when exposed to underhood heat. Call John, and get the wrap tape he sells.
A tip to avoid the dreaded "ziptie gashes" in your hands: I have a very small pair of side cutters, that have 1 edge of the jaws flush w/ the side. This allows you to cut the ties absolutely flush w/ the lock, avoiding the razor's edge. Also, they are indispensible under the dash/in tite places.
Back to wiring my 55!

 

[Nick Micale]

Here is a pic of a panel which we have used in a few race cars.

We are now working on a GN race car undergoing a frame-off restoration, and every wire was removed from the car. Much easier to start fresh rather than modify the old factory harness.

We have lots of experience in wiring these cars and be glad to discuss it with you by phone or e-mail.

 

[salvageV6]

Make it twice the size and with twice the extra circuits of what you can think of you are going to run today.

Determine what wires have to go in what directions and how you will be running the bundles and harnesses and label and draw them as suggested.

You might find locating some switches in the dash would be easier to operate and use and a relay/wiring fuse panel over where you have planned it.

Nicks pic. looks like a nice panel but I'd like to see a bottom pic. as well and where all those wires are gonna go.

Maybe a thumb screw cover for it as well, lexan etc.

 

[SS_Sean]

Thanks guys. Good advice!

Nick is that plate tucked up under the dash?

Here's a switch panel company I found. REALLY nice pieces...
DIGITAL DELAY - Delay Boxes - Elite 500, Mega 450, Mega 350, Elite 95, Mega Dial Panel, Mega Panel

 

[SS_Sean]

Where did you guys mount your remote mount Ford solinoid?

Mines currently on the passenger front fender but I think I'd like to move it closer to or on the board I'm going to build.

 

[Nick Micale]

Thanks guys. ............Nick is that plate tucked up under the dash?.........l[/url]

Yes, open the glove box door, and you have easy access to it.

It has 2 fuse panels, one for switched power, other for constant power [it is dead when the external battery kill switch is off].

Both panels have spare circuits as well as extra relays. All wires are labeled on both ends.

One GN we did is a street/strip 9 sec. car and still has lights, turn signal, etc. to be street legal.

A larger panel with more "stuff" for a 7/8 sec. GN was mounted on the floor where the pass seat would be, and a hinged cover was made for protection.

The GN we are now doing has the starter solenoid mounted on the frame rail a little aft of the starter. Cable will run inside the frame away from the DP.

The MOST important task in re-wiring a car is to have a plan. Make a diagram of all functions, switches, wire runs, etc. The first time we did this, 3 of us conferred a few times over a couple days before we combined our notes for the final diagram. Of course, there still were some changes.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I don't

Where did you guys mount your remote mount Ford solinoid?

Mines currently on the passenger front fender but I think I'd like to move it closer to or on the board I'm going to build.

think I'd put a hi load device such as a starter circuit, close to sensitive electronic components...