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Hold a cold mirror (stick it in the refrigerator for a while) up to the "smoke" stream, if it's steam, it will condense into water on the cold mirror. Then look at your head or intake manifold gasket(s).
I second the "you need a different "mechanic" statement, regardless.
We installed a Vintage Air system on a camaro here in Phx,az. The customer drove it to California on vacation, and complained about "smoke" coming from the A/C vents, it was fog from the COLD air conditioner!
TIMINATOR
my old ladies sorrento has AC that makes the cold smoke
 
You
will
check
the
downpipe for
oil
as chuck said
yes?

you separate down pipe from turbo

if oil there

turbo seal bad
you replace
I will check. Thanks for the advice. The v-6 turbo is an entirely new animal to me. All help and knowledge is much appreciated.
 
Have you done a leakdown test to find out if you have a shortblock?
If you have smoke from the rocker covers, you have a shortblock issue IMHO.
Turbo seal can flood the intake and/or exhaust with oil, and it would be a mosquito fogger, but how would it get past the rings into the oil pan area?
Then again, you could have a ring seal issue, and a turbo seal issue too.
You can have oil in the downpipe from a ring seal issue or turbo seal issue, or both.
You can see what the plugs look like when you are doing the leak down. More clues there....
TIMINATOR
 
Have you done a leakdown test to find out if you have a shortblock?
If you have smoke from the rocker covers, you have a shortblock issue IMHO.
Turbo seal can flood the intake and/or exhaust with oil, and it would be a mosquito fogger, but how would it get past the rings into the oil pan area?
Then again, you could have a ring seal issue, and a turbo seal issue too.
You can have oil in the downpipe from a ring seal issue or turbo seal issue, or both.
You can see what the plugs look like when you are doing the leak down. More clues there....
TIMINATOR
Thanks for the response. I found a local shop that has experience in high performance engines. They will perform some tests including a leak down. Thanks again.
 
With the shortblock, or denial?
It really took 26 posts to get here?
TIMINATOR
 
just watched vid....
quick compression check to isolate
then do a leak down test.....this method works for me without removing rocker shafts-------
you watch it.... you do it
then
you let chuck noe the results yes?
 
Removing the rocker shafts? Why?
Leakdown is done on a warmed up to operating temp engine.
Remove the spark plug, bump, or rotate the engine around to TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE of the cylinder you are testing, set the regulator to 80 lbs. and read the other gauge. If turning the engine over with a bar or wrench, REMOVE IT BEFORE PRESSURIZING THE CYLINDER! If the piston is not within a few degrees of TDC, the pressure can rotate the crankshaft in either direction!
With a listening tube, listen in the crankcase or rocker covers, exhaust and throttlebody to ascertain where the pressure is going. Past the piston/rings, exhaust or intake valve. Write down the numbers for future and/or our reference.
If one cylinder is low, and air seems to be going in the crankcase, but others are normal, replace the spark plug, start and Rev the engine a few times, and retest that cylinder. The rings in that cylinder may have just have lined up the endgaps. Rings do rotate in normal operation. If it does not come up, that is the bad cylinder. If the shortblock is worn or "used up", all will have a higher leakdown. A poor hone job, or overheated top ring(s) can also allow excessive oil consumption without showing excessive leakdown.
You would like to see less than 10% leakdown, preferably less than 5%. Fresh, precision machined engines built with good quality parts run with less leakdown, BUT! Turbo , blown, or nitrous engines may show a bit more leakdown into the crankcase due to more piston to wall clearance and bigger required ring endgaps. This is normal if all cylinders are nearly equal.
TIMINATOR
 
That's how we were taught to do it by the airplane (A&P)mechanics, back in the day before the car guys started doing it.
The reason the piston needs to be as close to TDC, is because that's where the most of the cylinder wear occurs, where the rings change direction at the top, AND, nobody wanted to get whacked by the prop!
Way back when Chuck learned it, the props were still made of rock, and that really hurt! LOL!
TIMINATOR
 
just watched vid....
quick compression check to isolate
then do a leak down test.....this method works for me without removing rocker shafts-------
you watch it.... you do it
then
you let chuck noe the results yes?
I took my 87 GN to a mechanic and he verified that no compression in cylinder #5. With some other wear and tear he suggested that I have the engine rebuilt. He also said that it appears the GN that I purchased was used for drag racing because of suspension mods, exhaust mods, etc. This is unfortunate because the classic car dealership that I bought the car from really misled me. So currently I have a shiny boat anchor. I am in northwest Indiana. Anyone close that could help me out?
 
Does the state in which you purchased the vehicle have anything in place to protect the buyer, any warranty from the selling Dealer, that really sucks.
 
state of IL lemon law does not cover used vehicles, sadly.

links below =>

if your paperwork from the dealer does not specifically detail a warranty by time or mileage, your state of IL has an implied warranty of merchantability of 15 days from date of delivery or driven 500 miles for used vehicles...


 
A hurt cylinder is no reason to walk away from this car

Yank the engine, see exactly what the problem is and react accordingly

Setbacks with these vehicles is the norm….. this sucks but stick with it and it will be worth the hassle
 
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