Suspension loaded or unloaded

[Johnnie]

I am about to purchased the GNX sheet metal rear seat brace. When it comes time to install it, wheels barely off the ground (going to use a lift) or weight on the suspension( wheels on the ground) ? I'm going to spot weld it in, btw.
I'm guessing it might have instructions?

 

[charlief1]

It has directions with it and it shouldn't matter whether it's off the ground or not.

 

[626gn]

I am about to purchased the GNX sheet metal rear seat brace. When it comes time to install it, wheels barely off the ground (going to use a lift) or weight on the suspension( wheels on the ground) ? I'm going to spot weld it in, btw.
I'm guessing it might have instructions?

I'm sure yours will come with instructions. FWIW instructions for the Kirbans x braces say to put the car on jack stands.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

It doesnt make sense to me to raise the car on the jack points. The rear and front will drop, then add some braces with the front and rear dropped. I add them the way the car sits.

 

[626gn]

Its been done both ways - on the ground and on stands. Is there a measurable difference between the two methods? Who knows? I'm no expert on suspensions but by putting the car evenly on stands this will unload the chassis and will not allow the body to flex under your own weight while you're in the car installing the brace, per Kirbans instructions.

 

[dank GN]

Im in the process of putting a cage in my car and per the directions you want your car up on jacks so it is as level as possible I would think this would be the same you want your frame level so when u install it will stays level . Ether way it isnt going to completely stiffen up your body

 

[Johnnie]

Im in the process of putting a cage in my car and per the directions you want your car up on jacks so it is as level as possible I would think this would be the same you want your frame level so when u install it will stays level . Ether way it isnt going to completely stiffen up your body

Yup. A well designed cage is undoubtedly the very best way to stiffen up the whole car. I just want the car as stiff as I can get it and yet look stock. I already have some braces in it now ( Sc&c front triangular brace and the umi Shock tower brace) , new body bushings, and they all have helped out a bunch.
But I will keep it as level as possible, probably on a lift with the wheels barely on the ground with the lift to support the weight of me being in the car working on it. And if the directions say otherwise, I will follow those. I'll let y'all know the results.

As a sidenote, for all that haven't changed their body bushings, I highly recommend doing it as soon as possible. My pampered * low mileage * GN showed me some things that surprised and, quite frankly, scared me. There was only 2 bushings in place on the drivers side, and they were rotten, very loose and ready to fall out. The passenger side had three in place , all rotten and two were quite loose. I hesitate to think what could have happened during "spirited" driving....

 

[forcefed3.8's]

My car was leveled when the cage was installed. When lowered onto the tires, the drivers door dropped, and the drivers 1/4 developed a slight dent from tension. There is still that much flex with a very complex 8.5 cert cage with front bars under the hood, rocker bars, and bars from the rear bars that go to the spring perches to the rear frame rails, with triangulated braces.
When you lift a car at the torque boxes, the front and rear drop a lot, over 1". I guess I would level the car with jackstands at the suspension mounting points. It makes no sense to me to support the car at a different place than the cars weight is supported naturally.

 

[Johnnie]

Update.... Got my Tin Man GNX brace in the mail and going to install next week. In reviewing the instructions, it says to put ( at least ) the rear of the car on jack stands and make * sure * the car is level from side to side..... Aka no twist. Then remove the rear wheels for access to the areas needed.
Like I said previously, we're spot welding it in , and if that is too much of a hassle we will use the bolts supplied. I'm also thinking, maybe some construction adhesive / epoxy too?? We shall see.

 

[Johnnie]

I kinda feel like a doofus. I got "plug" welding and "spot" welding mixed up. I haven't opened up the car yet to see exactly what's involved with the GNX brace, and after reading the directions I don't think that actual spot welding it is possible because of the C-arm . ( We are going to tackle it this Monday).Could someone please advise us on the best way to install this thing ? . I know welding is the best way, so do we "plug" weld it? How did McClaren do it?

I am in no way a metal fabricator or body man..... and can be pretty stupid at times. ( I do the diff between tig and mig welding, though, I just have never done it.) . My knowledge base is medical stuff and aviation, and unfortunately my learning curve on my car is *very* steep. That's why this site is absolutely awesome...... And this doofus has learned a *bunch* from you all so far.... And the knowledge is appreciated.

 

[FullThrottle87]

The factory GNX braces were rivited in, with epoxy sandwiched between the two pieces of metal for added strength.