Suspension mods for lowered vehicles
- Thread starter John B
- Start date
geno, you certainly have my attention now! Would you mind sharing exactly what you used to correct and adjust this? Did you buy an adjustable LCA bracket? What are you using for shocks? Was your front sway bar disconnected?
Sorry for getting down to the bones here but it sounds like "you 'da man!"
Sorry for getting down to the bones here but it sounds like "you 'da man!"
I got 60 lbs preload on the R/R spring by using spring rubbers kind of like NASCAR uses and then set the Wolfe sway bar so it had o preload.
No front sway bar with even weight on the front tires.(mine scales within 3 lbs across the front)
90/10 comp front shocks
No air bag
50/50 comp rear shocks
Metco lower control arms
boxed stock uppers
2" Bell tec dropped spindles
2" drop Bell Tec spring with a half a turn cut out of them to lower the car more than 2"
15/10 convo pro rear wheels 28x10.5 slicks
No pinion snubber extention
4 deg down pinion angle
Comp lower trailing arm relocation kit to fix the instant center after lowering the car
I do launch at 20lbs boost with a AC 9" converter T70 BB turbo (from J Cotton)and a vacum assist foot brake. I used the comp engineering LCA brackets to get the IC set and the pinion angle.
I grafted tabs onto the bottoms of the LCA brackets and drilled hole in them so i could play around with different settings and found that the origanal hole in the bracket extentions worked the best.After you lower the car the upper trailing arms point more down hill and that is good but the lower control arms point down. Look at your car and see if the lower control arms point down at the front. Mine are about 5 deg up towards the front after installing the LCA brackets.If you use these brackets besure you weld them in and dont just bolt them....This setup has got me a 1.36 60ft and always at least a 1.40
No front sway bar with even weight on the front tires.(mine scales within 3 lbs across the front)
90/10 comp front shocks
No air bag
50/50 comp rear shocks
Metco lower control arms
boxed stock uppers
2" Bell tec dropped spindles
2" drop Bell Tec spring with a half a turn cut out of them to lower the car more than 2"
15/10 convo pro rear wheels 28x10.5 slicks
No pinion snubber extention
4 deg down pinion angle
Comp lower trailing arm relocation kit to fix the instant center after lowering the car
I do launch at 20lbs boost with a AC 9" converter T70 BB turbo (from J Cotton)and a vacum assist foot brake. I used the comp engineering LCA brackets to get the IC set and the pinion angle.
I grafted tabs onto the bottoms of the LCA brackets and drilled hole in them so i could play around with different settings and found that the origanal hole in the bracket extentions worked the best.After you lower the car the upper trailing arms point more down hill and that is good but the lower control arms point down. Look at your car and see if the lower control arms point down at the front. Mine are about 5 deg up towards the front after installing the LCA brackets.If you use these brackets besure you weld them in and dont just bolt them....This setup has got me a 1.36 60ft and always at least a 1.40
I'm getting ready to lower my car and this thread is exactly what I was looking for!!
Geno.......
I too have been looking at the Bell Tech setup. Do you have problems with fitting a 28" tire with the car lowered? Does the Wolfe bar make up for this? Where do I get the brackets to adjust the IC as you mentioned?
Another route I have been looking into is a complete coil over setup. I realize that this is a lot more expensive, but is it better? Seems like I could drop the car to the ground for the street, then adjust it back up and slap on the 28" tires for the track? I don't want to spend the money if it won't work better, but I'm certainly not afraid to do it right the first time no matter the cost.
TIA!!
Geno.......
I too have been looking at the Bell Tech setup. Do you have problems with fitting a 28" tire with the car lowered? Does the Wolfe bar make up for this? Where do I get the brackets to adjust the IC as you mentioned?
Another route I have been looking into is a complete coil over setup. I realize that this is a lot more expensive, but is it better? Seems like I could drop the car to the ground for the street, then adjust it back up and slap on the 28" tires for the track? I don't want to spend the money if it won't work better, but I'm certainly not afraid to do it right the first time no matter the cost.
TIA!!
ViciousV6,
It's not necessary to go coil overs. Good stiff springs and HD rear shocks are all that is needed. Remember, that when you start raising/lowering your car it changes the angles of the control arms and thus changes the Instant Center (IC) of the suspension. So if you spend a lot of $$ on lowering it to get a better 60' then you should understand where the IC is now and where needs to be for your application when you're done. You could go slower
ks
It's not necessary to go coil overs. Good stiff springs and HD rear shocks are all that is needed. Remember, that when you start raising/lowering your car it changes the angles of the control arms and thus changes the Instant Center (IC) of the suspension. So if you spend a lot of $$ on lowering it to get a better 60' then you should understand where the IC is now and where needs to be for your application when you're done. You could go slower
ks
What Kevin said is true, i started out in 2 second 60ft range and 125 to 130 mph range before getting it right!!!Originally posted by KEVINS
ViciousV6,
It's not necessary to go coil overs. Good stiff springs and HD rear shocks are all that is needed. Remember, that when you start raising/lowering your car it changes the angles of the control arms and thus changes the Instant Center (IC) of the suspension. So if you spend a lot of $$ on lowering it to get a better 60' then you should understand where the IC is now and where needs to be for your application when you're done. You could go slower
ks
The comp enginering shocks work good for me but im not sure what you want out of your car.Like everything else on these cars there is a balance between street and strip that you can go over and end up with a car thats not fun to drive on the road. Like my car may get great 60fts after changing the IC but it took away from the braking when the load reverse,s . Its not that bad but i did notice it and having soft shoes and big wheel cylinders doesnt help.Like i said its all a balance of parts like turbo,s and converters if you still want to enjoy both worlds.The one thing ive found is that you get way less tickets after you lower your car because you dont want to tear the bottom up on roads you dont know.
