Switch from regular to synthetic oil???

1BADT

TurboHolic
Joined
May 24, 2001
Just wondering if it is OK to switch from regular name brand oil to a full synthetic oil in a high mileage (175K) TR???

Is the myth true that the car will develop more leaks?

Also if the car is used to running with the regular oil will the synthetic hurt the bearings etc?

Any thoughts on this would be of great help, THANKS...
 
Switch it over QUICK!
There won't be any mechanical problems. I don't know if it's coincidence or syn actually causes more oil leaks. I never heard of that before until I got on this BB. Maybe it's true, maybe not. My vehicles always leaked oil no matter what oil I was using..:(


ks;)
 
continue to use regular oil

with the amount of miles you have your car, i think you will get some leakage. my experience - i convinced my dad to switch over to synthetic on his vehicles. one is '70 monte carlo with 144k+ miles and the other 71 lincoln mark III with less than 100K. both in perfect mechanical condition. always used regular oil. after switching to synthetic, both cars started leaking. switched back to regular oil and the leaking stopped. granted, both much older cars than yours. however, i think the mileage is a factor. i don't have any experience with this on my own cars because i've always used synthetic. :)

hope this helps

chris
 
it is not so much the synthetic "causes" the leaks,it's just that
it has a way of finding leaks which were already there,the car likely
already was "sweating" in these spots....
 
In a high-mileage car, I'd stick with what was already being run to that point.

Regarding leaks: my car has 20k miles, and I know the prev owner always ran dino oil. I switched to syn - Mobil 1 5W 30 and had some leaks where I hadn't had them previously. I went up to 10W-30 and the leaks went away.

Rich
 
Synthetic oil is molecularly smaller so it can slip into cracks easier and slp into small holes in gaskets to cause or worsen oil leaks.
 
Hmmm.....

Now that you guys mention it...my small oil leak at the passenger side valve cover has gotten worse since I did my last change with synthetic. I usually use 20w-50 or straight 50w Valvoline Racing oil but since Mobil-1 was on sale I decided to spoil her a bit!:D I use synthetic about once every 3 to 4 oil changes. I guess that 50w has a hard time squeezing through the leak than the Mobil-1 does!:eek:
 
That's exactly what I was trying to say.Because of this I may likely
switch back too reg.oil,I'm using 5w50(for high temp protection,new turbo)
but I'm very anal about some things and leaks are one of them!!:mad: :D
But working in a parts.dept has it's benefits!!!...$ :) $$$
 
Originally posted by GNSCOTT
Synthetic oil is molecularly smaller so it can slip into cracks easier and slp into small holes in gaskets to cause or worsen oil leaks.
Yeah, I've learned that it has to do with the size of the molecules. Synthetic oil is created with all molecules the same size. Organic oil has all kinds of different-sized molecules, some big, some medium, and some small. So the synthetic has a better chance of seeping out of small openings that have been there all along.
 
Thanks for all the great responses.

Seems like it's a toss up whether I should switch.

Maybe I will stick with what I have been doing for the last couple years, 5 qts Regular 1 qt synthetic. Seems to be working fine.

Anyone else have some words of wisdom???
 
Everything I have ever read says DO NOT mix synthetic and organic oil. Once you switch to synthetic stick with it or vice versa. Why would you want to change when you have gotten 175000 out of your current oil? What could be any better then that? You are asking for trouble if you switch.

On the other hand I have a Jasper's engine with only 10000 miles on it. I am going to start using synthetic while the seals are all good, and I am not expecting any leak problems.
 
Reading is fundamental and I recommend you look at some of the circle track or stock car magazines. Those guys pay a lot of attention to oil and oiling systems. Most of your local stock car guys need that motor to last the whole racing season. Great information to be found there. I have kept some issues just for references.

Those numbers on the bottle, like 10, 20, 30, are all there because they are federally required flow ratings. In a multigrade oil, the first rating is the cold flow and the second is the hot flow. So a 5W50 starts as a 5 weight oil and a 20W50 starts as a 20 weight oil. And both are rated to flow like a 50 weight when hot. And along with that you should find the "W" oils meet federal standards for cold flow rates or winter use. Before some on this board were born, we would run 30 weight in the summer and 20 weight in the winter. It was a while before some people trusted those multiweight oils.

Castrol GTX has been my standard oil for about 20 years because I like how clean it keeps my motors. My 87T has over 200K on it and it honestly looks like the original tubo. I run 20W50 in the summer and 10W40 in the winter. Lisa drives a 93 Regal V6 which now has over 160K on it. She can tell when I change the oil weights because she sees a drop in hot idle and cruise oil pressures on the guage when I make the change to the lighter oil.

I knew a guy who built motors for one of the major oil/fuel testing labs. In his personal 350 Chevy truck, Corvette, and motorcycles, he ran regular 10W40 Valvoline. In the gear boxes he ran MobileOne gear lubes. And as a neat side note, the Buick V6 was the reference motor for testing in the labs for almost 20 years.

Good Luck,
 
1. Synthetic oils are superior.
2. Synthetic and regular oils can be mixed.
3. You can switch back and forth at any time.

:)
 
With the high mileage, you're pissin' in the wind to switch now. I have the same situation. I will use synthetics after a fresh rebuild, but not now.
 
If I was an oil company and I sold regular premium oil for $1.50 a qt., and I made synthetic oil I could sell for $4.00 a quart, I think I'd put out a lot of information about how good the synthetic oil is. Think about it!!!!;)
 
I think synthetic oils are better for turbo engines for one reason. The synthetic does not "coke" as quickly when exposed to high temperatures. Can you say "exhaust side bearing on the turbo".
This coke deposit builds up on the housing and oil passage over time and reduces the flow of oil to the bearing. This bearing depends on oil for lubrication and cooling. As the passage plugs, oil flow drops off, temperatures go up from lack of cooling, more coke forms, oil flow drops more, well, you can see where this leads. Frequent oil changes will have little effect on the coking since new conventional oil will form coke almost as readily as old oil. In non-turbo applications, synthetics are probably little if any better than conventional oils. my .02
 
Ya' know.....I think your right about that coking idea. My turbo just started smoking pretty good at idle. Darn thing only lasted for 115,000 miles. :( Over those miles had I used synthetic oil, it would have cost me close to $1000 more in oil changes. Only cost a couple hundred to have a basic rebuild done on a Turbo. I think I'll stick with the conventional and not waste my money.;)
 
I agree.The only reason I'm using synthetic right now(fresh turbo)
is for added protection,and until I buy a big "ferris wheel" turbo,I
will do anything to preserve this new one,even if my rear main seal
leaks a little more...:( :)
 
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