TA SS header - Flange/head sealing

Jerryl

Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Getting ready to install a set of TA SS headers and . . . My second job as a Buick aftermarket parts field quality inspector forced me confirm flange flatness. Noticed that the flanges on BOTH sides are bowed out in the middle about 0.023".

Fwiw:
I read lots of threads on TA headers and not much info on flange sealing issues. These headers have the slotted holes in the turbo mounting flange.

Called TA to discuss *this* specific concern and was told:
1-Flange gaskets MUST be used. (This is not an option and understand why.)
2-Flanges "should pull in" when bolted onto the head. (Thinking about this one . . .)
3-If the headers don't seal with gasket they need to be resurfaced.
4-Flanges are checked after welding and corrected as needed.

Is there any field feedback on this issue ? Anyone confirm flange flatness and bolt on as is, and did they leak? Hate doing s*** twice.
 
Last edited:
Getting ready to install a set of TA SS headers and . . . My second job as a Buick aftermarket parts field quality inspector forced me confirm flange flatness. Noticed that the flanges on BOTH sides are bowed out in the middle about 0.023".

Fwiw:
I read lots of threads on TA headers and not much info on flange sealing issues. These headers have the slotted holes in the turbo mounting flange.

Called TA to discuss *this* specific concern and was told:
1-Flange gaskets MUST be used. (This is not an option and understand why.)
2-Flanges "should pull in" when bolted onto the head. (Thinking about this one . . .)
3-If the headers don't seal with gasket they need to be resurfaced.
4-Flanges are checked after welding and corrected as needed.

Is there any field feedback on this issue ? Anyone confirm flange flatness and bolt on as is, and did they leak? Hate doing s*** twice.


Jerry,

I checked for true when I was having issues with mine, they were flat as can be. I checked them with a straightedge. I think I had .002 +/-. I had noticed my flanges had some machine marks on the surface before I put them on, so it was apparent there was machine work performed.

Are these brand new headers?

I would take the time and have them machined flat 23 thou is quite a bit.
 
Yes, brand new. I take it you guys calling BS on the "pull in" as well? Lol

Machine shop said they can do it at $125/header. 2 week wait. Going to hand file them flat.
 
Jerryl,
I resurfaced mine on a belt sander.......as they were way out right outta the box.
 
Yes, brand new. I take it you guys calling BS on the "pull in" as well? Lol

Machine shop said they can do it at $125/header. 2 week wait. Going to hand file them flat.


They are new right ? Send them back and have them machine them flat .. NO F'N way do you use the cyl head to pull them in flat .. WTF are these guys brain dead
 
I know for a fact that the quality issue is the result of a inferior process. This can all be resolved if someone cares enough to focus on it.
 
They are new right ? Send them back and have them machine them flat .. NO F'N way do you use the cyl head to pull them in flat .. WTF are these guys brain dead
Yeah, brand new but already coated.
They are NOT machined after welding but pressed in a jig to straighten. This only creates stress in the tubes and welds. Who am I to argue. Crazy . . . Lol
 
Yeah, brand new but already coated.
They are NOT machined after welding but pressed in a jig to straighten. This only creates stress in the tubes and welds. Who am I to argue. Crazy . . . Lol


ohh my ... you are the consumer ! who obviously knows more about stainless characteristics then the manufactures .. ridiculous .. sorry you had trouble

yea just machine them flat and hopefully that fixes that
 
I knew going in this would be a problem and expected this. Just to clarify: This is NOT a bashing session but a sharing of findings and lesson learned to those looking into aftermarket headers.

I wouldn't mind sharing my expertise for free to get this resolved with TA, for the bettterment of the sport and these cars.
 
I'm sorry but really guys........it shouldn't be necessary to have to machine brand new SS headers IMO. I mean C'mon, these are what $1150 and change US? IMO, these should be shipped to the customer laser straight!
 
I'm sorry but really guys........it shouldn't be necessary to have to machine brand new SS headers IMO. I mean C'mon, these are what $1150 and change US? IMO, these should be shipped to the customer laser straight!


I couldn't agree more ... SPOT ON !

And NO its not a bashing session .. but seriously WTF ! if they were $200 bucks and made in China you would have the expectation that your not gonna have a bolt on and go scenario :)

In a previous life I used to build turbo systems from scratch .. all the mating surfaces HAD to be perfectly flat before they were sent out .. PERIOD
CNC flanges, special jigs for final welding, certain cooling for headers, and post welding machining .

I guess this is par for the course when nobody gives a shit about quality anymore ... and there is a good amount of blame to be put on us as CONSUMERS as we just accept this as the norm and move on..

The fact that they say YOU MUST use a gasket says all .. if everything is 100% correct there is no damn reason for a gasket ... very thin bead of copper rtv and NEVER ever had leaking issues .. but it has to be perfectly flat

IMO .. they should eat the machining cost .. sorry the gasket / and bolt to pull in process is just a band aid to a problem that should have never been there ..

Its totally apparent between TOby's thread and this one that design, QC is sub par .. hopefully they fix the issues
 
"QC" should include firing the guy that gives out the bogus info...At the very minimum, if one does not know WTF they are doing/saying, ask someone that does.
Call Mike, and ask him to get this straightened out....
 
My first set was warped by 1/2", no way would those "pull in". Returned them to Nick for a new set. They were better.
 
Going to work on headers after i figure out the sugar in the motor issue. I will discuss with Mike and see where we end up . . . although already got an answer yesterday.
 
Going to work on headers after i figure out the sugar in the motor issue. I will discuss with Mike and see where we end up . . . although already got an answer yesterday.

Hang in there Jerry! Can't imagine how I would be feeling after the sugar in the motor? Now new part problems!
I have TA SS street headers that I have been running for 3 years installed with the supplied gaskets. They were flat enough (no warping) when I checked them and have no leaks. I have aluminum heads so I did not torque them to 37 ft lbs I believe I went to 30 ft lbs.
 
...and this is why I had to helicoil the heads. I actually went back to stock manifolds after dealing with this nonsense.
 
There was a guy on here selling a long block with headers, Turbo, etc. and he had a very nice looking set of custom built headers SS 304 with thick flanges, etc.

So I contacted them, gave them the info and asked them how much for the headers. $1,350 is the quote and $750 for an atr style down pipe. Below are the headers and the link as well.

http://www.gpheaders.com

The note back from GP;

Hello Phillip,

Yes we can reproduce the same header as the set for Jim. The price for the entire system built out of stainless steel is $1350. We can also replicate a down pipe if you send in a sample. I would be able to give you a quote if you can send in a few pictures of the down pipe.


Thanks,

Kevin Pender

GP Headers Inc
#800-242-9157
#218-493-4251
19767 MN-34
Barnesville MN 56514


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