Tans Brake and stall question ????

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thunderace31

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Sep 2, 2002
Messages
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Ok I just used my trans brake for the first time today (Well sort of cars on jack stands in the garage) I just got it back to running condition so I had to try it :)
Anyway question is I have 3200-3400 stall and when the boost comes up on the brake the eng went right to 9-10lbs of boost and 4000 RPM! Is this normal?? or is my trans/converter broken already??

Now I have never used a brake before and maybe this is a lame question but I just want to make sure all is ok before I go using this set up :)

Thanks for your help and info in advance
 
Derek,
That is pretty normal.
What converter do you have again?
Thanks, Brian
 
Its a pats performance I think damn I cant even remeber lol
Just know its been stalling at 3100-3200 on the foot brake :) It is a lock up also.
Thanks brian :)
 
Converter Stall Speed

Is rated at 0 psi of boost. All bets are off when boost is applied.
 
Just as long as your not "on the Converter "

Too long. No more than 10 sec max.
 
Ah cool so stage and wait till Im about ready to go set it and build boost quick launch and go dont set on the brake for a long time.

what about staging and locking the brake then waiting till the other guy stages if he hasnt already?? OK Not OK??

Im guessing 10 sec total from time of lock to time of launch???

Just want to do it right like I said never had or used one before and not in any way do I want to brake the thing first time out,:eek:
 
Ah cool so stage and wait till Im about ready to go set it and build boost quick launch and go dont set on the brake for a long time.

what about staging and locking the brake then waiting till the other guy stages if he hasnt already?? OK Not OK??

Im guessing 10 sec total from time of lock to time of launch???

Just want to do it right like I said never had or used one before and not in any way do I want to brake the thing first time out,:eek:

Derek,
When the car is set on the brake, you build heat quickly. Just try and keep time "raging" the converter to a minimum. With the converter you have, boost will come up quick, real quick.
Getting in the beams first on test & tune day is not that important.
Learn your car, and you will not have any issues getting it out on the brake.
When you are on the brakes, beginning to build boost, do not just mash the gas. If you do (depending on your tune) you may just make the car rich, then it will spool slowly. Feather it down, and you will probably see better results. Try it a few times will you are out tuning it, you will get it without any issues. Just be sure while you are out flogging the crap out of the car, to drive around a bit and get the heat out of the fluid. AND, use a good cooler.
Brian
 
What cooler do you like for a T-brake equipped car? bar plate with fan?

Fans are not a bad idea.
I like the Long (brand name) bar and plate. It is the biggest one they make, and comes in around $100.
Comes with 1/2 NPT inlets which we install a 1/2 NPT to -6 adapter, then plumb the system for -6 lines.

Brian
 
Derek,
When the car is set on the brake, you build heat quickly. Just try and keep time "raging" the converter to a minimum. With the converter you have, boost will come up quick, real quick.
Getting in the beams first on test & tune day is not that important.
Learn your car, and you will not have any issues getting it out on the brake.
When you are on the brakes, beginning to build boost, do not just mash the gas. If you do (depending on your tune) you may just make the car rich, then it will spool slowly. Feather it down, and you will probably see better results. Try it a few times will you are out tuning it, you will get it without any issues. Just be sure while you are out flogging the crap out of the car, to drive around a bit and get the heat out of the fluid. AND, use a good cooler.
Brian

Thanks brian I have a long style cooler and am adding a fan to it before spring just having a hard time mounting it with the Front mount in there not much room :(
Thanks again
Derek
 
if the engine is not modified to go beyond 5200 rpms its advisable to tighten the converter.too much converter reduces the amount of power and energy used to move the car as well as slow it down due to loss of hydraulic fluid coupling efficiency
 
Motor revs to around 5,600 and has a 206/206 cam in it has never nosed over so I think the 3,200 is fine works great with the te65 on it to :)
 
On the foot brake its 3000-3200 depending how much boost it will hold on the line.
Thats why I asked if it was ok or not.
So your sayin its not then so that contridicts what was said above no me lost agian :(
 
leaving at4000 to 4200 rpms with that combo will not yield max performance and et in my opinion.if it goes right up to 4000 on the brake itll go higher when you bump the shifter and go.
 
So the converter is broken??
Im flippin lost now big time :(

I just figured when you let it go it would drop the rpm do to load
 
I have 10in fans available

for $20 plus shipping, curved blade, reversable, procomp brand.
thanks
cruzn57
 
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