te60
- Thread starter Velon
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UNDER-PRESSURE
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- Joined
- Jul 16, 2006
- Messages
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What octane do you plan on running? Stock engine & intercooler?
my engine is bored 30 over, v2front mount, te60, 60 inj, ported irons, tranny, had a ta49, car went 11.5 @ 118 @ 22lbs, now with a te60, 60lbinj car runs lean under high boost with turbo tweak 110 race chip, got good fuel at WOT, I've heard a te60 doesn't need a double pumper, just wondering about everyone else with similar mods.thanks
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 2,897
I currently run this setup, Precision 6031RE (TE-60R) with standard actuator and RJC bleeder valve, PTE stock location IC, MAF pipe with K&N cone filter, valve cover breathers, PVC check valve, Terry Houston 3" downpipe with dump, into 2 3/4" dual exhaust with Welded Ultraflow mufflers, 60# Mototron injectors, Turbo Tweak race chip (27*/ 25* base) single Walbro 340 pump with hot wire kit, Adj FP Reg, stock t-body and upper plenum with RJC power plate, Kirban plug wires, Autolite #23s at .032 gap, Modern Musclecar Volt Blaster (old school but brand new and couldn't pass it up for $50.00) Coan trans with Coan 10" l/u 3000 stall, B&M tranny cooler, no stock trans cooler, Griffin aluminum radiator with 160* stat and stock fan. (Never gets over 170* even during hot driving conditions) stock rear end with posi and 3.42s, dual air bags, large rear sway bar, El Cheepo Gabriel rear shocks, no front sway bar (H&R Parts rear lower control arms waiting to be installed) Scanmaster 2.1, Autometer Boost, Fuel Press, Oil Press gauges, all body bushings, under hood braces and currently one lower body brace. (Gotta rebend the other one) 27x10.5 MT ET Street bias ply tires on stock T wheels, driveshaft loop, 205/75/15 BFG Traction TAs up front. Oh yeah, almost forgot, car weight with driver at BG '07 3810#. 
Very simple combo.
So far, my best times are as follows,
Best 60ft 1.65
Best 1/8th mile ET 7.46
Best 1/8th mile MPH 93.20
Best 1/4 mile ET that my Hot Shoe driver Dave Fiscus has run 11.72
Best 1/4 mile ET that I've driven her too 11.75
Best 1/4 MPH 115.41
I currently don't have enough brakes (vacuum brake conversion setup) to be able to foot brake more than 6psi before pushing, and yes, I've got all 4 of the soft long rear brake shoes, S-10 rear wheel cylinders, new front brake pads and Russell SS front brake lines. I am suspecting that I have might have a problem with the master cylinder, as even with repeated bleeding attempts, I still don't have good boost holding ability. I'm contemplating changing the whole booster and master cylinder out to a newer style, as well as installing a new brake prop valve I have sitting here. It's frustrating.
My best 60ft was achieved this past Saturday night with a E-brake launch on 11psi. Just like the good ole days. The best 1/8th and 1/4 increments have been achieved while running pure C-16, fuel pressure set at 44psi static, timing in 1st & 2nd at 27.7*, 3rd & 4th timing at 27.5* and boost set at 29psi. I have never seen more than 2 degrees of knock retard with this tune, and on that one 2 degree KR pass, I mistakenly locked the converter up too soon and it knocked. (I typically lock it up when she shifts into 3rd) Typically, my recall numbers are in the .750 - .780 O2 range with Knock retard normally no more than 0.7*. I also normally add between 12% to 14% fuel under WOT (depending on ambient air conditions) and the most 1st gear WOT fuel I have pulled, has been -14.8%. I have no doubt that this turbo, with a few more bolt ons, as well as in a lighter car (3450-3600# with driver), has 11 flat to 10.90 capabilities. There have been a lot of people who have run this turbo into the low 11's without too much hassle. Even tho it is older technology as far as the compressor wheel and turbine wheel are concerned, it gets the job done just fine.
Velon,
If you are running lean with your TT chip, have you already maxed out the fuel settings by adjusting them all the way up to 152 setting? If so, have you verified that your fuel pressure under WOT is 1:1? (1psi of boost = 1psi of fuel pressure increase, Ex: 43psi static fuel pressure + 25psi of boost = a steady 68psi of fuel pressure) If you do not have this pressure under WOT, you have a fuel delivery problem. You could possibly have either a clogged fuel filter, or possibly a collapsed fuel sock on the bottom of the pump. Have you verified your fuel pump voltage at the tank? Did you have more fuel added to your chip when you went from a TA-49 to a TE-60? This is exactly what I did as far as changing turbos, however, I was seeing lean conditions when I first started running my car before Bowling Green, and I was thinking that I needed to have my chip modified to have more Injector Duty Cycle added as I was seeing lean conditions myself at only 24psi. It wasn't until I checked my static fuel pressure and discovered that it was too low that I found the problem. Duhh my mistake. It was set at 39psi static, so I turned it up to 44psi static and the lean conditions completely and immediately went away on the next pass. I knew at Bowling Green that I was going to turn up the boost, so I went ahead and changed the fuel filter just to be safe. I preach it so often, that I finally took my own advice. Since I have done that, I now have plenty of fuel, especially with higher voltage provided by the volt blaster. The TE-60 turbo, whether it be journal bearing or dual ball bearing, does not need a double pumper. The 60# Mototron injectors are plenty, let me repeat, plenty big enough to support a TE-60. The 60# Mototrons are perfectly matched all the way up to a PT67 turbo. However, I do believe a PT67 on a seriously built 109 setup should have either double pumpers, or at a bare minimum an alky kit with one hot wired 340, as just one 340 pump would only be good for around 650 flywheel hp. This would be at around 24-25psi of boost on a 6776S turbo.
I would recommend you check the things I mentioned above, especially your static fuel pressure, condition of the fuel filter and your voltage.
Gotta get out there and fix my brakes, install these H&R bars and an RJC Racing billet aluminum crank pulley.
Hope some of this helps, and sorry so long.
Patrick
Very simple combo. So far, my best times are as follows,
Best 60ft 1.65
Best 1/8th mile ET 7.46
Best 1/8th mile MPH 93.20
Best 1/4 mile ET that my Hot Shoe driver Dave Fiscus has run 11.72
Best 1/4 mile ET that I've driven her too 11.75
Best 1/4 MPH 115.41
I currently don't have enough brakes (vacuum brake conversion setup) to be able to foot brake more than 6psi before pushing, and yes, I've got all 4 of the soft long rear brake shoes, S-10 rear wheel cylinders, new front brake pads and Russell SS front brake lines. I am suspecting that I have might have a problem with the master cylinder, as even with repeated bleeding attempts, I still don't have good boost holding ability. I'm contemplating changing the whole booster and master cylinder out to a newer style, as well as installing a new brake prop valve I have sitting here. It's frustrating.
My best 60ft was achieved this past Saturday night with a E-brake launch on 11psi. Just like the good ole days. The best 1/8th and 1/4 increments have been achieved while running pure C-16, fuel pressure set at 44psi static, timing in 1st & 2nd at 27.7*, 3rd & 4th timing at 27.5* and boost set at 29psi. I have never seen more than 2 degrees of knock retard with this tune, and on that one 2 degree KR pass, I mistakenly locked the converter up too soon and it knocked. (I typically lock it up when she shifts into 3rd) Typically, my recall numbers are in the .750 - .780 O2 range with Knock retard normally no more than 0.7*. I also normally add between 12% to 14% fuel under WOT (depending on ambient air conditions) and the most 1st gear WOT fuel I have pulled, has been -14.8%. I have no doubt that this turbo, with a few more bolt ons, as well as in a lighter car (3450-3600# with driver), has 11 flat to 10.90 capabilities. There have been a lot of people who have run this turbo into the low 11's without too much hassle. Even tho it is older technology as far as the compressor wheel and turbine wheel are concerned, it gets the job done just fine.
Velon,
If you are running lean with your TT chip, have you already maxed out the fuel settings by adjusting them all the way up to 152 setting? If so, have you verified that your fuel pressure under WOT is 1:1? (1psi of boost = 1psi of fuel pressure increase, Ex: 43psi static fuel pressure + 25psi of boost = a steady 68psi of fuel pressure) If you do not have this pressure under WOT, you have a fuel delivery problem. You could possibly have either a clogged fuel filter, or possibly a collapsed fuel sock on the bottom of the pump. Have you verified your fuel pump voltage at the tank? Did you have more fuel added to your chip when you went from a TA-49 to a TE-60? This is exactly what I did as far as changing turbos, however, I was seeing lean conditions when I first started running my car before Bowling Green, and I was thinking that I needed to have my chip modified to have more Injector Duty Cycle added as I was seeing lean conditions myself at only 24psi. It wasn't until I checked my static fuel pressure and discovered that it was too low that I found the problem. Duhh
my mistake. It was set at 39psi static, so I turned it up to 44psi static and the lean conditions completely and immediately went away on the next pass. I knew at Bowling Green that I was going to turn up the boost, so I went ahead and changed the fuel filter just to be safe. I preach it so often, that I finally took my own advice. Since I have done that, I now have plenty of fuel, especially with higher voltage provided by the volt blaster. The TE-60 turbo, whether it be journal bearing or dual ball bearing, does not need a double pumper. The 60# Mototron injectors are plenty, let me repeat, plenty big enough to support a TE-60. The 60# Mototrons are perfectly matched all the way up to a PT67 turbo. However, I do believe a PT67 on a seriously built 109 setup should have either double pumpers, or at a bare minimum an alky kit with one hot wired 340, as just one 340 pump would only be good for around 650 flywheel hp. This would be at around 24-25psi of boost on a 6776S turbo. I would recommend you check the things I mentioned above, especially your static fuel pressure, condition of the fuel filter and your voltage.
Gotta get out there and fix my brakes, install these H&R bars and an RJC Racing billet aluminum crank pulley.
Hope some of this helps, and sorry so long.
Patrick
thanks for the reply, I guess we have about the same setup. I did have a caspers volt booster on to add to my fuel delivery but at night time, if you got on it hard, the headlights would dim. I have added some fuel in the chip(about 2% I believe) and it seems to help. I just want to be able to run up to 25lbs on the single pump and have a low 11 sec streetcar.
