temp keeps creeping up from 180 fresh rebuild

[esm]

fresh rebuild --- engine has 30 miles on it -- it will run for 20 minutes at 180 then creep up to 200 then to 225 ----any info or help ---

 

[Fast4Ward]

mine is no fresh engine but after i beat on it for a bit i wait for that "creeping up of temp" to start happening...lol....mine needs a head gasket....its pushing bubbles into the overflow.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

When you start the car up cold, leave the rad cap off and check to make sure the water in the rad is flowing at a good pace. I assume you have a fairly new rad, new water pump...and the fan is coming on.

 

[esm]

radiator was already in car ---water pump was on old engine ---

 

[esm]

and yes the fans are coming on ---- engine was rebuild due to a engine noise
so all internals are new

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Personally, when I install a new engine, I add a new water pump, thermostat, and install a new rad or have the old one recored. A few extra bucks goes a long way in regards to engine longevity.

 

[esm]

there are no bubble in the res and it take a while to get up to the 200 range--the oil looks good and car is running fine --- should i retorque the heads!

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Bad radiator??
Bad Water pump??
Air pocket in the system??

 

[esm]

tomorrrow morning im going to bleed system with cap off hope i do have a air
pocket ---- how can i tell if radiator is bad!

 

[novaderrik]

does it cool down if you drive it?
it might just be an airflow issue. if all the proper aiur dams aren't in place, then you could just be recycling the same hot air thru the core over and over.

 

[esm]

keeps creeping as i go

 

[Just a Six??]

does it cool down if you drive it?
it might just be an airflow issue. if all the proper aiur dams aren't in place, then you could just be recycling the same hot air thru the core over and over.

As mentioned, make sure the factory rad flaps to direct the air are in place that sit behind the grill.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Stat opening all the way? Take it out and test it. Or, buy a new 1 and test it B4 U put it in.
Lower hose collapsing at elevated engine speed?
Belt tensioner hitting and not maintaining tension= wp slowing down.
Tune up is OK?? Fuel psi good?
Brakes dragging?
Some datalogging would/could help ID the problem...
Gauge is accurate?
Exh plugged?
Vac leaks?
Low batt volts?

 

[esm]

i have alot of checking to do this morning -- lucky im on vaca

 

[esm]

ok no vacuum leaks - fuel pressure is good - replaced thermostat -checked
gage --- coolant looked like itwas flowing in radiator !!

 

[turbo nasty]

Get a turkey baster/whatever and take some of the fluid out of the radiator to where you can see the flues in the radiator.

How do they look? Crud on them at all? If so time for a new/get that one rodded if copper brass

While the fluid level is down start car and leave the cap off. Wait until fluid temps have stabilized and tstat is fully opened. Of course be careful of the hot fluid/etc.

Rev the engine and look at the the flues in the radiator, the fluid level will drop as it revs and you should seem the fluid shooting out of the flues equally and with some force.

If they are not the same flow on each row then its clogged up a lil. Reduction in flow could also be h20 pump being weak

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Is the catalytic convertor plugged? How old is the rad? Is it overheating idling in the driveway...or when driving...or both?

 

[esm]

no cat -- its overheating whendriving -- i let it idle for 30 minutes in the garage to bleed system and didnt go over 180 ---

 

[Dabigguy]

Try bringing the RPMs up in the driveway. Hold it at 1500 rpm for a while to see what happens to the temps and take a look at the lower hose. It may be sucking closed at higher PRM.

 

[esm]

and if it is ---- water pump bad!