Think this might work?

[turbov6joe]

I read somewhere that the HR Parts & Stuff polly motor mounts for the TTA raises the height of the motor in the engine bay. I'm wondering if using these motor mounts will allow enough clearance for a RJC block girdle while retaining the OE "K" member? Anyone know exactly how much these mounts raise the motor? I can't imagine that the block girdle needs all that much additional space to clear. I would love to install a girdle next time I have the motor out....

 

[89ICBM]

Originally posted by turbov6joe
I read somewhere that the HR Parts & Stuff polly motor mounts for the TTA raises the height of the motor in the engine bay. I'm wondering if using these motor mounts will allow enough clearance for a RJC block girdle while retaining the OE "K" member? Anyone know exactly how much these mounts raise the motor? I can't imagine that the block girdle needs all that much additional space to clear. I would love to install a girdle next time I have the motor out....

They do raise the motor. I can't tell you how high but, the vacuum block has left an impression in my hood insulator.

 

[trading t/a]

I remember reading something like 1/2 in. not to long ago. I mentioned this a while ago. It may be possible to cut the oil pan take out 1/2 in. or so and have it rewelded with a custom pickup.

I would think you're asking for truble with the mounts. It may sit alright for a while but what happens if it sags? Then the oil pan will hit the kmember possible pushing it up into the swinging counterweights of the crankshaft causing it to give you a really bad headache and an empty wallet. Any fabbers here think it's possible?

 

[turbov6joe]

According to RJC I would need at least an additonal 3/4" to make it work...1/2" won't geter done Why do the TTA's have to be SO difficult some times??? I had a girdle on my last car and routinely spun it to 6000+ rpm with no problems....damn good piece of security!

 

[89ICBM]

Originally posted by turbov6joe
According to RJC I would need at least an additonal 3/4" to make it work...1/2" won't geter done Why do the TTA's have to be SO difficult some times??? I had a girdle on my last car and routinely spun it to 6000+ rpm with no problems....damn good piece of security!

There is an alternative. John's Performance carries the billet steel bearing caps which are nise pieces. I understand that some folks just use the 2 center caps but I went with all four.

 

[turbov6joe]

I'm not 100% convinced the steel main caps are all that. In my old car I had the two centers warp so bad they looked like magnets when pulled off. The 2 bolt mains are not cutting it IMO, that's why I opted for a girdle with the 2 steel centers....no mo problems with caps walking or driving over the crank!

 

[mark b]

I agree a girdle is probably best, but what about the new Eagle steel crank, steel caps and ARP studs for a bottom combo?

 

[Race Jace]

Actually this just might work. I am going to investivgate this at the nats this year since there are not any TTA's around here locally. A distributor of mine said one of his customers has a girdle on his TTA. I am going to talk to him and see exactly how he got it in there. maybe it was nothing more than adding the mounts.

Those guys with TTAs exactly how much room is there between the crossmember and the oil pan in stock config?

 

[turbov6joe]

RJC,
I'm not too certain about the distance, but I'll try to get some measurements here pretty quick.....I'm right in the middle of a few LARGE projects at home before heading out to BG, so it might be at BG that I get them to ya. If ya want, I'll track you down in BG and put the car up on ramps for ya to take a gook looksee at what we have going on under there. I'd be willing to bet that a few TTA owners would jump on a TTA specific girdle! I know I'd buy one and put it away untill I pull the motor back out....and with my luck I'm sure that will be sooner then later