This is getting really annoying...

[d0n_3d]

OK...I replaced my driver side header with a poston's because my stock one cracked severely...before I was getting a code 44 and ses light on EVERY TIME my car would idle for 60 seconds warmed up...also the car would drop to open loop instead of closed loop...

so then when i tap the gas the car goes back into closed loop and the ses light goes away...my blm and integrator are always at around 130-150 and so i figured my stock injectors were bad...i got new 50's now and STILL got the code 44 and same situation...

so i figured it was the header crack...changed the header and I STILL GET THE FRICKING CODE!!! i have gone through 3 o2 sensors ranging from the oem ac delco to a heated o2 sensor...i still get the code 44 regardless of a new o2 sensor...i've tried different fuel pressures and chips...still nothing...i have the idle values set perfectly with iac counts between 25-40 and tps at .42

i also have tried different maf sensors...i had the oem sensor, tomco sensor, and now the ls1 maf sensor and translator and it still doesn't matter...still get code 44

i have OFFICIALLY run out of ideas on this problem...there can't possibly be any other probably causes of such an error unless i have a MASSIVE vacuum leak somewhere but i don't hear any hissing anywhere nor can i see where i have any leaks...everything is tight and stuff...how exactly do i verify i have a vacuum leak somewhere? or maybe i just need to run some GM top engine cleaner and clean my motor out with it since i have never done it...i bet i have so much carbon buildup in my motor...think maybe that is the cause???

 

[don86T]

code 44

Don,

If you are using a check valve instead of a pcv valve change to a delco PCV valve and your problem should go away.

Don

 

[d0n_3d]

i am indeed running a check valve in the pcv setup...i didn't think that would cause a problem? i can't remember if my car coded a 44 before i added that thing though...i will give it a try...thanks

 

[turbo buicks]

don_3d, im right behind you. i mean im getting the same thing out of my car. not sure if its a code 44 (no SM) but its exactly like you describe. im trying 50's first, then like you i will probably do headers then ill do whatever if i cant figure it out BTW i have the correct delco pcv valve and it still does it but my cause could be something different.

 

[d0n_3d]

Re: code 44

Originally posted by don86T
Don,

If you are using a check valve instead of a pcv valve change to a delco PCV valve and your problem should go away.

Don

wow man you nailed it perfectly! i decided to remove my pcv check valve and i let the car idle a long time numerous times and no more engine light or a code 44!!! thank you very much...anyone who has this same problem check to see if you have a pcv check valve and get rid of that damn thing...i should have never even bought it

 

[GNX]

Did you mean that you were using a check valve in place of a GM pcv valve? In other words, only one valve (check valve) in the system?

I have a GM PCV AND a check valve in my setup. I thought you had to run the GM PCV regardless...I didn't think that you could run a check valve IN PLACE OF a GM pcv.

Comments????

 

[don86T]

Some venders sell a brass check valve that is supposed to replace your PCV valve (for about 20 bucks). My car had one in it when I bought it.

After fixing all pre-turbo exhaust leaks and checking for vacuum leaks the car still idled like it had a vacuum leak. So for 5 bucks I changed to a delco PCV valve and the problem went away.

At least fixing the exhaust leaks helped spoolup some, so my time wasn't wasted.

I don't know how an inline check valve would effect idle. It may draw too little vacuum if the check valve has alot of spring tension.

Don

 

[turbo buicks]

d0n_3d, glad you fixed your problem. since i have a GM pcv my problem is probably a header or injectors which will be fixed soon with 50's. Right?

 

[d0n_3d]

for you guys who were asking about my check valve...no i used both the ac delco pcv valve and then the inline check valve on top of that with a hose in between them...so yes i ran both at the same time and got the code 44...i just took out the check valve and all is well in buick land again...i really don't know why i even bought that thing...it has absolutely no purpose really...so it relieves crankcase pressure a little bit so you don't blow out your rear main seal...uhhh i ran my car for 75k miles without a check valve and never experienced major oil leaks from the rear main seal...so obviously there isn't that much of a difference in crankcase pressure...oh well live and learn i guess

 

[TURBOV6]

This might sound silly....

But did you reset the ECM? Or disconnect the battery when you did these changes? Just a thought

 

[d0n_3d]

Re: This might sound silly....

Originally posted by TurboV6
But did you reset the ECM? Or disconnect the battery when you did these changes? Just a thought

no...why should i reset my ecm for something that is not even controlled by the ecm?

 

[gofstbuick]

no...why should i reset my ecm for something that is not even controlled by the ecm?

Because code 44 is still stored in history until you reset the ecm or proceed through a code clearing procedure.

 

[TURBOV6]

we all do sometimes forget the most simplest things

4. To clear the codes, shut the ignition "OFF" and remove the ECM supply voltage for 10 seconds. This is the orange wire and connector located behind the battery. Re-connecting this wire will cause the ECM to reset which clears the Malfunction Codes.


If the codes are not cleared manually, they will be cleared by the ECM after 50 engine starts with no malfunctions

CODE 44

Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.

The conditions for setting this code are:

no Code 33 or Code 34 (MAF Error) present, and
the O2 sensor voltage remains below 250 mVolts, and
the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
the above conditions exist for more than 50 seconds.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM

 

[d0n_3d]

Re: we all do sometimes forget the most simplest things

Originally posted by TurboV6
Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM

1. been through 3 different o2 sensors...did the same thing including a brand new heated one

2. did it with stock injectors...did it with brand new 50's

3. i ran many different tanks of full with same problem...should be no water in the fuel

4. changed cranked ds header...only exhaust leak i found...still shot me a code 44

5. messed with very low fuel pressures...very HIGH pressures...tried different chips...still got the same thing

6. maf sensor is a ls1 with translator but still did it with the delco maf sensor and the tomco sensor...so 3 different mafs and still a code 44 even with GPS at 5 to 7 at idle

7. THIS is where the pcv check valve comes into play...i know i didnt have any vacuum leaks because i had plenty of vacuum...i think the pcv check valve was a restriction to that vaccum line thus throwing me the code 44...got rid of the inline check valve and haven't seen a code 44 since...

8. again tried numerous chips for stock injectors and 50's...

soooo...basically if you have the same problem as me...get rid of that stupid inline check valve if all of the other conditions have been checked and no problems...

 

[Tom87GN]

interesting....

I have had a check valve inline with the Delco PCV for years on my GN without problems. I guess that just goes to show you, everybody's car is different in some way.

Congrats on the fix, Don! Where were you this weekend? Didn't see you at the Midwest Buick Challenge.

 

[d0n_3d]

oh i was there friday night...decided not to show my face anymore after that because i ran like complete hell...i ran exactly one second slower than with my STOCK setup...i just need an entire day of test and tune and i will have 11's before i know it...hopefully

 

[granitestategn]

Hey, whatever works!

I've got the correct AC PCV valve AND the brass check valve on my car and haven't seen any codes, yet. If the check valve was bad, then wouldn't you run rich instead of lean? If it were stuck open then it would act like a piece of hose and the PCV would just do its thing. If it were stuck closed, it would prevent the PCV from doing it's job. Then you would run like Red's Hot Air. (No PCV)I would think that the PCV valve limits the flow because it's metered, right? Am I missing something? Does this make sense or am I all wet? I don't mean to argue with success, just asking the question so I can learn. Glad it's running good for ya.

 

[TurboDave]

Re: Re: code 44

Originally posted by d0n_3d
wow man you nailed it perfectly! i decided to remove my pcv check valve and i let the car idle a long time numerous times and no more engine light or a code 44!!! thank you very much...anyone who has this same problem check to see if you have a pcv check valve and get rid of that damn thing...i should have never even bought it

Like I haven't been preaching that for the last 10 years !!!

Got tired of preaching about it for some time. Everytime I'd bring up the "why nots" to running PCV check valves in place of the PCV, the chech valve nazi's would jump right down my throat.

 

[TurboDave]

Re: Hey, whatever works!

Originally posted by granitestategn
I've got the correct AC PCV valve AND the brass check valve on my car and haven't seen any codes, yet. If the check valve was bad, then wouldn't you run rich instead of lean? If it were stuck open then it would act like a piece of hose and the PCV would just do its thing. If it were stuck closed, it would prevent the PCV from doing it's job. Then you would run like Red's Hot Air. (No PCV)I would think that the PCV valve limits the flow because it's metered, right? Am I missing something? Does this make sense or am I all wet? I don't mean to argue with success, just asking the question so I can learn. Glad it's running good for ya.

The people that are running into problems are those that are running the check vavle in place of the PCV, NOT the ones that use both.

Running the check valve only is nothing more than a huge vacuum leak

The PCV is a metered device. Put the wrong one in, you got the same problems. Don't run one at all, more serious problems.