This is what I've done, What am I over looking?

[Amelio]

Ok So I still have a WOT issue....the car was running great no problems. It has a problem at WOT but only at 15psi or more, I have turned the boost down and no problems so it is not an rpm issue my guess is it is blowing out the spark under increased cylinder pressure.

Basically at WOT and only 15psi or more the car spits, bucks, and pops.....Zero knock.

I have confirmed my fuel is good both with pressure gauge and getting .770-.815 mv at WOT when going into condition.

This is what I have done please suggest any other places to look. Thanks!

At first the car would fall on it's face at WOT then I put on a spare coil pack and module (originally running a Type II) Now the car just spits bucks. Basically changed the symptom but still has a problem.

I tore into the wire harness and looked over every wire and ground, found my main ground wire to the battery burnt and corroded, replaced it....still did not fix issue. Found a broken ground on back of head, repaired still no dice. Ohmed out my spare coil pack-it's good....ohmed out my plug wires-good...replaced my plugs AC-r42ts.... My Cam sensor is good and tight and my crank sensor looks good also. I have triple checked all inter cooler hoses, no leaks, my maf readings on scan master look good.

I have looked every where I can think of that would cause this problem but have not found the solution. Is there anything you see that I may have missed?????

The only thing left to do that i can think of is buy a new ignition module since my spare has been sitting in my shed for a few years and I can not say for 100% that it is good, the last time I used it, it was fine but that was some time ago. Other than that I am stumped

ideas please!

 

[pacecarta]

caspers ignition simulator is the best way to test the coil pack module , can also use it to check spark function through wires .

other than that
cam sensor tight but is it set correctly at 25ATDC on the compression stroke.. not 180 out
, and check the clearances at the crank sensor , check the ring for contact
did the balancer bolt come loose ..220lbft on that bolt

and used directscans are cheap and they work with old laptops that ar even cheaper , time to start logging with the combo you have

 

[Amelio]

thanks for the quick reply, yes i agree a Caspers tool and direct scan would be the way to go but money is real tight at the moment. I have just been keeping the boost low until I can find the problem.

Yes the Cam sensor is set correctly and tight also the cranks sensor clearance is good and crank bolt is tight. This problem started after the car sat for 2 weeks just after getting back from the track...it ran good 11.54 @20psi clean pass so I know my tune was good and all other setting were right.

 

[Rodney87GN]

How's the TPS? Getting correct volts at WOT? Is the TPS volts stable at WOT? One more thing I wouldn't rule out is the connections at the ECM. If there's corrosion at the pins you'll get some erratic readings on your scanmaster.

For example on my car, with the engine idling I can move the wire harness just slightly at the ECM and the O2 volts will drop to 399-403 mV (not getting a good ground at the ECM).

Just a couple weeks ago I was getting erratic TPS readings at idle, from .42 to .91 volts! Trying to accelerate over 5 psi the car would stumble because of the crappy connection at the ECM. Since it's nearly impossible to clean all the corrosion off the ECM pins I just ordered a reman'd one from NOS4GN.

Just something else to consider....

 

[KL Mallender]

Possible low charging voltage? under WOT conditions and with all the electronics voltage minimums start getting critical, just a thought, good luck.

Kevin.

 

[LOT]

my bet

spark plug wires--ohming them means nothing--you can't simulate the load.

 

[Amelio]

Thanks for the reply's guys!!!!! yes I have good TPS readings at idle and WOT (testing key on engine off) I also have a good charging system at idle 13.5volts and I have a voltage booster, I actually checked the voltage at the fuel pum when I thought I had a fule problem and with the voltage booster activated I was getting over 14 volts at the pump so I know that is good.

I also agree about the wires, you are correct I can not determine how they act under a load.

My next step will be a new module so i can rule that out in case my spare went south sitting in the shed. I can also put some wires on it since the current set is about 8 years old.

Thanks again I will keep plugging away at this thing!

 

[TurboDave]

Where are you measuring that 13.5v? If you're only getting 13.5 at the back of the alternator that's bad. You should see 14.2 on a good charging alternator.

 

[mtocrs1]

What are your plugs gapped at?

 

[Amelio]

Where are you measuring that 13.5v? If you're only getting 13.5 at the back of the alternator that's bad. You should see 14.2 on a good charging alternator.

That was at the the fuel pump, thats what I first checked when i was thinking I had a fuel issue.

I will check at the back of the alternator to make sure I have at least 14.2.

Thanks!

 

[Amelio]

What are your plugs gapped at?

Plugs are at .032

 

[mtocrs1]

Tighten up the plug gap to .025 just to see if it makes a difference.