Thrasher and Boost?
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Thanks Scott. How much should it pull out? I like the chip so far. It idles Great and with the bleeder valve I can get about 15 lbs in third and no knock , I think I'm going to hookup my solenoid so I can get more out of first and second. Unfortunately I have to wait a while, I smoked my tranny last night
Yeah, I guess a little info would help. I got the 92-30-k2.0. I'm the one with the odd 32.5 lb injectors. I'm not too sure what spring is in the wastegate or the adjustment on the rod. I do know if I shut the bleeder all the way I get about 11.5 - 12 lbs of boost if that helps you any.
Scott, somethings wrong with my setup then.. it's absolutely mandatory that I have the bleeder valve to keep the boost down.
Without the valve, and just off the solenoid, it boosted up to around 20 psi, and stayed around 19 all the way through 2nd, and before third I heard it pinging so I got off the gas. Mine's not going down through higher gears.
This past friday at the track, I had the valve keeping it around 16-17 psi. It would spool up to 17 psi in first, and STAY there all the way through third gear. I love the way the car idles, and it really runs strong. I just dont understand why my boost situation is so out of whack from everyone elses. I dont have an adjustable wg-actuator. Stock actuator and rod. I'm baffled again, now that I'm reading that it's supposed to lower the boost in higher gears.
Without the valve, and just off the solenoid, it boosted up to around 20 psi, and stayed around 19 all the way through 2nd, and before third I heard it pinging so I got off the gas. Mine's not going down through higher gears.
This past friday at the track, I had the valve keeping it around 16-17 psi. It would spool up to 17 psi in first, and STAY there all the way through third gear. I love the way the car idles, and it really runs strong. I just dont understand why my boost situation is so out of whack from everyone elses. I dont have an adjustable wg-actuator. Stock actuator and rod. I'm baffled again, now that I'm reading that it's supposed to lower the boost in higher gears.
granitestategn
Gettin' there
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2002
- Messages
- 317
Matt,
I would highly recommend that you make your wastegate actuator adjustable. You can find the instructions on gnttype.org. It's really easy. If you don't want to mess with it, just buy one. Most of the vendors sell them. That way you can turn down your boost a little and let the chip take out some more boost in third gear with the solenoid. It sounds to me that your bleeder valve is controlling boost before the chip and the solenoid have a chance to. Do you have a scan tool? What are your O2's at WOT? How much knock retard? I believe the Thrasher only pulls out boost in third gear (and OD). It sound like you have too much boost to start with. The other thing you might try to test this is to put some race gas or xylene in the tank and see what happens to your boost in third gear. Just make sure you have PLENTY of octane and a scan tool.
I would highly recommend that you make your wastegate actuator adjustable. You can find the instructions on gnttype.org. It's really easy. If you don't want to mess with it, just buy one. Most of the vendors sell them. That way you can turn down your boost a little and let the chip take out some more boost in third gear with the solenoid. It sounds to me that your bleeder valve is controlling boost before the chip and the solenoid have a chance to. Do you have a scan tool? What are your O2's at WOT? How much knock retard? I believe the Thrasher only pulls out boost in third gear (and OD). It sound like you have too much boost to start with. The other thing you might try to test this is to put some race gas or xylene in the tank and see what happens to your boost in third gear. Just make sure you have PLENTY of octane and a scan tool.
I was thinking of doing that test. (High octane and leaving the solenoid hooked up.) It's going to have to wait until spring now.
The valve is just regulating the max boost right now. Scott said the chip boosts up to 19 psi, which is good, but too high for pump gas, so I have to turn it down anyway. At the track last week, I played with the valve and kept it just right. I was running 17 psi through first gear, and it pretty much stayed there the whole run. So even with the valve on the out port, if the solenoid lowers the boost, it could still drop below 17 psi, or whatever I have the valve set at. Unless the lowest the boost drops is 16 pounds or so, and I'm just not seeing it because thats all I'm running in the first place.
Here's an example of what I mean. These boost numbers are just numbers. Not using any actual stats. Say for example I open the valve and allow up to 18 psi, due to me letting the solenoid vent more pressure from getting to the actuator. I nail it, and it would boost up to 18 psi, and say its supposed to lower the boost in 2nd gear to about 16. So when the trans shifts into 2nd, the solenoid should still cut it down to 16. The valve has no effect, except on the max. It's just overboost protection. Takes the place of an adjustable wastegate for the time being.
Next track season, I'll hopefully have a few things fixed and upgraded, so I'll be taking it to the track and hooking up a scantool to see whats going on.
I'm sure its working right now. It probably lowers boost in 3rd a OD to around 16 or 17 psi, and thats all I'm running anyway in 1st and 2nd, so I dont see any reduction. Was just curious if it should drop in 2nd gear.
The valve is just regulating the max boost right now. Scott said the chip boosts up to 19 psi, which is good, but too high for pump gas, so I have to turn it down anyway. At the track last week, I played with the valve and kept it just right. I was running 17 psi through first gear, and it pretty much stayed there the whole run. So even with the valve on the out port, if the solenoid lowers the boost, it could still drop below 17 psi, or whatever I have the valve set at. Unless the lowest the boost drops is 16 pounds or so, and I'm just not seeing it because thats all I'm running in the first place.
Here's an example of what I mean. These boost numbers are just numbers. Not using any actual stats. Say for example I open the valve and allow up to 18 psi, due to me letting the solenoid vent more pressure from getting to the actuator. I nail it, and it would boost up to 18 psi, and say its supposed to lower the boost in 2nd gear to about 16. So when the trans shifts into 2nd, the solenoid should still cut it down to 16. The valve has no effect, except on the max. It's just overboost protection. Takes the place of an adjustable wastegate for the time being.
Next track season, I'll hopefully have a few things fixed and upgraded, so I'll be taking it to the track and hooking up a scantool to see whats going on.
I'm sure its working right now. It probably lowers boost in 3rd a OD to around 16 or 17 psi, and thats all I'm running anyway in 1st and 2nd, so I dont see any reduction. Was just curious if it should drop in 2nd gear.
granitestategn
Gettin' there
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2002
- Messages
- 317
Matt,
I think I understand how you have your bleeder set up. In your earlier post you mentioned that your boost went to 20 psi then stayed at about 19 through second with the bleeder closed. If I remember correctly, my boost drops about 2 lbs when I hit 3rd. On your car, assuming it behaves about the same, it would drop from about 19 in 1st and 2nd to about 17 psi in 3rd & OD without the bleeder valve in the system. If you have your bleeder set at 17, it probably is limiting your boost in 1st and 2nd and the solenoid may be keeping it at 17 in 3rd and OD. Looking at your list of mods, the improvements you have made to the exhaust system and induction side have reduced restictions to the point where the unmodified stock wastegate set-up is controlling the boost at a higher level than your fuel octane can tolerate.
I think I understand how you have your bleeder set up. In your earlier post you mentioned that your boost went to 20 psi then stayed at about 19 through second with the bleeder closed. If I remember correctly, my boost drops about 2 lbs when I hit 3rd. On your car, assuming it behaves about the same, it would drop from about 19 in 1st and 2nd to about 17 psi in 3rd & OD without the bleeder valve in the system. If you have your bleeder set at 17, it probably is limiting your boost in 1st and 2nd and the solenoid may be keeping it at 17 in 3rd and OD. Looking at your list of mods, the improvements you have made to the exhaust system and induction side have reduced restictions to the point where the unmodified stock wastegate set-up is controlling the boost at a higher level than your fuel octane can tolerate.
Sorry, in the first post I meant it went to 20 psi and stuck at around 19 psi with the boost hose just connected to the solenoid as normal. (Meaning NO bleeder valve.. wasnt hooked up, so no restriction at all.. solenoid only.)
You're probably right about the induction & exhaust upgrades have outdone the stock wastegate actuator. I'm not entirely sure what the BONE stock boost levels were for these cars, but I'm guessing around 13-14 psi. Well.. my car with the stock chip and only the mods in my sig, and everything set up as stock, boosted around 15-16 psi max, on the street. So it should be flowing a bit better then stock.
I'm also thinking of going with a Hueffman's big-mouth cold air kit. Knock those MAT temps down a little. Right now its sucking in hot, under-hood air.
You're probably right about the induction & exhaust upgrades have outdone the stock wastegate actuator. I'm not entirely sure what the BONE stock boost levels were for these cars, but I'm guessing around 13-14 psi. Well.. my car with the stock chip and only the mods in my sig, and everything set up as stock, boosted around 15-16 psi max, on the street. So it should be flowing a bit better then stock.
I'm also thinking of going with a Hueffman's big-mouth cold air kit. Knock those MAT temps down a little. Right now its sucking in hot, under-hood air.
