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Tick Tick Tick..Your ears required

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Maybe from both...Just check it out and rule that out. Look closely as it only takes a few cracks to make the racket.
Like I said look from the bolts out to the hoes that are randomly around the flexplate
 
Did you ever find a Source for this?? I have the EXACT same noise..and I've noticed a LOT of TR's with the same noise over the years...
 
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If the sound appears to be coming from the cam sensor or timing cover area. Some of that may be normal when using steel timing gears,That was the reason GM used nylon & plastic orginally.Also check to see if the reluctor blades on the dampener aren't coming in contact with the lower part of the front cover.Some careful grinding may be nessesary.Another idea to try is place a screw driver blade between the cam sensor & cover with the engine running & very gently pry against the base of the cam sensor being careful not to break the plastic cover & see if that changes the ticking sound. I have reduced or cured that noise in the past by simply doing that. Another issue is deeper or h/duty oil pump gears put more load or may cause a chatter that resonates up through the cam sensor,Especially if the shaft to houseing clearence is worn or excessive. By the way In my opinion shimming the end clearance out of the cam sensor isn't a good idea as it forces the oil pump gears into the oil filter housing & tears it up. Good luck with that, Lou
 
Thanks Lou, but this noise I have is coming from the Torque Converter area,
and ONLY after it's Completly warmed up, like the orig. question. And I've checked out the cam sensor, etc...Besides this is an Orig. 6000mi
car that is Mint, also the Female Orig owner I bought it from was older, AND the cars a Peg Leg from the factory so I KNOW it was never abused....
 
I Recon I Will Join The Club Also Mines Not So Much Ticking More Like A Mild Knock In The Same Location, I Couldve Swore It Was The Torque Conv. All Bolts Are Tight It Sounds A Little Deeper Though In The Middle Of The Oil Pan Straight Up From The Block Like The Crank Shaft Or ROD Bearing I Put Thicker Oil In It 20/50 It Quited Down A Whole Lot But Is Still There Im Gonna See If I Can Get Away With A Bottom End Build Maybe THE Builder Went A Little Too Loose On My Clearances, I Dont Know My Oil Psi Use To Be
80psi Start Up
60psi Cruise
20 Hot Idle
Built A Year And A Couple Of Months Ago, In The Last Couple Of Months Its Gradually Gone Down To
75psi Start Up
30 At Cruise
15 Psi At Hot Idle I Thought It Was The Weather & Temp Change
Or The Engine Was Finally Getting Broke In Its Been A Little Over A Yr. With 3000 Miles But A Lot Of Them Are Track Runs So I May Be A Little Hard On A Car That Was Suppose To My Daily Driver With A Once In Awhile Track Time Pass (i Guess It Was Additive:d )
Any Way I Can Go Down The Road I Can Hear This Chattering Sound On The Driver Side , Chattering My Dash At A Certain Rpm Say 20 To35mph Then Once The Torque Convertor Locks Up It Quiets Down But Keep An Eye On The Scantool I Can See A .9 To 1.4 Deg. Of Knock So Now Im Sayin Maybe Im Trying To Throw A Rod So Ive Parked It Now. But Next Week Im Gonna Give It One More Shot To Rule It Out Im Gonna Drop The Trans & Torque Convertor & Fly Wheel Off The Block & Try Cranking It One More Time To See If I Still Hear It, Just To Rule That Out.
 
Un-bolt the torque converter and slide it back out of the crank and with the car up on stands in the front (so the converter stays out of the crank) start it up and listen for the noise. If the noise goes away, then R&R the converter. If it is still there, remove the engine oil pan and find out what happened. This is assuming you have checked EVRYTHING else. I.E. motor mount, tranny mount, down pipe hitting frame, cracked header/cross-over, (start engine up and slide under car -on jack stands-and try to pin piont noise), bad thrust bearing (try to slide the crank forward and backward in the block with a BIG screw diver or pry bar, it should only move .010" MAX!), cam sensor/cam shaft clearance issues, (if you have an aftermarket timing cover, this can be a problem), Keebler elves in your converter sheild making crackers, wrist pin issues, roller rockers hitting the valve cover/rocker pedistal, Interruptor ring on crank balancer hitting the timeing cover or is bent and hitting the sensor, cam/lifter issues, steering lock-out rod hitting the driver side header (VERY common), loose accessory braket on cylinder head, loose AC compressor/alternator/PS pump, loose bell housing bolts, loose coil pack mount, I think I covered most of the problems I have encountered with the Turbo Buicks over 19 years ('cept the Keebler elf one, as I am still trying to catch them guys! I want to put one in a little scuba suit and have it inside the engine during a few 1/4 mile passes to tell me if my pushrods are flexing and how much oil is REALLY being sucked up the PCV valve at WOT!:biggrin: ) Good luck! Oh Yea! one more thing. Take a 3ft length of vacuum hose and stick one end in your ear and then start moving the other end around your engine to isolate the noise. Or yu can but a set of these and your friends will call you "DOC"! http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/graphics/00000001/otc-4491.gif
 
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Thanks Lou, but this noise I have is coming from the Torque Converter area,
and ONLY after it's Completely warmed up, like the orig. question. And I've checked out the cam sensor, etc...Besides this is an Orig. 6000mi
car that is Mint, also the Female Orig owner I bought it from was older, AND the cars a Peg Leg from the factory so I KNOW it was never abused....
In regards to a converter noise, Years ago I ran into a situation similar to your complaint. It turned out that the factory threaded converter boss's weren't quite deep enough & although the converter bolts felt tight they were bottom out against the converter shell & thus not able to draw it tight enough against the flywheel just enough so the converter would make a noise only upon cold start up in AM. Once it warmed up it would not act up till the next morning finally found the problem by chance when I wound up buying the car & taking it apart to install a new engine.
 
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