Timing chain and coolant in oil
- Thread starter BJM
- Start date
Why don't you just pull the pan...that way you can clean it out
and can clean or replace the oil pickup screen plus don't have to worry about any antifreeze dripping in there...plus it makes it a lot easier to remove/replace the front cover without the pan in the way...
and can clean or replace the oil pickup screen plus don't have to worry about any antifreeze dripping in there...plus it makes it a lot easier to remove/replace the front cover without the pan in the way...
The cover attaches to the block and water has to go through it to get to/from the H2O pump. Thus, some water can run down into the pan when the cover is pulled away from the block. Drain the oil and save it. You can leave the filter on. The pan will have to be loosened in order for its gasket not to interfere with reinstallation so go ahead and do that. Remove the front bolts and slide a piece of cardboard between the cover/block and the pan in a fashion to route water and old scraped gasket material away. Some just stuff a towel in there. Use the old oil to run through for a few minutes after the job is complete then change it after running the engine for a few minutes. Some prefer to prime the oil pump (clockwise) before reinstalling the cam sensor.
Your question is an excellent one considering the pan will hold around 1/4 quart even after drained.
Good luck, Joel
Your question is an excellent one considering the pan will hold around 1/4 quart even after drained.
Good luck, Joel
Thanks for the info so far.
I am not totally clear yet. Do I have to lower the pan at all? Does the front cover hook into the pan at all in which case I can see why people suggest dropping the pan.
One other thing I don't understand is what the oil pump pickup attaches to, some part of the block and then the oil goes into the front cover to the pump? How hard is it to drop the pan right off?
I am not totally clear yet. Do I have to lower the pan at all? Does the front cover hook into the pan at all in which case I can see why people suggest dropping the pan.
One other thing I don't understand is what the oil pump pickup attaches to, some part of the block and then the oil goes into the front cover to the pump? How hard is it to drop the pan right off?
Yes you have to at least lower the pan. The oil pump bolts to the timing cover which bolts to the block which the pickup tube is attached to which the pickup screen is attached. To drop the pan you must remove the crossover pipe and flexplate cover. You may have to rotate the engine over for the front of it to clear the #1 counterweight. Really isn't that difficult. A trick to replacing the gasket is to use dental floss to tie some of the holes to the pan then remove it after bolts are installed in all the other holes. Otherwise the gasket is difficult to hold in place.
Torquing the crank bolt to 219 by myself with no air impact tool was a strain. I recommend assistance or the air tool.
Good luck, Joel
Steve Wood
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2001
One additional tip, if using the factory pan gasket....I forget the torque, but do not exceed it on the bolts....took me three pan gaskets one day to learn that....gasket cuts very easily from excess bolt tightning and the leak will let you know it. 
You didn't say how many miles are on the car or whether the timing chain had ever been changed but if it is the original and has some miles on it there's going to be crap on the oil pickup screen...whether it be material from the rope seals or pieces of nylon it would be better to remove the pan and either replace the oil pickup or at least clean the screen...the pickup is attached to the block right next to the pan rail at the #2 main...when you pull the pan the baffle in the pan will try to get hung up on the pickup...just take it slow and it will come out...you may have to reach into the pan after dropping a little and push on the baffle a little to get around the pickup...should slide towards back of car and out...one other tip...put some layers of duct tape on the bottom of the flywheel...the back of the pan is going to scrape it as it is removed.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
If your car is an '86-7, you can remove the coolant from the block by taking out the block drain plugs on both sides. Without doing this, or if it is an earlier block w/o drain plugs, you MUST remove the pan as water will remain in the bottom of the pan with the oil that does not drain.
I forgot to say my car is an 87 and should be all original inside, it has 55000 miles on it. I hate taking out oil pans but I guess I will plan on it then. It will give me a chance to check out the pickup. Is the pick up cheap to buy new?
The reason I am doing all this is because the front seal drools everywhere. Is it a rope seal like the rear?
So far I will be changing the seal, water pump, timining chain, tensioner, and probably oil pickup. Am I missing anything?
Great tips so far.
The reason I am doing all this is because the front seal drools everywhere. Is it a rope seal like the rear?
So far I will be changing the seal, water pump, timining chain, tensioner, and probably oil pickup. Am I missing anything?
Great tips so far.
You won't need to change the pickup screen. Just wipe it clean. Watch the little valve on it. If its opened, the oil in the tube and pump will run out causing the pump to lose its prime (not to mention the mess on the garage floor and additional hair grease). The only other issue you may consider is the rear main. Does it leak? If so, change it using Ultra Black RTV in the side slots. Thus, you'll have rubber front and rear seals. If you're a real perfectionist, thermal wrap the crossover while its off the car and paint it with hightemp black/clearcoat for protection. This will aid in keeping the oil cool. Might as well do everything and right while the car's up and you're under there. Once done, forget about it because you'll never need to do it again! Best of luck, Joel
I have to disagree about not having to change the pickup...he may be able to just clean the crap off it but if it's really clogged he will have to remove it to clean it...as long as it's being removed might as well replace it...I believe it's only $13-15...if it is removed just make sure to use blue locktite and torque to specs...also I wouldn't worry about the valve on the pickup and losing the oil prime...he's most likely going to lose the prime when he removes the front cover...it's a good idea to prime the engine anyways before firing up when doing timing chain...front cover...etc...what I do also is whether I remove the pickup or not is take a piece of graden hose and blow air from the front oil passage to the pickup to clean it out...any water or antifreeze that may have gotten in there will be cleaned out...plus it allows you to blow some of the crap off the screen if the pickup isn't removed...
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
There is nothing really that goes bad on the pickup and screen just needs a good cleaning.
Mine only needed wiping off with some solvent.
If it's real dirty and blocked you can replace it cheaply or remove it and solvent tank it or clean it thoroughly with spray solvent.
You should be able to tell how bad it is with a visual inspection of the pan and screen.
Mine only needed wiping off with some solvent.
If it's real dirty and blocked you can replace it cheaply or remove it and solvent tank it or clean it thoroughly with spray solvent.
You should be able to tell how bad it is with a visual inspection of the pan and screen.
