Timing Chain time ...
- Thread starter NY87GN
- Start date
Find you a stock GM timing set. Yes, they're plastic coated POS's but they run quiet, don't set off the knock sensor, and have a proven track record of 150,000 miles or 20+ years, whichever comes first. They also don't eat up your timing cover when they fail (ask me how I know 
)
While the cover is off, drop the pan and get the timing chain bits out of the oil pickup. Replace the pickup with a Melling/Sealed Power unit that doesn't have a trap door. And get a new tentioner while you're at the fast food parts house.
Take the timing cover apart and do all my oiling mods. Change the water pump because it's cheap and it's off. And get a roller cam button for a '95 Buick Park Ave 3800.
Then beat on it for 20 years and do it again.
)While the cover is off, drop the pan and get the timing chain bits out of the oil pickup. Replace the pickup with a Melling/Sealed Power unit that doesn't have a trap door. And get a new tentioner while you're at the fast food parts house.
Take the timing cover apart and do all my oiling mods. Change the water pump because it's cheap and it's off. And get a roller cam button for a '95 Buick Park Ave 3800.
Then beat on it for 20 years and do it again.
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/tchain.html
You can get most of the parts from NAPA for a reasonable price:
New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675
$4.84
Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_019197467
$15.14
Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
$9.99
replace the oil pickup with Melling type with gasket, and use red loc-tite on oil pickup bolts
You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made, just make sure it's clean on both ends
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
Called them for verification of timing chain replacement
Others may chime in but I used red loc-tite on the Cam bolts
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.
I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653
And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
If for any reason you feel uncertain or have some doubts, ask many questions before proceeding to something you don't know of and then regrets doing it.
Take your time have patience, and the most important of doing this replacement is make sure you have oil pressure before starting engine!!!!
You can get most of the parts from NAPA for a reasonable price:
New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675
$4.84
Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_019197467
$15.14
Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
$9.99
replace the oil pickup with Melling type with gasket, and use red loc-tite on oil pickup bolts
You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made, just make sure it's clean on both ends
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
Called them for verification of timing chain replacement
Others may chime in but I used red loc-tite on the Cam bolts
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.
I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653
And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
If for any reason you feel uncertain or have some doubts, ask many questions before proceeding to something you don't know of and then regrets doing it.
Take your time have patience, and the most important of doing this replacement is make sure you have oil pressure before starting engine!!!!
Find you a stock GM timing set. Yes, they're plastic coated POS's but they run quiet, don't set off the knock sensor, and have a proven track record of 150,000 miles or 20+ years, whichever comes first. They also don't eat up your timing cover when they fail (ask me how I know
While the cover is off, drop the pan and get the timing chain bits out of the oil pickup. Replace the pickup with a Melling/Sealed Power unit that doesn't have a trap door. And get a new tentioner while you're at the fast food parts house.
Take the timing cover apart and do all my oiling mods. Change the water pump because it's cheap and it's off. And get a roller cam button for a '95 Buick Park Ave 3800.
Then beat on it for 20 years and do it again.
Is there a certain hp level you should consider an aftermarket/double roller timing chain set?
1fastcobra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
Dont go back with a stock chain
There junk
If there are still oe sets out there
There old stock parts dry and brittle.
Go with a true dbl roller chain $60 Edelbrock
And a roller cam button
$10 ( ask for a 89 se tta )
Wont give false knock
If your worried.
Old trick put Teflon tape on the knock sensor threads
And electrical tape on the main part of the sensor ( a few raps )
Also help to eliminate knock on shift.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
There junk
If there are still oe sets out there
There old stock parts dry and brittle.
Go with a true dbl roller chain $60 Edelbrock
And a roller cam button
$10 ( ask for a 89 se tta )
Wont give false knock
If your worried.
Old trick put Teflon tape on the knock sensor threads
And electrical tape on the main part of the sensor ( a few raps )
Also help to eliminate knock on shift.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
1fastcobra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2012
Been doin it for 17 yrs
Haven't spit one yet !!!
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Haven't spit one yet !!!
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I'm no guru but I think Earl is bang on here. When I did my rear main seal on my stock unopened motor with over 100k on it, there wasn't a hint of timing gear material. NOTHING! Not in the pan, pick up or anywhere else. This was one of the items on my replacement list.......but it got scratched off in a hurry
hawkfan
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2012
I found the same thing. There was no material in the pan or on the pickup screen at 120k miles so I put off replacing the chain for now.
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
Understand one thing, not every TR runs the same, moves the same or response the same to it's owners.
Myself with 90,000+ miles replaced the timing chain; nothing was wrong, ran great like most stock TR, never on track, but after reading many board members finding of the nearly half the cam sprocket teeth missing is when I decided to replaced mine.
Me personally, one tooth missing is more than enough for the replacement.
Myself with 90,000+ miles replaced the timing chain; nothing was wrong, ran great like most stock TR, never on track, but after reading many board members finding of the nearly half the cam sprocket teeth missing is when I decided to replaced mine.
Me personally, one tooth missing is more than enough for the replacement.
Attachments
You also know how to watch your tune. Do you really think a newb needs to be riding around with a mal adjusted knock sensor?
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
WOW, that looks like it should have been replace before hitting 6 digit mark
How bad was the oil pickup tube?
ITSAV6
It's my Granny's car!
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2001
My stock chain was garbage around 90k. Parts of teeth were broken off and half we're cracked and starting too peel away from the metal of the gear. DO NOT get the stock replacement set from parts stores. Put 30k on it and it had stretched. Do like Earl said and get the GM or a good dbl roller.
I called Nick Micale at Arizona GN and he highly recommended (and sold me) the TA performance billet silent timing set. It uses a link chain with billet gears and a tensioner. I couldn't be happier with it. It's a little more expensive than roller at $115 but that's nothing with these cars. Also when I removed my original chain and gears at just over 50k miles it was all still in good shape except the tensioner spring was weak and causing a ticking sound. Nice and quiet now.
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
http://arizonagn.com/
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B
http://arizonagn.com/
