Timing set, water pump & springs, anything I'm missing?

[Boostrules]

Winter project doing the timing set with original GM style complete set including nylon coated cam gear, timing chain, water pump (from Kirbans), cam button & spring tensioner. While I'm at it will replace the valve springs with comp cams 980-12 & felpro intake manifold gaskets. Do I need to do anything else while in there? I've read that the rocker retainer buttons should/could be replaced but have not found a source to buy them from. Because of this site, it's given me the balls to undertake this adventure with the great information provided. Any opinions and advice from the pros is welcome. Thanks in advance to all.

 

[earlbrown]

All the vacuum lines, check valves if they fail the 'blow test', do the free oil mods I wrote about while the cover is off, melling oil pickup without the trap door while the pan is down (drill those two bolts for safety wire while you're there), and before you take the car apart do a light brake torque with the hood up and see if your DS motor mount has given up the ghost. Oh, and a magnetic oil drain plug. Every car needs on of those.

I also have a big box of those rocker buttons if you need a set too.

 

[michael evans]

Maybe replace the drive belt since you will have that off.

 

[Boostrules]

All the vacuum lines, check valves if they fail the 'blow test', do the free oil mods I wrote about while the cover is off, melling oil pickup without the trap door while the pan is down (drill those two bolts for safety wire while you're there), and before you take the car apart do a light brake torque with the hood up and see if your DS motor mount has given up the ghost. Oh, and a magnetic oil drain plug. Every car needs on of those.

I also have a big box of those rocker buttons if you need a set too.

Will do the oil mods you did a write up for. I'll also check all vacuum lines, test check valves & replace the lines going to the turbo to be safe. If the old cam gear is not damaged can I skip dropping the oil pan? I did the motor mounts about 2 years ago but will check with the brake torque test. Will also replace the oil drain plug with magnetic one & get a new drive belt as well. I'll reach out to you for those rocker buttons once I open her up. Thanks for the recommendations & source for rocker buttons.

 

[hensleyt]

I have a new set of LT1 springs from Kirbans Free if you want them

 

[earlbrown]

R&Ring the cover is PIA if the pan is torqued down. The only ''correct'' way to do it is to extract the dowel pins, put the cover in place and drive the pins in.

On paper, that sounds perfectly doable.... unless you bugger up a pin getting it out, then the car is dead in the water until a replacement can be found.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What Earl said....

 

[Boostrules]

I have a new set of LT1 springs from Kirbans Free if you want them

Thank you for the offer, what are they rated at as I would rather not exceed 100 lbs. I street drive her only so don't want to put too much extra pressure on the original cam.

 

[Boostrules]

R&Ring the cover is PIA if the pan is torqued down. The only ''correct'' way to do it is to extract the dowel pins, put the cover in place and drive the pins in.

On paper, that sounds perfectly doable.... unless you bugger up a pin getting it out, then the car is dead in the water until a replacement can be found.

So I guess I should drop the oil pan & do the melling oil pickup mod while in there. I can get the pan out without doing anything to lift engine to clear right?

 

[Jerryl]

The only thing I will add is regarding "springs";

If you are not going to measure the installed pressures, you will be much better off leaving the stock springs in.

 

[marleyskater420]

If you are going to do your vacuum lines, this website has great pricing on vacuum lines and they also sell these intake leak testers : http://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-leak-pressure-tester/

It is a hose that seals off the TB (you have to get the correct size) and has a air valve (like your bike tire) in it, and you can hook your compressor up to it, shoot in air into the intake and see if there is any air leaking out from any vacuum connections. I'd also recommend some soapy water sprayed on the lines, as it should cause any leaks to bubble up if they appear.

 

[hensleyt]

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/184/HEAVY-DUTY+VALVE+SPRINGS+(12)+SET+#6746.html this is what they say on there sight.I went roller and never used them.Free to anyone just trying to pay it forward.

 

[earlbrown]

So I guess I should drop the oil pan & do the melling oil pickup mod while in there. I can get the pan out without doing anything to lift engine to clear right?

Yep. Just drop the X-over pipe (and maybe the TC cover).

Sometimes you need to spin the engine so the rear counterweights swing upwards to make it easier.

 

[Boostrules]

The only thing I will add is regarding "springs";

If you are not going to measure the installed pressures, you will be much better off leaving the stock springs in.

Not sure I understand. I will be testing the old spring pressure (friend has a pressure tester) compared to the new & will replace according to strength of spring. I don't know how to test installed pressure. Why leave the 30 year old springs in when they were probably not up to par when first installed?

 

[Jerryl]

Not sure I understand. I will be testing the old spring pressure (friend has a pressure tester) compared to the new & will replace according to strength of spring. I don't know how to test installed pressure. Why leave the 30 year old springs in when they were probably not up to par when first installed?

Lets assume the current MEASURED installed height is 1.75". (Each will vary a little.)
Assume the OLD stock spring seat pressure is 75 PSI, at that same MEASURED 1.75" installed height. (Springs will also vary a little)
The new spring SPEC is 100 lbs at 1.75", and your friend measures it at 95lbs at 1.75".
So to get the 100 lbs @ 1.75", shims need to be added under spring.

Not discussing open pressures. IOW: What is the pressure on top of the cam?
Make sense?

 

[Boostrules]

Lets assume the current MEASURED installed height is 1.75". (Each will vary a little.)
Assume the OLD stock spring seat pressure is 75 PSI, at that same MEASURED 1.75" installed height. (Springs will also vary a little)
The new spring SPEC is 100 lbs at 1.75", and your friend measures it at 95lbs at 1.75".
So to get the 100 lbs @ 1.75", shims need to be added under spring.

Not discussing open pressures. IOW: What is the pressure on top of the cam?
Make sense?

I get it now. Hopefully my buddy understands the measured height (1.75) & has shims to fine tune the pressure. Thank you for clearing this up for me.

 

[Jerryl]

I get it now. Hopefully my buddy understands the measured height (1.75) & has shims to fine tune the pressure. Thank you for clearing this up for me.

To save yourself 80% of the measurement headaches, including calculating/finding shims, simply order a pre-measured spring set from Bison.
It's not worth the headaches and running around IMO. He is the only vendor I am aware off who provides this service.

 

[earlbrown]

All you have to do is measure you installed heights on all 12 valves. Then test your springs and put then in order of poundage.

With any luck, the stiffest spring on your tallest height (and vice versa) will be in spec. If not shim accordingly.

 

[Boostrules]

Thanks to all who responded for your help & advise. I feel comfortable to go ahead & hopefully complete the job without any problems. I'll let you know if I notice any difference in performance with the new springs. I'll certainly feel safer with the new timing chain in place when I get into the throttle which is why I have this car in the first place. Happy New Year to all.

 

[earlbrown]

You'll think you have a different engine when you replace the springs.

The stock springs were weak when the car was new. They're worse now.