New here ... have several projects going ... besides my 3.8. One involves usage of Del West titanium valves presently. Noticed the Buick V6 book I have lists these as recommended for most of their different types of racing "recipes". I have 3 sets of them now that need to be worked and was wondering if there are specialty houses that deal with Ti valves members here might know of. Evidently it takes a special holding fixture to cut them and particular cutting tools and methods. Mine need to be shortened and a new lock groove machined. They are 7mm.
Titanium valve grinders
- Thread starter keithnh
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TURBOELKY
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It does take a different grinding stone to cut them, if I remember correct, it is a blue stone. Any place that does performance engine work should have proper tooling to cut Ti. If you're located in Los Angeles area, I can help you with that.
I have no qualms about sending the valves to LA for modification. I'm not having any luck in the local area finding anyone who wants to deal with them ... recently been burned twice on my crankshaft from people out here and in the Midwest ... my 3rd try was going to be Marine Crankshafts in Santa Ana. Looking to lock down people I can trust who get done what I want. I have several similar projects and will continue to if I can get things done.
TURBOELKY
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I sent you a PM. If you can't find someone local to wherever you are, give me a call. Very little work is ever taken in from public, and turn around times on SOME stuff is not the fastest. Just a heads up.
Just curious what book you're reading.
If it's the Powersource book, there's really nothing in there worth basing anything on.
TURBOELKY
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The book, agreed, is aged. I believe the general consensus on the factory block was believed to be a 400hp maximum. However, the book is full of accurate block measurements and a good guide for idea clearances etc. I look through it often to double check my measurements. Nothing wrong with Ti valves, wish I could afford some! lol.
dank GN
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For high performance turbo motors I was told you would want to use inconel Or stainless because of the high cylinder temps.
Just the HP book entitled "How to Hotrod your Buick V6" copyright 1986 HP Books. First 40 pages are all engine recipes for various types of racing most using Ti valves and having rpm limits with them of up to 8800rpm. Without Ti valves the book says rpm limit drops 1000rpm in the preface to the recipes. " In the 1985 running of the Indianapolis 500 stock block turbocharged Buick v6 engines were in competition. In racing form the engine produces more than 800HP @ 8000rpm." Stock block probably referred to stock Stage 2 blocks, it didn't specify. I would like to try for 300HP with a fuel injected turbo stock block conversion and believe at that power level the stock block would not "explode". The book recipes has one listing for much lower rpm than the others with stock production block, heads cast stock pistons and stock rods and a mild Crane hydraulic cam that with turbo makes peak 400HP @ 4000rpm. Doesn't detail the turbo setup tho. The other engines mostly use Stage II stuff top end forged pistons, aluminum top end rods and forged cranks out of my price range. I have 2 231's both running, one in an 84 Cutlass and 1 in an 80 Firebird. The newer one going in an Astre wagon, both carb'd which makes sense to change to fuel injection eventually ... to me at least ... maybe turbo as well. If I blow up the first one guess I wont do it to the 2cnd 
turbobitt
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A smarter man than me once told me that there is really no sense going to a Ti exhaust valve if your going to run the same spring as the intake. There is probably more to gain running on Ti on the intake because the mass of a stainless or Inconel exhaust would be close to a Ti intake valve. But lets face it, our engines run less than 8K and most under 6.5K so why bother.
AG.
AG.
Found a place in Arvada CO that does up sets of used Nascar Ti valves and sells for 249$ a set. Not sure what price is when you supply them. Or turn-around time. My seat pressure will not be huge so I'm thinking wear on seats will not be a factor. Guess I'll try and find out. Will be using hydraulic cam and lifter setup that has an adjustment procedure like solids so will be keeping an eye on whether they may be changing in length. Actually I was just curious and building a custom engine. I like the 7mm Ti valves I have, they are lighter, obstruct the port flow less and were offered in sizes that may boost my cylinder head flow if ported appropriately. I am paying for an outfit in Idaho to do up my HD Sportster heads with brand new similar Ti valves and higher spring pressure beehive setup on my 86 1100 bathtub heads. Apparently they were used to boost rpm feasibility in Buick v6 engines in the past, so they might do the same for me if I decide to crack open my 2cnd 231.
TURBOELKY
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just be sure to have proper valve seats installed. But as mentioned by the other guys, if you're not turning the engine past 6500 rpm, Ti valves is not necessary. If you wanted to know port flow difference between Ti and stainless, I can almost guarantee there would be little to no difference. Matter of fact, if I find some 1.5 valves in Ti at the shop, I'll flow test it. There's a selection of Ti valves floating around the shop but not sure if any that small.
My first Ti engine will be a Pontiac v8 I had a crank modified for making a shorter stroke almost 455 with the stronger 400 block using a factory 428 crank and long bbc rods. 6500rpm will be my limit but I want it to be sweet and not straining there. Figure having the lightest valve-train requiring the least spring necessary to prevent float ( with some safety factor) will help valve train longevity and performance in that region. Believe it will make a noticeable difference in acceleration as well. The Ti valves I have are 2.16 intake and 1.63 exhaust replacing a 1.96 and 1.66 factory valve in 73 #46 heads. These are small valve heads for 350P which will be being ported to accommodate the new valve sizes. Max factory valve sizes on the head was 2.11+1.77. Didn't choose the smaller exhaust valve size ... it was the largest I could find ... but believe since its going out not trying to come in this may actually be a benefit if I can seat it properly in the already larger throat. I don't believe the valve material has much to do with flow ... it is the larger diameter intake size and slimmer stem I was referring to. Will be trying Ti in both intake and exhaust both with guide liners with beehive springs probably Howards figuring if they work for me I will "get used to them" and if I like them find a shop who can do them up reliably when I need to.
TURBOELKY
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Sounds like a game plan. Post pics post pics when you get it going!
First pics will be of Pontiac heads most likely , someone here might get mad Don't want Earl to get badass on me Just called place in CO and am digesting info, he did recommend Pac springs when I said Howards ... price did not seem out of my ballpark and Dave said not to worry about beating up the seats at my spring pressure. He will get my locks and retainers and insure fit as well as custom size valve length for optimum fit. Guide liners would not be available for my size so he would install new 1/2" bronze guides.
Don't want Earl to get badass on me Just called place in CO and am digesting info, he did recommend Pac springs when I said Howards ... price did not seem out of my ballpark and Dave said not to worry about beating up the seats at my spring pressure. He will get my locks and retainers and insure fit as well as custom size valve length for optimum fit. Guide liners would not be available for my size so he would install new 1/2" bronze guides.
