To downpipe, or not? That is the question

[bbb455]

I have an '87 Turbo T w/ 90,000. It has TA replacement style headers, Alky control, new Comp cam springs, Tin man CAI, hot wire, pump and reg. Other than that, its stock. Would there be any benefit in changing the stock dp? It wont go to the track, and runs about 18psi. Or would porting the neck be a better option?

 

[keith theriot]

save you money and keep the stock DP, not much gain on low boost

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

A nice 3" DP and exhaust should wake the car up a bit. Look at the RJC unit and you would be happy.


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[bbb455]

The car has a test pipe, 2.5" running through Hooker mufflers.

 

[Shawn N]

A ported/polished exhaust elbow is a much cheaper alternative to a $500 downpipe.

 

[bbb455]

I'm concidering that as well Shawn.

 

[achalmersman]

Buying a ported elbow is a waste IMOP if you want a downpipe. If your going to push it further and your going to want a DP then you have money in an elbow you could have put in a DP. Even if you don't (arguably I probably didn't NEED it) need it I really think my RJC looks sexy! With future goals / projects over the horizon I am starting to question my choice of sticking to an internal gate however.....

I guess what I am saying is you don't absolutely have to need something to want something. If you really want a DP and force yourself to "save" you will eventually buy a DP anyway, and have a ported elbow on the shelf.

 

[626gn]

See post #4 http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ported-elbow-beneficial.314414/

 

[Shawn N]

I could not agree more. We proved this in the 90's a thousand times over and it still holds true now. If you want some real gains for $500 buy some Micky T drag radials or a 10" ptc tc .

 

[V6sleeper]

Terry H or Rjc downpipe and test-pipe.. you will see more gains from loosing the cat..

 

[bbb455]

My cats have already been deleted. I don't do mods for looks, only for performance. I'm a function over form guy. I'm not taking the car to the track, and I don't want drag radials because they pick up pebbles and sling them. I'm just looking to get the most out of what I have. I appreciate the input. Thanks

 

[Shawn N]

bbb455 post what has been done to the car. I dont race either unless it's at a red light tehe. Getting a few extra horses is not to expensive in the beginning.

 

[bbb455]

It's all listed above Shawn.

 

[Shawn N]

I saw but you added the hooker exhaust and no cat later in the thread so I was wondering. Also what chip are you using with the alky and whats the boost set at? Stock inj? What pump? Do you have a scanmaster, wideband afr, good 30lb boost gauge, stock turbo, stock maf sensor?

 

[bison]

You never stated your goals only that it's mainly a street car and you run 18psi boost. Imo the $ could be spent elsewhere more effectively. Adding an aftermarket pipe will require clearance for it and operation and covering of the bypass hole needs to be verified. I've installed many pipes. I've had to alter many to work as they should have. Id spend the $ on tuning software like a powerlogger or on an intercooler if I was looking for bolt on power before I did on the pipe. Much bigger gains to be had. .


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[bbb455]

TT 5.7 chip set for 18psi, stock injectors, hot wire w/ Walbro pump (not sure which one) and reg, scanmaster, wideband af gauge, boost gauge, stock maf, Tin Man CAI, Alky inj, TA stock headers, test pipe, 2.5" dual hookers, Comp cam 80lb springs. Goal is to get the most out of the car w/o killing the motor. Not a race car, but I don't mind smoking someone from time to time. Stock intercooler

 

[Shawn N]

You need to go up to 009's 42.5lb inj at least. Have Eric burn you another chip and he will take back the old one and give you credit towards the new one. I would not go up any at all on boost until you add a bigger intercooler. PTE slic is the gold standard if you want to keep the stock location ic. RJC's are the gold standard front mount ic. Is the turbo still stock? Bison is the man for turbo upgrades. Ditch the stock creeper boost controller for a RJC boost controller and grab a power plate for stock plenum while your at it. I would invest in a biggie oil filter adapter too. If you dont have a adjustable fuel regulator buy a accufab or kirban style billet one. 43psi is a good starting point and adjust it based on the o2 millivolts and afr readings. I would also remove the coolant hoses to the throttle body and delete the egr system if it's still there. Some bilstein shocks or u/l rear control arms (umi, metco, h&r,etc) are a good upgrade also. A translator and modern maf sensor will vastly improve idle and overall drive ability. LT-1 maf sensor is 3" and will fit the neck down hose on the tin man cold air you have now. LS-1 is 3.5" and you will have to get the correct hoses to fit it in. Install one thing at a time to help troubleshoot any problems that may pop up and keep an eye on knock. Have fun and make sure those brakes are up to par!

 

[bbb455]

I have the Kirban adjustable reg and Bilstiens w/ Hotchkis 1" lowering springs. Also have the big oil filter adapter that I installed last summer. Yes, turbo is stock. Just rebuilt the rear drums last summer and installed Wilwood kit. Power master was ditched years ago. Thanks for the info Shawn. I really appreciate it.

 

[bbb455]

Whats the benefit to deleting egr and coolant hoses? Also, what about the gbody intercoolerz? http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_21_68&products_id=405

 

[Shawn N]

less hot air = more hp due to the lower intake charge. Why our cars gain a alot of hp in the winter. Ive seen cars run .7 faster in the 1/4 mile at 35 degrees vs 70 degrees with no changes. A big intercooler will set the stage for you. The tb coolant lines and egr system only add more heat to the inlet charge. I would talk to bison about a 44 or 49 turbo but get the intercooler and injectors first.