To drill or not to drill...firewall.

1987Vader

Fade to Black!
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
I am installing my system sometime soon...(2 amp set-up/dual sub kicker etc..) and wanted to know if anyone has a trick to running the big red power wire from battery back into the trunk. There was a trick I used with my IROC where I was able to effortlessly run the wire from the engine compartment to the door and then just cut into the rubber wire housing and used that to get into the car itself and behind the dash. Then I just ran all of my wires (speaker wires, aux wires, blue amp wires etc.) back into the "trunk". Now I know that the IROC was easier because of all the plastic moldings inside where I could just run and hide the wires and since the Camaro is all open, the wires ran nicely to the back due to the hatch set-up.

With the GN, I guess I gotta pull the back seats to run the wires?

Do I have to pull the carpet to hide the wires or is there another way? Can I use the metal foot runner?

Do I have to drill into the firewall to run the power wire into the car?

I appreciate any imput as to how you tackled the job...before I rip things apart that are not necessary!
:eek:
 
I run mine down the passenger frame rail. Drill 1/2" hole in rear floorboard under the back seat area as close the outside edge as possible with a rubber grommet and rtv. You want to keep that power wire away from the computer. HTH
 
Yep, run it under the car as far as possible and come in somewhere under/behind the rear seat. Easiest and safest.
 
Yep, run it under the car as far as possible and come in somewhere under/behind the rear seat. Easiest and safest.

Oh!:wink: So it is ok to have the Red Power Wire exposed under the car? I have never done that before...always had it inside. So, drill up under the car, not into the firewall?

And...I also did not know that the wire can mess with the computer. Glad I did not mess up mine in my 87 IROC.

Thanks for your Help! If you have any more...:wink:
 
Would either of you happen to be able to take a picture(s) of how you ran the wire and where you drilled the hole?

Thanks again for your time.
 
I don't have any pics but I ran the power wire over the pass. fenderwell, down under the car, through the open frame rail so it is protected and came up kind of behind the rear seat custion. There is actually a place where the sheet metal comes out almost 90 degrees to the adjacent metal. This is where I drilled the hole. It is nice because doing it there, the cable can lay flat and doesn't have to make any crazy bends as it passes through the metal. I only drill holes in the firewall as a last resort. Where do most vehicle fires start? Under the hood. The last thing I want is a direct path into the car where there is all kinds of flammable stuff. My reasoning anyway.
 
3/8" drill then a 1" or lager greenlee punch to finish the hole. :)

Line the hole with plastic material attached with 5 minute dark gray JB Weld epoxy.

What size wire are you running?

8 guage is easy inside the car and over the back seats I was able to use a snake without removing the upper cushion, but that's not hard to do either.
 
personally have done it both way (passenger and drivers side) i like doing it on the driverside better. in a cutlass the battery is on the driverside and you can run it right through the gromet in the firewall..behind the kick panel...under the door sill plate, behind the b-pillar mouldings and through the jute pad into the trunk. in a TR you would have to run it across the front first to go in the driverside gromet. in my SS the battery is on the pass side and i drilled a hole but wasnt thrilled about doing it.
 
I don't have any pics but I ran the power wire over the pass. fenderwell, down under the car, through the open frame rail so it is protected and came up kind of behind the rear seat custion. There is actually a place where the sheet metal comes out almost 90 degrees to the adjacent metal. This is where I drilled the hole. It is nice because doing it there, the cable can lay flat and doesn't have to make any crazy bends as it passes through the metal.

Does that mean the wire goes back...passes under the rear seat...makes a 180 and then goes through the sheet metal? OR...is it a complete shot back? I crawled under my car today trying to find the exact spot you were referencing and was not totally sure where it was.

If there are two ways to do something...I will usually pick the wrong way first. Want to get this one right the first time!
 
I don't remember exactly where but I do remember it is close to the transition from the horizontal to the vertical behind the rear seat cushion. I am pretty sure I ran it into the car on the pass. side and then supported the cable with zip ties behind the vertical cushion to get it to the drivers side and then into the trunk. I have since dynomated the trunk and rear seat area and put the cable under a few strips of that. Holds it in place really well. This is 4ga wire so it is pretty big. I had 8ga and it could be run almost anywhere easily.
 
3/8" drill then a 1" or lager greenlee punch to finish the hole. :)

Line the hole with plastic material attached with 5 minute dark gray JB Weld epoxy.

What size wire are you running?

8 guage is easy inside the car and over the back seats I was able to use a snake without removing the upper cushion, but that's not hard to do either.

Well, I am resurrecting my old thread...cause the weather is AWESOME this week in Illinois and I want some tunes!!! Anyways, I am still freaked about drilling a hole under my car to pop up behind/under the rear seats, just because with out 50 pictures/instructions etc..I will mess it up. So I am looking to find a way into the car. I may slice into the rubber by the door hinge that holds the door wires and get into the cab that way. I do have another question, however...where did you find the entrance into the trunk? I know I somehow snake behind the rear seats...just have not found the right spot yet. Thanks again for any help!
 
...Or do I have to just pull the back seats...if so...how? I was spoiled on my IROC...it was just one bolt per seat! Oh..never answered your question...I am running a 4ga wire.
 
If you are running 4ga wire the door rubber trick isn't going to work. The cable is large and doesn't bend all that easily. I had my original 8ga cable run into the door thingy but when I stepped up I also had to change the routing. One thing I did too was find a short length of rubber fuel line that fit snugly around the cable. I slid that on before installing the cable. Once the hole was drilled, the fuel line was slid into place to protect the cable.

The rear bottom cushion is easy to remove. You push slightly down on the cushion while pushing back at the same time. The catch is like a close ended "C" and the seat cushion has a bar that runs into it. So, you are trying to push back just far enough to get the bar through the opening of the "C". There are 2 of those. Once the bottom is out, you will need to remove the seat belt retractors with what is commonly known as a star bit. I think you need either a 45 or 50. I can't ever remember. They are actually inexpensive if you don't already own them. Once the rear seat is out things are much easier to see.
 
Thanks Erik! I could see that "C" catch but could not figure out how to get the bar to move! Will try that today. I know on the bigger "star" bolts sometimes you can use a standard screwdriver as well. Thanks for all the help!
 
I don't have any pics but I ran the power wire over the pass. fenderwell, down under the car, through the open frame rail so it is protected and came up kind of behind the rear seat custion. There is actually a place where the sheet metal comes out almost 90 degrees to the adjacent metal. This is where I drilled the hole. It is nice because doing it there, the cable can lay flat and doesn't have to make any crazy bends as it passes through the metal.

Well I am finally getting enough guts and time to rip the rear seats out and thread the power wire. I am thinking about drilling up through the hole in the cross beam that would come up right next to the "U" bracket that holds the bar spring in place for the rear seat. Is this what you did or did you go even farther back?
 
I would stay away as far as possible from the back seat workings. Too easy to snag it. Mine is drilled about 12" up the vertical portion of the rear seat and it is off-center so it isn't near the "c". Anywhere will work just be aware of what could happen because eventually it will. Choose a good loaction with that in mind and you will be fine.

As far as removing the bottom cushion, I have to literally get in the car and leverage myself between the fron and back seat. Mine is reallt tight and it takes a pretty serious push rearward to get it out. The motion becomes kind of a circle starting with pushing down and back then mostly back and then pulling up. As soon as the vein in your forward pops out you have probably pushed hard enough. It can be a little tricky the first time you attempt it but with anything the more you do it the easier it becomes:p
 
I’m surprised you guys run them under the car I ran mine with the head light harness around to the driver side and in the car through the hole for the cruz control then ran it down center of car under the center console and in to the trunk .
 
I’m surprised you guys run them under the car I ran mine with the head light harness around to the driver side and in the car through the hole for the cruz control then ran it down center of car under the center console and in to the trunk .

:eek:Oh SURRRRRRRE! NOW you chime in! That sounds like it would have been a lot easier! (would have needed a longer 4 power cord though.) Oh well...it is installed now!
 
Top