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Torqing the Heads!

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edv2

SPOOLIN' NO FOOLIN'
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
134
I blew a head gasket before Buick day.I used to have ARP Bolts,but now I am using ARP Studs!I am sticking with the same Gasket( Victor) I used last time it blew 2 years ago!When I pulled it down, I retorqued the heads and found a center bolt loose!The last time I blew it was #4 then #3, this time it was#3 with #4 going!I want to try and stop this from happening!Not showing alot of knock(very rarely .2- 5 counts when I get it)So I've heard you should torque them, back them off , then retorque them.Also torque them, run them through two heat cycles , then retorque them, but that souns like a lot of work having to take the exhaust manifolds off to retorque!Any Ideas would be greatly Appreciated!
Thanks,
Ed
 
I blew a head gasket before Buick day.I used to have ARP Bolts,but now I am using ARP Studs!I am sticking with the same Gasket( Victor) I used last time it blew 2 years ago!When I pulled it down, I retorqued the heads and found a center bolt loose!The last time I blew it was #4 then #3, this time it was#3 with #4 going!I want to try and stop this from happening!Not showing alot of knock(very rarely .2- 5 counts when I get it)So I've heard you should torque them, back them off , then retorque them.Also torque them, run them through two heat cycles , then retorque them, but that souns like a lot of work having to take the exhaust manifolds off to retorque!Any Ideas would be greatly Appreciated!
Thanks,
Ed
use felpr 9441 pt as far as retorque you dont need to
 
If the surfaces of the heads and the block are true and flat, and the bolts are torqued to the correct value, and sequence (have your torque wrench checked -if you have access to a NHRA national event, they will do it for you at the ARP booth for free.) Then the only reason the head gaskets will fail is due to detonation or you are making SERIOUS horsepower. Just because your knock sensor isn't showing knock, doesn't mean you are not detonating. The only REAL sure way to determine detonation is by reading spark plugs. Victor or Felpro head gaskets (9441) will work great for most people.
If you blew a composition head gasket (victor or 9441 felpro) then you NEED to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pump pick-up screen off. Miss this step, and you may kill a rod bearing or two.:eek:
 
Ive blown so many HG i lost count(dew to me not car). Anyway the last time i blew it, it took alot of abuse. Because i found a method on gnttype.org. It told me to torque the intake down before the heads, because the intake would pull against the heads if you did it the other way, it made since to me, and the car took alot b4 it blew 39KR, and it didnt blow then, im not proud of that, but its true.
 
I blew a head gasket before Buick day.I used to have ARP Bolts,but now I am using ARP Studs!I am sticking with the same Gasket( Victor) I used last time it blew 2 years ago!When I pulled it down, I retorqued the heads and found a center bolt loose!The last time I blew it was #4 then #3, this time it was#3 with #4 going!I want to try and stop this from happening!Not showing alot of knock(very rarely .2- 5 counts when I get it)So I've heard you should torque them, back them off , then retorque them.Also torque them, run them through two heat cycles , then retorque them, but that souns like a lot of work having to take the exhaust manifolds off to retorque!Any Ideas would be greatly Appreciated!
Thanks,
Ed
My choice is the factory HG. I locktite the studes, not sealers on the block threads. (ANS Methods) It has worked for me in the past. I let the locker set for 24 hrs before torquing the nuts, lube the washers, nuts with anti-seize. Don't back off the nuts! Last time on my retorque, no loose nuts just a minor tightening. Absolutely, if any gasket material gets into the oil pan it will plug the oil pump pickup screen. However most of the time the gasket blows to the outside not inside. Block straightness is required plus the cylinder heads. Next, are the EGR ports plugged? I would swap injectors with the front two. I flow all my injectors before installing, always? Why? Leanest are the #5 & #6 cylinders, and richest frontward. EGT temps are a much better way to find how the mixture is burning than sparkplugs. Check knock at the shift points. None is the best. Some thoughts to ponder. Gene PS. Good Tuning!
 
Thanks Guys

Thanks a lot guys!Checked the block with a straight edge, and it's fine(.001-.002)I checked the heads on a CMM at work : Driver side .0015, and Pass. side .0005!I think i'm going to use the Victor gaskets,and try torquing the intake first.I will also rotate injectors 1&3, and 2&4!No i don't have the EGR blocked off ,as i do drive the car a lot in the summer!Are you thinking it might be leaking under boost?Also I do know to clean the oil pan , pick up, and everything that has gasket material on it!the last i did it, i figured that out but thanks for letting me know!Also what about putting the GM Coolant Tablets( Cadillac Tabs) in? a few people recommended that!
Thanks,
ED
 
5 degrees of knock retard is a lot regardless of what anyone else says. .2 is nothing to worry about but sure is. Fix that problem first. If your using a stock style graphite gasket and are going under 125mph in the quarter you should not have problems. Maybe deck and heads arent flat. I dont re-torque with stock style gaskets but do with all others.
 
I mentioned the EGR Ports are a possible source for hot spots. Champion removes the EGR ports and really they aren't needed anyway. They are used to help cold starts only. Send me your email address and I'll forward the Duttweiller Torquing Technique. (ATR's old article) Coolant tabs, by all means use them. I blocked off the heater lines to prevent plugging the heater core after installing the tabs and used distilled water only with RMI 25 additive. I then flushed the engine and radiator after several hot runs. I ran only distilled water in the Summer Months. Good Luck. Gene
 
I mentioned the EGR Ports are a possible source for hot spots. Champion removes the EGR ports and really they aren't needed anyway. They are used to help cold starts only. Send me your email address and I'll forward the Duttweiller Torquing Technique. (ATR's old article) Coolant tabs, by all means use them. I blocked off the heater lines to prevent plugging the heater core after installing the tabs and used distilled water only with RMI 25 additive. I then flushed the engine and radiator after several hot runs. I ran only distilled water in the Summer Months. Good Luck. Gene

I know this is old but I am in the middle of a HG replacement and was wondering about the Duttweiller Torquing Technique. Could you post these?

TIA
 
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