Translator Questions

[84HAGN]

Hi all just got my translator and 3" Maf hooked up and the difference is night and day from the stock setup I went thru about 5 Mafs from various sources and they all read differently on my Turbo Link and ran like crap so I converted to the Translator and 3" Maf
The Question is what should the switches be set at for the best performance
They are currently set to what the instructions say Base 3 and WOT 3
Do I need to contact Eric (turbo tweak chip is installed), just wondering if anybody else is running the translator on a Hot air
Thanks

 

[84HAGN]

anybody?

 

[3point8]

Translater settings

I have a similar setup on my 85GN. I didn't set anything on it when I originally installed it a couple years ago but recently purchased a TurboTweak chip and the instructions said to change just the one switch. I can't recall whether it was the last or second last but it had to be flipped opposite to the factory setting. Did you not get a couple pages of instructions with your chip?
Mine is setup for street only no racing features if those switch settings are useful to you let me know and I will dig out my info and pass it on to you.
Peter

 

[Jerryl]

Go to the tuning link on the website below. The translator settings are listed.
http://www.turbotweak.com/

 

[tenright]

Done this both way's....1,2,3 ON 4 OFF, and 1,2 ON 3,4 OFF didn't notice much if any difference. The idea is if you have an extender chip you should set it 1,2,3 ON 4 OFF. If you don't have an extender chip it should be 1,2 ON 3,4 OFF....ok all well and good, whats an extender chip you say????

Thats why I tested it both ways, not sure if the TT chip was an extender chip. From what I understand any chip that is programable is an extender chip. But since any answers on this subject that I can find are argumentative and unclear at best.....basically pages and pages of people arguing which way is the correct way I just tried both and left it 1,2 ON 3,4 OFF....probably change that 5 or 6 times in the next couple of months though ... mount it where it's easy to access it lol....drivers fender well worked for me. BTW ON,ON,OFF,OFF is default......

Now you know why I preach that MOD to anyone with suspect MAF issues, I have said it a dozen times and read it on hundreds of posts, the reman MAF's don't work!!!!!!! The Translator and LS1 MAF is the single most effective MOD you can make to this car.......

 

[Eric Stage I]

With a TT chip, the #3 dip should be ON. That is a frequency limiter that prevents the ECM from freaking out (MAF dropout) when airflow is higher than 255 gr/sec. My chip has a MAF dropout ignore feature, so you usually won't see any difference whether the #3 switch is on or off. But to be safe, you should have it ON.

There is only one Extender chip, made by Bob Bailey. That is the only chip where #3 dip would be OFF because there is special code in the chip to understand the higher airflow and allow it to go to 512 gr/sec. "Extended" airflow capability.

Regards,
Eric

 

[tenright]

Well there ya have, from the horses mouth itself, explains why I didn't see any difference.... Thanks for the info Eric...

 

[84HAGN]

Thanks all TENRIGHT hit it on the head I could not make any sense of the #3 dip switch that was the purpose of the post i also have tried it both ways on and off and i also saw no diff. and I have to agree about the best mod anyone can do after 5 different MAFs and 5 different BLM readings at idle
(anywhere from 90 to 150 really im not kidding) with the translator currently sitting at 127 and idles and runs like a whole new car the only problem i have now is knock(sometimes it pegs the red sometime runs great with only 1 green and have elminated all false knock issues going to get some race fuel and see if it cheap fuel problems i only run 93 but who knows what your getting these days ) starting to really bug me and my turbolink is useless with my laptop pluged into a inverter and really just a tad better when on batteries
to much junk data in the stream and yes I have checked,cleaned grounds and all wires even grounded elec fans to no avail I suspect a bad cable it is a older ver 2.13 so time to save some money and get a new one till then will have to use my trusted OTC 4000e
again thanks all

 

[tenright]

84HAGN-you have an 87 ECM why are you saving for a new turbo-link cable, get a scanmaster.....at least with a scanmaster you would know if you were getting real knock.....it displays KR (knock retard) .

 

[84HAGN]

Thats true I could get a scanmaster but from what ive seen it only displays 1 line at a time with tubolink i can see all of the info at one time and record said data i dont think there is anything wrong with scanmasters i am just used to using my laptop and watching all the data (been doing it for years on the mustang below with TWEECER RT only diff is I can change all the tables and scalars with the TWEECER)
The other problem is when ever i plug my turbo link into the aldl port and start the program i can hear the engine idle up a bit but according to the program it is in normal mode not aldl so it shouldnt be doing that
I love my car but sometimes it is very frustrating when you jump on it and it runs great breaking the tires loose as soon as the boost come in and haul a$$ :biggrin: with 1 green light on the knock gauge and the 5 min later jump on it and knock gauge goes into the red and runs like crap and as jerrly says already check/changed that 2xs
Thanks again

 

[tenright]

yes scanmaster display's 1 set of #'s at a time with the exception of O2 and KR those display at the same time, but it is right in front of you and cycles with the touch of a button....really all you want is O2, KR, BLM, and INT while driving, it also records the values to read back later....nother words it has playback mode. Also I have never seen it affect anything....Personally if I already had turbo-link or in my case winadl (same thing only free) I would use both. Scanmaster to see what the car is doing as I drive, and the other to look at the whole run.....But if I had to chose one over the other scanmaster wins hands down.....

 

[84HAGN]

Good point you got me re-thinking my point of view and the Scanmaster is looking better all the time. I didnt relieze that it had a playback feature.
Maybe I will keep an eye out for a scanmaster in the for sale side till i either can afford to get a new one or find a deal on a used one.
I think i will try to get a hold of Ken M. and see if he can check out my cable and maybe fix it as I dont really need the new setup the old seems to contain enough data for what my needs are.
Hows your cars idle mine idles around 800 rpm but seems a little shakey at times but it has 18 inches of vacum and blms are at 125 to 128 .
Thanks
Again

 

[tenright]

800 or so rpm with a very slight lope....214/214 cam. It's been running pretty smooth till lately, but then again I have a bad injector......

I will always get a bit of shake because I have poly mounts. but it's not even enough to vibrate my fingers on the steering wheel.....I would say thats pretty smooth...

 

[84HAGN]

Thanks my idle is ok i guess from what ive heard theese thing never did idle really smooth. Ive been working on cars for about 20 years ford chevys you know the whole lot and (knock on wood) never lost to any problems ive come across ( well there was one Caddy that kicked my butt we had to send that puppy back to the factory it was so screwed up)
So I think i will beat this one may take a while but i WILL WIN (maybe )lol

 

[84HAGN]

Hey Jerryl did you ever get your seats re-done?

 

[Jerryl]

Hey Jerryl did you ever get your seats re-done?

Not yet. Been spending my $ on spare parts. :tongue:
Back to the thread.

Edit:
Your thread so it would be acceptable to hijack your own thread. :biggrin:

 

[84HAGN]

Damn those thread hijackers
Thanks for all the help guys