trouble at the track

[Cleaner13]

ok guys well as you know this was the last night at englishtown until March
sucks for me I guess

this was my 2nd time out and there is definitely something wrong with my car

heres my timeslip

RT .995
60' 2.297
330 5.992
1/8 8.999
MPH 81.38
1000 11.606
1/4 13.822
MPH 101.41

ok please check my sig for mods
does this time seem right or what for those mods
the car is also running using a bleeder valve and the boost was set at about 20psi, however that run was done on 16 as for some reason my boost flies up to 15 and then slowly goes to the next psi 16, 17 etc
does anyone know why it does this?

someone suggested that its probably the wastegate any ideas?

also not sure if its same topic or not , but the car sometimes turns off when I am driving
not erratic or anything
just smoothly turns off

thanks

Carl

 

[UNGN]

You are losing .7 seconds in ET from your 60 ft alone.

Put 18 psi in the nittos and 15-20 psi in a right side airbag.

Keep drag radials CLEAN. Bring a brush to the track to scrape off the crap they pick up. If they aren't picking up a ton of crap, you need to do a longer burnout.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

Cleaner13

what chip and gas were you running? you really nead to heat Nitos to get them to hook. It takes a bit of practice. Also, what PSI were they at?

 

[Cleaner13]

Nittos were 17psi
gas was 100 octane
chip is a custom one that I had made

Carl

 

[topfuel]

need stats

What injectors and turbo are you runnin?

How was the fuel system doing on that run,
any O2 or EGT data?

Any knock?

Are you leaving the starting line under boost?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to help.



Mike

 

[Sisaro]

Plug the vacum line to your EGR it may be openeing up at full throttle which means you have a bad EGR vacum controller. just trying to help

 

[Snorman]

Cleaner13,
I dunno', but your trap speeds seem a bit low for what you have.
I went 13.4@100.1 on a 1.92 60ft. last Saturday at E-town in crummy air (Cottons-93 chip, Postons base lid, 160* stat, Walbro 340 w/hotwire, convertor switch on 235/60-15 DR's).
Are you locking the convertor? Are you using a scantool? If so, what are the readings?
I picked up ~1.5mph locking the convertor.
You wanna' go to Atco next week?
S.

 

[Cleaner13]

stock injectors and turbo
O2s were 757 with 4.5 degrees of knock at the end of the run, but this was false knock cause it happened on a shift
no boosting leaving starting line

 

[Snorman]

No boost on the launch?
That's a problem right there.
Getting these things smartly off the line and getting the turbo spooled quickly is a big advantage.
I started off with 1psi, then worked up to a (measly) 3psi launch on my 13.4. I'm sure I can hold a 5-6psi launch.
Are you sure that 4.5 KR is false? If it happened at the end of the run, you should have been well into 3rd gear.
S.

 

[Cleaner13]

cant hold the boost
only like 1lb before the tires break

its false cause it happens on the 2-3 shift
at about 47mph

Carl

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by Cleaner13
its false cause it happens on the 2-3 shift
at about 47mph

That's a little low for a 2-3 shift. Should be a lot closer to 60 mph.

MOST of the time you get knock on a 2-3 shift its REAL knock. Knock on a 1-2 shift, but no knock on a 2-3 shift would more likely be false.

 

[Cleaner13]

well I have the reducer in my car with my gauge
my chip is calibrated to shift on the right speed and RPM cause it takes the reducer into account
my actual speed was a low 60 something
but the MPH shown on the scan master was 47
I know its false knock cause it never goes up any more
it has to be false cause if it was real it would of kept going up and up the faster I was going and since I trapped at 101 and there wasnt any more knock then I would say its definitely false

thanks

Carl